Well it is time to put in a new clutch :U . Can anyone offer some tips, tricks and guidance to get this accomplished. Are there any special tools needed?

I thought that I saw an article on this last year but the "ol' ball and chain" tossed my magazine library. Said something about it cluttering up the bathroom. :rolleyes: Some things they just can't understand.
Anyway, I have access to a lift, transmission jack and tall jack stands as well as a well stocked tool box.

Any help would be appreciated.
Beer


[Modified by C5stein, 9:11 AM 6/6/2002]

 

Sounds like you are going to do this yourself without a lift. If so, contact MattG since he did it this way, also.

The exhaust has to come out. The rear suspension, rear end, transmission and torque tube have to come out.

The tricky and most important part has to do with installing the new clutch.

The clutch comes as an "Assembly" from GM. It includes the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate and the "Assembly" is neutral balanced (at least it is supposed to be). Before removing the old flywheel, you MUST mark it so that you know it position in relation to the crankshaft. Both the crankshaft and the flywheel have an extra hole in them at the bolt pattern. These holes MAY OR MAY NOT line up. Be sure you know where they are in relation to each other.

Look at the holes around the outside edge of the flywheel. These holes may or may not have weights inserted in them. These weights MUST be transferred to the new flywheel in the exact same position that they were in on the old flywheel.

If you do not follow this, you will have a vibration in the engine/drive train for which there is no easy cure.

LS1/LS6 engines are externally balanced. The flywheel weights and weights in the harmonic balancer/pulley on the front of the engine are the way they do it. Don't take any chances with this or you will be living with a vibration which will ruin your enjoyment and substantially reduce the life of engine seals and bearings.

While you are at it, it is also a good idea to replace both the slave cylinder and master cylinder.

Good luck.

 

Thanks Steve!!!
I do have a lift so it shouldn't be too horible.
I had heard that the engine was externally ballanced, but I didn't know how. I really appreciate your input. It would definately suck to go to all this work and end up with a horible vibration.

Do you know MattG's email address so I can get ahold of him?
Thanks again


Does anyone have experience with aluminum flywheels?

 

Looks like a typical C5 repair dilemma: A big job, lottsa work, and a few tricky things that have to be known to do it right. So, do you trust Mr. Goodwrench, an honest independent shop, or do it yourself? I guess that's why forum members ask for advice on dealerships and shops if you don't happen to live near C5Tech or C4C5Tech. :smash:

 

Your welcome. Vibrations like I had definitely do suck.

MattG's email is mattglas@sympatico.ca.

He is also a supporting vendor for Exit 28.

The interesting thing about this is that there are a lot of good mechanics in dealerships and private shops. But very few will take the time to read the shop manuels. Up until the C5, all you had to do was line up the two holes. In fact there was a dowel that forced you to put the flywheel on that way. So, without reading the manuel or taking a GM course (and paying attention), they just assume it should be done the same way. OOP'S!

 

Steve thanks for your info on Clutch replacement.

My 98 cooupe has a wimpy clutch, I'm very displeased with it. I bought the car with 7,500 miles on it a year ago and other than 4 burnout attempts, it has not been abused. In a straight line, all I do is "shine up" the pressure plate. Can't seem to break the tires loose consistantly. I don't plan to install a head & cam package in the near future. Would a Z06 assembly be a good enough to handle aggresive driving habits.

 

The '02 Z06 clutch is pretty good. Holds up very well under "normal" driving conditions. Over 400 RWHP and/or racing might be a little much for it.

Steve