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I'm here in Houston so I called England Green to get a recommendation for a good place to go for lowering and alignment. Talked to a guy there with a British accent and he recommended Southwest Alignment co.
So Saturday morning first thing I go. Told two guys I needed lowered and alignment, car is up in the air for 30 minutes and guy says "all done"
I say "How far you lower it" He says "OH, you wanted it lowered?" New guy comes over after discussion with first guy and says "You want it lowered?"
So know I'm a bit nervous about this entire prosess. I tell him yes and he says OK that will be $260.00 I say OK.
Now long story short.... Drove car around for a day and then measured. From ground to center of wheel well.. LF 26-1/8"
RF 26-1/2" LR27-3/16" RR 26-13/16 Car seems to go straight down the road. Can anybody tell me if these numbers sound right? I have a feeling these guys were just guessing. Thanks for any help you guys can give me.
Car is a 1999 Vert
Thanks Jack
I only measured from there because that's what I saw the guys at the alignment shop doing. I'll see if it's any better from the plates.
Thanks again.
Make sure you're on a very level surface. I stole this tip from someone else here: buy a turnbuckle for a couple bucks from Lowe's or HD for an easy way to get a precise measurement. Turn the buckler until tight at the jacking point then take it out and measure it.
[QUOTE=CalixEros;1582309839]Make sure you're on a very level surface. I stole this tip from someone else here: buy a turnbuckle for a couple bucks from Lowe's or HD for an easy way to get a precise measurement. Turn the buckler until tight at the jacking point then take it out and measure it.[/QUOT
Hmm... it takes 20 min to lower a vette. Very easy to do. The alignment prob shouldn't have been done yet either. Usually most people recommend driving around for about 50 miles or so to make sure everything settles all the way, then getting the alignment. Mine dropped another 3/8" or so after driving. 20 min of work to lower, a little drive, and a $90 alignment and I called it a day with mine.
Lowering is just turning 1 bolt per tire. Very easy, done it my self two times. Replacing the front bolts with a lowering kit = more work, but doable.
After lowering get an alignment after 100ish miles or your going to eat your tires up.
I think i may have lowered mine too much as i've had it aligned twice both alignments look good but I'm getting cupping. Dealership said suspension parts look fine. No explanation for the cupping other than it's too low. Keep stock bolts and you'll be fine.
I think i may have lowered mine too much as i've had it aligned twice both alignments look good but I'm getting cupping. Dealership said suspension parts look fine. No explanation for the cupping other than it's too low. Keep stock bolts and you'll be fine.
This doesn't make any sense. If your alignment is "good," you will not see cupping. If it is "bad," you will. I use quotations because everyone wants something different from their alignment based on how they plan to use the car. In this case, "good" would be a mild street alignment intended for increased tire life, not an aggressive track alignment.
What are your alignment specs? Have you had it checked since it was done and since you have noticed the cupping?
This doesn't make any sense. If your alignment is "good," you will not see cupping. If it is "bad," you will. I use quotations because everyone wants something different from their alignment based on how they plan to use the car. In this case, "good" would be a mild street alignment intended for increased tire life, not an aggressive track alignment.
What are your alignment specs? Have you had it checked since it was done and since you have noticed the cupping?
Jack
Cupping was prob caused by improper wheel balance. Wheel hopping down the road. Alignment won't fix it. Hope this helps.
So it's been about a week now, drove 150 miles to see how it is. Remeasured from the numbers I first posted....... LF is minus1/8, RF is Same...............LR is minus 1/4.......RR is minus 3/16
So it's true they settle a bit after being driven for a while. I'm already in it $260.00 so one more alignment. Other problem seems to be it's a bit too low. Rides like an Army tank now, so I guess we go up a quarter inch? or so and then realign. Any more good ideas from you guys. I'm getting ready to run this thing to Key Largo first part of December, need to get it right.
This doesn't make any sense. If your alignment is "good," you will not see cupping. If it is "bad," you will. I use quotations because everyone wants something different from their alignment based on how they plan to use the car. In this case, "good" would be a mild street alignment intended for increased tire life, not an aggressive track alignment.
What are your alignment specs? Have you had it checked since it was done and since you have noticed the cupping?
Jack
I don't have the sheet in front of me with the final specs... I'll look for it tonight so I can post what was done. The wheels felt very balanced, not a smiggon of vibration. However, after I saw the cupping (I didn't notice it until I changed the oil after about 4k miles after slamming and alignment) the tires were completely shot. I took it back to a recommended corvette mechanic in my area who is a corvette guru recommended on this forum, and apparently is the only guy to touch vettes at the dealship. He realigned it, said it was with in spec, but aligned them in more up and down chamber (I can't remember if it was positive or negative) but less chamber than stock spec..., rebalanced the wheels, said they were almost perfect, and inspected the suspension and said it looked just fine. He had no explanation for the cupping. Which was disheartening to me... because I feel its going to happen again. However, I've put about 1500 miles on since then, and so far so good. (I may actually jack the car up an inspect again soon).
Originally Posted by lowbucks
Cupping was prob caused by improper wheel balance. Wheel hopping down the road. Alignment won't fix it. Hope this helps.
I'm hoping this was the issue, along with a more straight up and down chamber, however the wheel balance was very good according to the check I had done.
Originally Posted by meanjoe
$260.00 is what they charged me to lower and align.
Change bolts? or kept the stock bolts? And did they let you align it after you put a 100 miles or so on it? The suspension has to settle in some.