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its probably about time. I have 126k on my C5. I bought it with 70k on it and don't know for sure if the previous owner ever changed the clutch or not.
I am not having any problems with the clutch right now, its working perfectly. but I need a differential rebuild (thread on that to come) and the shop quoted me an additional $250 in labor, plus whatever the parts cost to replace the clutch at the same time. I should probably not miss this opportunity right?
last dyno showed 355whp, a few mods since...maybe 20whp or so, more to come, but I think my performance needs will have it in the 400-450whp range eventually. I daily drive the car and need a smooth easy to drive clutch.
considering the LS7 kit from GMPartsHouse, what are the advantages? more power handling of course, but I don't think I'm exceeding the limits of the stock clutch yet, is it worth it?
or should I just get a new stock LS1 clutch?
is the stock LS6 clutch an improvement over the LS1 or are they the same?
should I be replacing the hydraulics with the LS6 components while I'm at it? slave and master, or just the slave?
lots of questions, but thanks in advance for any advice!
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by mcgilles
its probably about time. I have 126k on my C5. I bought it with 70k on it and don't know for sure if the previous owner ever changed the clutch or not.
I am not having any problems with the clutch right now, its working perfectly. but I need a differential rebuild (thread on that to come) and the shop quoted me an additional $250 in labor, plus whatever the parts cost to replace the clutch at the same time. I should probably not miss this opportunity right?
last dyno showed 355whp, a few mods since...maybe 20whp or so, more to come, but I think my performance needs will have it in the 400-450whp range eventually. I daily drive the car and need a smooth easy to drive clutch.
considering the LS7 kit from GMPartsHouse, what are the advantages? more power handling of course, but I don't think I'm exceeding the limits of the stock clutch yet, is it worth it?
or should I just get a new stock LS1 clutch?
is the stock LS6 clutch an improvement over the LS1 or are they the same?
should I be replacing the hydraulics with the LS6 components while I'm at it? slave and master, or just the slave?
lots of questions, but thanks in advance for any advice!
For what you're doing, I can recommend a McLeod RST dual-disk. Stock pedal feel (serious) and no driveability issues, aka "chatter". It can also easily handle the future power levels you're speaking of as well. Several vendors sell them and I have seen some good deals from time to time.
Just as a matter of course I would also recommend at least a new slave and pilot bearing as well. Have your guy check out the guibos too while the drivetrain is out. If you do decide to go back with the OEM units, stick with the real GM pieces.
I personally have the new RAM 12 inch disc in my car and it works great. As far as drivability goes its almost like a stock replacement clutch but it can hold up to 550 hp/tq. I have a heads/cam Z06 making right at that number and it works great for me. Designed to work with the stock flywheel and hardware, I would recommend at least getting a new slave with it when installing. I have driven a number of aftermarket clutches and this one has by far been the easiest to drive, especially for the type of power my car is making.
I personally have the new RAM 12 inch disc in my car and it works great. As far as drivability goes its almost like a stock replacement clutch but it can hold up to 550 hp/tq. I have a heads/cam Z06 making right at that number and it works great for me. Designed to work with the stock flywheel and hardware, I would recommend at least getting a new slave with it when installing. I have driven a number of aftermarket clutches and this one has by far been the easiest to drive, especially for the type of power my car is making.
monster stage 2 with new flywheel here. holds my 440 rwhp and drives like stock
This is what I run. Good choice. You can also go with the LS6 set up for less money. A new slave should be in order no matter what route you choose. No need to replace the master in your case. LS6 is an upgrade from a LS1. Both the LS6 and Monster options will easily hold your HP requirements! LS7 is heavy in my OP.
Last edited by Daddyrama31; Oct 24, 2012 at 08:00 AM.
Lots of good options at least! thanks for the input so far.
JohnJ, would the RAM clutch be compatible with my stock flywheel? and with the miles on it, would it need to be resurfaced while this is done?
I've also heard a lot of good things about Monster, that would definitely be an option. I'm not sure exactly what causes it, but the chatter sound known for some aftermarket clutches is something I want to avoid, I want quiet operation and stock-like driving. if some of the more modest Monster options will give me that I'll certainly be interested.
would something like a monster stage 2 be a better option than something stock? I understand the stock clutch can hold a decent amount of power, not sure where its limit is though.
Lots of good options at least! thanks for the input so far.
JohnJ, would the RAM clutch be compatible with my stock flywheel? and with the miles on it, would it need to be resurfaced while this is done?
I've also heard a lot of good things about Monster, that would definitely be an option. I'm not sure exactly what causes it, but the chatter sound known for some aftermarket clutches is something I want to avoid, I want quiet operation and stock-like driving. if some of the more modest Monster options will give me that I'll certainly be interested.
would something like a monster stage 2 be a better option than something stock? I understand the stock clutch can hold a decent amount of power, not sure where its limit is though.
Yes sir it will work with the stock flywheel. It would need to be resurfaced though. Monster stuff works great as well. I am just extremely impressed with the drivability I have with this clutch considering the power it is holding.
Stock clutches are usually good for stock power or just a little more. You can run more power on them for a little while but they deterioate quickly. In my 00 camaro SS back in the day I put a cam in on the stock clutch. It lasted about 4 or 5 months before it started slipping. Granted I wasn't necessarily easy on it, but I didn't drive it like I stole it every day either.
Definetly do the clutch now, with TO and pilot bearing.
First time I replaced the clutch [LS6] with a friends help the oil seal behind the PB lealed and ruined it.
Second time went with a Spec 2 kevlar. Lots of chatter in normal driving.
Third [when my rear went out] went with RPS carbon twin. Expensive, but great.
Word of warning: be careful who you have do your rear. I had a nightmare with mine.
Yes sir it will work with the stock flywheel. It would need to be resurfaced though. Monster stuff works great as well. I am just extremely impressed with the drivability I have with this clutch considering the power it is holding.
Stock clutches are usually good for stock power or just a little more. You can run more power on them for a little while but they deterioate quickly. In my 00 camaro SS back in the day I put a cam in on the stock clutch. It lasted about 4 or 5 months before it started slipping. Granted I wasn't necessarily easy on it, but I didn't drive it like I stole it every day either.
thanks! I have a mild cam, intake, exhaust, tune, and a few other things. so far it seems to be holding up pretty well. I did have it slip pretty badly one time, but it was fine after, and its been over 3 years since that happened with no further problems. I guess it was just glazed?
Definetly do the clutch now, with TO and pilot bearing.
First time I replaced the clutch [LS6] with a friends help the oil seal behind the PB lealed and ruined it.
Second time went with a Spec 2 kevlar. Lots of chatter in normal driving.
Third [when my rear went out] went with RPS carbon twin. Expensive, but great.
Word of warning: be careful who you have do your rear. I had a nightmare with mine.
thanks for the warning! the shop I'm considering was recommended by another C5 owner who recently had some significant powertrain work done by them. they seem to be pretty good. Although I'm leaning towards paying the extra cash and buying a built differential from DTE or RPM or somewhere like that, and having them just R&R the thing rather than letting them do a rebuild. I need to get a thread started for some help on that also! I'm planning to hold out until spring. the shop said its just noise and a drivability issue; needs a rebuild but he doesn't think its about to blow up either. with winter coming I think spring is going to be the right time.
forgive my ignorance, but what's the TO? I don't want to miss something I really should get done.
thinking I'll have the torque tube bushings replaced at the same time, and I'm wondering about a speed bleeder for the clutch system, I think I've read that's a good idea while its already apart?