Nice Dan, You'd think that to be true, but apparently the only mechanics in mechanicsville are the ones that can fix Amish buggies...

 

Got my buddies TECH II on there to do a manual accuator lock and unlock and it didn't do nothing. Check the voltage for the batttery w/ the TECH II as well and with key on was in the 13.1 range so it's not the battery.

So I've done the LMC5 and R to no avail, new column switch to no avail and used a TECH II w/ no success. History codes are the ones related to this very issue and can't recall the numbers off my head. Not sure what to do at this point, COH CLB or Hp Tuners and knock the mph up. Has anyone actually done the HP method and actually worked or is that just urban legend?

 

13.1 can't be with the key on, engine off unless you have a charger on it. It can still be the battery. It can also be poor grounding I'm sure.

HP tuners can allow the car to be driven by overriding the MPH limit, but the message will stay in my experience.

 

Yes, that was with the charger on there. Without it, I was in the 12.8 range steady.

As for grounds, where or which ones in particular should I be concerned with for this issue? Thinking HP and be done w/ it....could care less about the DIC. Been over 2 mos now and it's getting old.

 

Well guess what? HP Tuners didn't do the trick either! LOL So that leads to the obvious. BCM. Using another BCM and TECH II today just to test the theory out. My luck as it stands, it's that.

 

I was told that my BCM maybe bad as well. Please post the results from using another BCM. Very expensive to replace I think.

 

Shortly after I got my car I had a similar situation. I took it to a dealer and the vette tech took a look at it. Apparently, the tumblers that lock the wheel were funky and causing a false signal. The wheel would unlock when started but still acted like the column lock issue but no codes. I told the tech that I had already purchased the column lock mod and he installed it while he was fixing the tumbler issue. Since I had already been screwed by another dealer over this issue, the Service Manager got the repair comp'd.

I did get my money back from the first dealer.

 

Sorry if I missed your response to this issue, but it's not just the volts. You need a good battery with at least 700 CCA and 120 RC ratings. The 120 RC is perhaps the most critical aspect with respect to these issues. Something like 85% or more of these issues are traced to the wrong battery or a weak old battery.

These are the correct minimum ratings for all C5's except for 2004's. I'm not sure about batteries for ZO6 models.

With respect to these issues, it is what happens to the electrical system between turning on the key and then actually starting the car that matters.

Because of all these issues, I not only make sure that I have the correct battery and that it is properly charged, but I also always wait 5 seconds for the computers and relays and who knows what else to power up and stabilize before I move the ignition key from ON to START. Can't hurt ... Might help.

 

I've inquired about what battery meets the 700 CCA and 120 RC? I have a Duralast from Auto Zone and a new battery from Walmart. Both say this is the battery for my car however the only one that shows RC is the Duralast and it's 90, 30 RC short. Where can I get the correct batter?

 

Any GM Dealer

AC Delco Professional, Model #78-6yr, 700 CCA 120 RC, Part # 19001632

This model does not have built in carrying handles. The parts guys will likely try to talk you into something else. Don't let them change your mind. If you have a 2004 C5 you need a different battery.

 

Agree. My original AC Delco lasted 6 years and I replaced it with another AC Delco that I got from my local dealer. They even gave me a discount just for asking for one.

 

It is not so much that I disagree with what you've said, with regard to RC ratings, it's that I just can't agree completely.

The BCM checks for the correct battery voltage and the Column Lock position when the key is first inserted and then continues to monitor both when the ignition switch is turned to START.

If it detects less than 10 volts, it cannot determine the position of the column lock. As a safety precaution, anytime it can't determine the position of the Column Lock, it stops the start process and usually gives one of two messages:

"Pull key, wait 10 seconds" or "SERVICE COLUMN LOCK" ... Of course, these messages or start failure can also indicate the Column Lock is in an uncommanded position.

By some experiential measures, approximately 88% of all Column Lock malfunctions are battery voltage related. Therefore, it is prudent to first consider the battery voltage as a probable cause on almost any Pull Key message that happens repeatedly. If the battery and voltage check out, then other issues such as battery terminal cleanliness, 11 pounds of battery cable torque, grounds, & BCMs etc. etc. can then be checked.

It is correct that the RC is largely the design feature that protects the start ability when an otherwise good new battery isn't used for as much as 30 days. As that battery ages and suffers from irregular use the voltage and RC capability begin to drop.

That is why every battery should be tested annually and replaced if it can't demonstrate 12.5 volts and 500 CCA in the test.

Yes, a trickle charger is a good idea when the car isn't being driven at least every two to three weeks, but the same benefit can be obtained by disconnecting the negative wire from the battery terminal anytime the car is expected to sit idle for more than two weeks.

And yes, an older weaker battery might definitely benefit from a running trickle charge.

But, since the specs call for a battery rated at 700 CCA & 120 RC, I see no real logic in intentionally using either a cheaper or lower spec battery and then trying to make up for that by messing around with the inconvenience of using a trickle charger.

Bottom line, an older battery after sitting for two or three weeks can indicate 12 volts on the car gauge before start and then easily drop below 10 volts upon starter engagement. The recommended 120 RC rating helps to measurably prevent such occurrences.

 

After owning 2 C5's and having the CL issue on both, I made an observation that may need to be considered. One of the C5's had beaucoup miles and before I put in a CLB, I would occasionally get a pull key wait... signal and would have to go thru the wheel shake and pull to the right method; turn key on, to get the column lock to unlock. (both were 6sp manuals) After putting in the CLB, no more probs.

The second C5 I bought with only 7k miles on it. The CL motor sounded much different, gave a much quicker response sound. Nonetheless, after a couple of weeks sitting and the battery getting drained a bit, WHAMMO, the CL.. pull key and wait...

SO, the conclusion I came to is that there can be an issue with the CL motor and pin wearing and moving slower than the BCM timing signal.

I think the CL pin that is driven by the motor has to make a switch ( a switch is shown on the wiring diagram) when it fully retracts. Maybe you aren't making the switch.

If your car is a manual trans and the last guy didn't cut the pin, you might have a chance to get things back with the wheel shake and pull, which is in the sticky associated with this issue. I don't think this tactic applies to auto trans, though

Good luck. It can be a pain.

 

I ordered the CLB and will remove the LMC5R. I want to connect the original wiring including reconnecting the CL relay. This should put it back to stock, then I"m going to install the CLB and reconnect the battery. Hopefully this will eliminate my pull key message. Two questions, One why does it work when you pull the key and wait and two, where can I purchase the Delco professional battery?

 

Thank you very much 8VETTE7, Now I understand what I need to do. I"ll install the CLB and report back. They also provide a CL unlocker that I will use to ensure the lock is UNLOCED. Hopefully it will do the trick. Happy New year to all on the formum.