I picked this up like new condition, I believe it is the latest version.

My car has been apart almost 1 year, I had it altogether ready for a test spin. Went to go into reverse, won't go into the gate...WTF.

Pull everything apart looking for my bone head error, can't find anything. Out comes the shifter, stuff the stock one in...perfect!

I'm going re assemble this thing with stock shifter back in place. I really wanted to try the MGW, my season is coming to an end. Any suggestion's or experience?

 

The shifter its self has no gates for reverse.. or any gear for that matter.... All that stuff is inside the reanny. However, shift box alignment is important..

Use this post to view the alignment procedure:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ve-issues.html

BC

 

That was the very first thing I thought of & figured I had screwed up.

The stock shifter works fine.

 

I had the same issue. If you don't get the coupling bolt real tight, there will be some play in the shaft and will not let you shift into reverse.

Here's my thread.

 

Convert it to an A4!

Sorry Tuna, couldn't resist!

I'm waiting for that drive the car report!

Ron

 

Thanks for the link! I had the little sucker tight & loose checking & re checking the alignment ....no luck.

 

Little to old to row are you?

 

See if you are having trouble getting it into 1st and 3rd also...the MGW doesn't have the alignment function, but you still have to be careful where you bolt in in...the shift box has some back and forth adjustment play where it bolts to the torque tube....I bolted mine on about a 1/16th to far forward and was slipping out of the forward facing gears as a result...couldn't even get it into reverse....try moving the shift box back a tiny bit....also....reverse has a spring activation that makes it very hard to shift into reverse when the car is not started.

and finally...the MGW has NO side to side play while in nuetral...so you really have to "click" it over to the right while the car is started for reverse.

Its a really great shifter...one of the best mods hands down IMHO.

 

Thanks for tips!

I spoke with George @ MGW, very helpful. The bad news is clutch I just installed is not releasing properly

The increased leverage of the stock shifter is why it would go into reverse, the clue was shifting into reverse while idling. That is suppose to be easier, with mine it is more difficult.

 

It's the lockout solenoid if if won't even move over far enough to get to the reverse gate. Apply enough force and it will go but it won't go easy like it should.

 

I've gone over this thread and several others, I'm locked out of 6th and reverse after my install.

I've tried the install again three times now, I have followed both the instructions very carefully and the tips here about aligning the shift linkage but the car won't go into reverse. Yes the power is on while I'm trying.

I've stopped for a bit now because one of the Torx 40 bolts is now stripped from going at this so many times.

I've had MGW shifters before and never had this level of issue.

Is there anything electronic that is not activating? After the initial install, I wore down the battery and had to boost it this morning, could it have anything to do with a low battery?

I also noticed after some shop work that my map lights on the mirror don't seem to go off properly, they stay on.

I'm gonna call MGW Monday, but stuck for now.

 

Update: The shifter goes into 6th when the car is off same as every other gear in what seems like normal range of motion. As soon as the car is on, the shifter won't go into reverse or 6th at all.

I also started the car with the shifter in 6th position, once out it won`t go back in.

We`ll see what MGW says in the morning.

 

Sounds like the clutch isnt fully disengaging. Put the car on flat level ground. Trans in 1st, clutch fully depressed and rev the engine up to approx 5-6K and see if the car starts to creep forward or move.

You can also jack the rear wheels off the ground and see if you have hard driving torque on the wheels with the clutch fully depressed.

There really should not be any real driving force if everything is working correctly.

BC

 

Thanks for your reply, I'll check this out. I spoke to MGW yesterday, they offered also what they think the issue is, they seem to think it matters little where on the torque tube the lower box is mounted, using the alignment tool to center up the box, and then tightening the linkage rod to the linkage matters first, once those are lined up, you just torque down the two on the torque tube where ever they fall. They also said they seen big variances car to car. If you move the lower box after that, you end up moving the linkage rod and take it out of alignment.

They also explained to me why the shifter will hit 6th with the car off, but not with the car on, they seem to think I'm going past it for reverse, but it won't find reverse with the box mounted incorrectly.

I'll update more once I get the stripped bolt out! FML!

 

I seem to disagree on a few of those points but, heres some additional info.

