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Ok I need some help. I Just postponed my appointment for my torque converter and cooler install because I am not going to pay for this job and have something fail shortly down the line. Basically I am having vibrations allot at idle and the tranny and diff have been inspected, serviced, and dubbed good. From what I have read the torque tube is the likely culprit and needs rebuilt. Obviously I want it done while this job is happening to save tons of money down the line.
I do not know what all is involved. I know about the 10mm 6 shooters that need replaced and have heard pilot bearings mentioned, but that there are more than one? And what bushings and bearings are there to replace?
I need a no-**** list of serviceable parts in the torque tube. RPM-transmission sells a kit that I trust, but is expensive and I would like to price out separate parts on my own. They give no info on the kit, just that its the new 6 shooters, and "all three bearings" (which look nothing like pilot bearings).
I am very confused on this. Sorry for the long thread!!!
They give no info on the kit, just that its the new 6 shooters, and "all three bearings" (which look nothing like pilot bearings).
Did you at least try giving them a call to discuss? I found everyone at RPM very helpful, courteous, and informative. I consulted with them numerous times when I upgraded my TT and differential.
Thanks guys, I will call around to some places. Just looking to get as much info as possible here before anything. Are pilot bearings even in Autos? Or is that a Manual only thing like a throw-out bearing?
Thanks guys, I will call around to some places. Just looking to get as much info as possible here before anything. Are pilot bearings even in Autos? Or is that a Manual only thing like a throw-out bearing?
IIRC: There are two bearings on one end of the TT and one on the other. You'll need 2 of the bushings. The DSS bushings are expensive but will probably outlast the car even with serious HP and sticky tires.
Excellent suggestion Kevin with Rick Kim. NukeC5, don't even bother soliciting this forum. Just go straight to the experts for advice, yes..you may pay a little more, but you will get EXACTLY what you need.
IIRC: There are two bearings on one end of the TT and one on the other. You'll need 2 of the bushings. The DSS bushings are expensive but will probably outlast the car even with serious HP and sticky tires.
Sorry for being slow, but is what I'm calling a 6 shooter the same as a DSS bushing? And are the three bearings what I am calling the pilot bearings? I know I am the one with improper terminology, its just what I know them as so far.
And am I corrects that base C5's have the 10mm setup?
Excellent suggestion Kevin with Rick Kim. NukeC5, don't even bother soliciting this forum. Just go straight to the experts for advice, yes..you may pay a little more, but you will get EXACTLY what you need.
You are right, I will call them. I just didnt want to sound like a completely clueless numb-nut when I call and end up buying $1,000 worth of parts!
You are right, I will call them. I just didnt want to sound like a completely clueless numb-nut when I call and end up buying $1,000 worth of parts!
Rick or RPM are not going to gouge you, and they are very patient to discuss what you need, and more importantly, what you don't need. Sure, they are in business to make money...but they also care about their reputations.
Sorry for being slow, but is what I'm calling a 6 shooter the same as a DSS bushing? And are the three bearings what I am calling the pilot bearings? I know I am the one with improper terminology, its just what I know them as so far.
And am I corrects that base C5's have the 10mm setup?
The pilot bearing slips into the end of the crank. The throwout bearing is on the slave cylinder for the clutch. Doesn't sound like you need that.
The 6 shooter and the DSS are competing items. I just have more faith in the Drive Shaft Shops products. Both are used exclusively by RPM and Rick. That's good enough for me.
The year and model of model of your car will determine whether it has a 10mm or 12mm setup.
Ok, I guess its not as complicated as I thought. Just those bearings and couplers. I really appreciate everyone's help. I will call and discuss with the experts.
I do have one other concern if I may. I was also considering hardened output shafts for the diff. But my shop suggested that the 3-rib diff that I have should be sufficient for my end goal off 400whp and the 3200 stall. I do not want to have to remove the drivetrain again. Am I really safe to not upgrade the shafts? Or would it be stupid to not do them now?
Once again, talk with Rick. I believe the C6Z06 shafts are less expensive than the 300M shafts and are beefier than stock. Cheap insurance. Even a 3 rib case can grenade if one lets loose. Think about the long side anyways.
It's not so much the HP but sticky tires on a sticky track.
There is a pilot bushing/bearing in the A4 cars. The assembly that mounts to the flwwheel is a strange looking afair, but it can accomodate fore aft movement. I know the pilot bearing is there in the end of the crank because I had my TT out and I saw it. I greased it.
There are both 10mm and 12mm TT for the A4. I believe 2000 and earlier was the split. I put a 12mm in mine when apart. I failed to replace the couplers, that was a mistake.
When I replace them, a Job I dread, I will use the DSS parts and never worry again. Although the A4 has to be WAY WAY easier on them compared to a stick shift car.
There is a pilot bushing/bearing in the A4 cars. The assembly that mounts to the flwwheel is a strange looking afair, but it can accomodate fore aft movement. I know the pilot bearing is there in the end of the crank because I had my TT out and I saw it. I greased it.
Hmmmm......a few possibilities.
1) One, your car was previously converted from a manual to an auto, and it was left in.
2) There is a factory replacement block in the car, and whoever installed, left the pilot bearing in (because replacement crate motors come with one installed)
3) If your car is bone stock, then you are mistaken, since they did not come from the factory with an A4, and a pilot bearing installed in the crank.
Like I said, I am not at all familiar with the setup on these cars. But what RonSSNova said about an auto being easy on the drive train is what the techs at the shop I go to said as well. Especially with the 3.42 gears and a higher stall for whatever reason. Obviously not when brake launching, but I feel good knowing that the setup should last a long time once its complete.
I ordered the tt rebuild kit w/ poly couplers from RPMtransmission along with the heavy duty drive plate. I feel good about the setup now. These parts wont go bad and can handle any power I throw at it in the future. Other than the propshaft itself which he said can handle around 600whp. I think that is more power or close to any power my car will ever see cammed and possibly supercharged in the future.
I have also decided on the hardened 300M output shafts, but have not started shopping around for them yet. All this will get done at one time so that I will never have to open the drive train again (knock on wood). Just tranny and diff services commonly. If I ever go superchargerd, I will be ready for it.
The interesting thing about our prop shafts is the fact that it only has to handle engine torque.
They don't handle anywhere NEAR the abuse a driveshaft in a car that has it after the transmission where it is subjected to 3-5X the torque loading.
I'll take a photo of the end of the shaft that mates to the flywheel on an A4 car. It sure looks like it mates to a pilot bushing. If there isn't one in the crank, as Lucky says, I bow to his knowledge as I greased the end for no reason. I guess at least it won't rust.