EVERY shifter has a specific RANGE of stick movement. REMEMBER,,, NO shifter for a C5/C6, has any GATES inside the the shifter. Those gates are made inside the transmission. If you move the lower box ALL the way forward or aft, (while its properly bolted to the linkage rod), you will see the stick pivots in the opposite direction of the direction that the box is moved. When its properly centered, the stick is VERTICLE. If a shifter has shift stops, make sure that the stops are adjusted all the way OUT (not limiting shifter movement)

Improperly adjusted shift stops could LIMIT any additional movement in that stick direction and effect the gears in that gate direction.

Some shifters have SHIFT STOPS (like my KIRBAN Shifter). The T-56 does not require the use of a shift stop. That being said, I set my shifter up properly and I do use the shift stops.

If your stick is vertical when its in the 3rd/N/4th gate and the transmission is in N gear, theres ZERO further adjustment necessary. If you can move the stick side to side to the 1st - 2nd & 5th - 6th gate position, you will or should have ABSOLUTY NO issues moving the stick further thru the REVERSE gate. Even if it fails to open electrically, you can use a little extra force and enter it.

When you can shift into all the trans gear positions when the engine is OFF, and can NOT enter a gear when the engine is running, you have a clutch issue or depending on what gear it is, an input shaft issue or possibly a mechanical issues with the shifting parts of that specific gear.

There are specific mechanical gear issues inside the transmission that can cause specific gear selection issues (ie synchro, blocker ring, shift dog key issues, that will show up when the trans is dynamic vs static.

Before you get tooo deep into mechanical repairs, check the clutch master cyl fluid level, bleed the clutch and see if you have car creep when the engine is revved.

Bill

 

I changed my clutch fluid right before I attempted the shifter change. Could that be a cause? If it is, then maybe i need to cycle the clutch many times to make sure it's correct and/or no air pockets?

Anyway, I'll update, but I won't know again until I've removed the bolt and re-attempted the shifter install. I will also do the car creep test as you suggested.

 

Bill,

He is not conveying my point i think so thats why your are refuting it...

What i said was that the alignment tool WILL make the shift rod vertical and level left to right. But if you take the alignment tool out and THEN move the box front to back to try to center the 2 torque tube bolts then you will actually make the shifter NOT centered anymore. What i meant by there are vairances from car to car is that on some when aligned properly they may look centered on the torque tube but on some they can be way off center visually. Thats why both the OEM and the MGW lower box have oval bolt holes for the torque tube mounting.

George

 

I thought there was something not correct... You have a QUALITY product and never seen any thing go wrong with it other than improper installation issues!

I'm glad you jumped in and gave the correct version of the procedure.

Bill

 

Nobody said the product isn't top quality? I told him on the phone that as well directly. I also have purchased and installed one myself before and was happy with it, which is why I purchased another one. In my current case though, after carefully following the instructions, watching the videos, my car couldn't find reverse. I re-installed it three times, being ever more careful each time and it still would NOT go in reverse. Now that we've established I clearly must have made a mistake three times, the result is I still don't have the product installed.

After so many attempts, and making sure the pinch bolt was super tight so as not to cause any slight movement, I rounded off the 8mm torx head. I also rounded off one of the torque tube bolts, but that one came out with a relief cut and a turbo socket. The pinch bolt however has kicked my *** for three days because after a relief cut and trying to flat head it back out, the head of the bolt snapped off. Wouldn't come out with an easy out, so I've had to drill it out.

Before I go ahead and re-install the shifter, I need one of these pinch clamps:





If someone has an extra one or knows where I can get one overnighted to me, I'd appreciate it, otherwise I'll have to have the machine shop tap some new threads. I've learned a LOT about drill bits this week. I went through a few Ti coated and then DeWalt's none of which worked. Finally an Irwin black oxide for steel worked much better. I've never been backed into such a headache like this installing what is normally such a simple kit. Again, I'm not complaining about the kit, I'm just saying what happened to me.

GM's love affair with Torx head bolts could end anytime now IMO, they are very easy to round off. Just sayin'.

 

Vettenuts.net

Their phone number is on the website.