CV Install Issue
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Joined: Mar 2012
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From: Florida
CV Install Issue
I'm a C5Z, running a C6Z rearend/cradle with DSS axles.
I've got the driver side complete and bolted up with a tire on...for whatever reason the passenger side cv is being a total *****. I can't get the upper ball joint into the upper control arm.
Any suggestions?
I've tried jacking up the lower control arm with a jack...it just lifts the car off the stands and won't allow me to drop the ball joint into the upper.
I disconnected the swaybar and the shock...then jacked it up...got two threads of the upper ball joint to drop into the upper but still wouldn't allow me to connect it.
I double checked the thread count on the CV Axle nut three times now...I got about 6 threads on each side...
The CV connecting to the diff is the same distance on either side, as far as where it go into the seal, no issue...it appears to be all the way in.
I'm stumped and frustrated. Can't get it. Any pointers?
I've got the driver side complete and bolted up with a tire on...for whatever reason the passenger side cv is being a total *****. I can't get the upper ball joint into the upper control arm.
Any suggestions?
I've tried jacking up the lower control arm with a jack...it just lifts the car off the stands and won't allow me to drop the ball joint into the upper.
I disconnected the swaybar and the shock...then jacked it up...got two threads of the upper ball joint to drop into the upper but still wouldn't allow me to connect it.
I double checked the thread count on the CV Axle nut three times now...I got about 6 threads on each side...
The CV connecting to the diff is the same distance on either side, as far as where it go into the seal, no issue...it appears to be all the way in.
I'm stumped and frustrated. Can't get it. Any pointers?
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From: Florida
The passenger side has the upper control arm attached to the frame, the upper bolt joint is undone, the lower ball joint is loose, the shock is now back in the car at both points and the sway bar is disconnected at the lower control arm, the lower control arm is attached to the subframe. The tie rod is also loose.
Last edited by Suprsaiyjinbroli; Nov 12, 2012 at 08:57 AM.
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From: Florida
You mean loosen the bolts on the passenger side where it connects to the subframe?
If I disconnect the leaf...how am I gonna get it back in once the run the bolt through...I've gotta pull the control arms off to get the leaf in...kinda trading one evil for another unless I'm misunderstanding you.
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Disconnect the leaf spring?
You mean loosen the bolts on the passenger side where it connects to the subframe?
If I disconnect the leaf...how am I gonna get it back in once the run the bolt through...I've gotta pull the control arms off to get the leaf in...kinda trading one evil for another unless I'm misunderstanding you.
You mean loosen the bolts on the passenger side where it connects to the subframe?
If I disconnect the leaf...how am I gonna get it back in once the run the bolt through...I've gotta pull the control arms off to get the leaf in...kinda trading one evil for another unless I'm misunderstanding you.
I've tried jacking up the lower control arm with a jack...it just lifts the car off the stands and won't allow me to drop the ball joint into the upper.
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From: Florida
Update:
Forgot to mention...all four corners of the car are in the air.
I disconnected the sway bar now from the rear subframe and need like 1 thread and I've got it...gonna try lowering the car onto 3 corners and then lifting it from the one...which may provide me with my fat chicks that was recommended
Forgot to mention...all four corners of the car are in the air.
I disconnected the sway bar now from the rear subframe and need like 1 thread and I've got it...gonna try lowering the car onto 3 corners and then lifting it from the one...which may provide me with my fat chicks that was recommended
Team Owner
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Yeah, getting 3 tires on the ground might be your best/safest bet. But if you're as close as you're saying, then I'd really bet you could just back the spring bolt out a tad to get the thread engagement that you need.
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From: Florida
I'll give it a try tomorrow.
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I tried to remove the CV and just start that side over again...it won't come out...put a pry bar on it...still won't come out.
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From: Florida
Well, got off the phone with RPM and DSS.
I've got a bad bearing in that CV. Gonna pull it at the flanges and send it back.
Apparently it isn't all that uncommon of an issue...happens during installation sometimes.
DSS was super helpful...gonna pull the CV at the flanges and send it back for repair. Once it comes back in, should go back together with no issue.
I've got a bad bearing in that CV. Gonna pull it at the flanges and send it back.
Apparently it isn't all that uncommon of an issue...happens during installation sometimes.
DSS was super helpful...gonna pull the CV at the flanges and send it back for repair. Once it comes back in, should go back together with no issue.
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Good you figured that out. Something was wrong. If you have the lower arm in place and the shock bolted in place then the upper should just fall into position. Forcing it will just end in a bad result.
It almost sounds like you over extended the inner CV and it's jambed up and won't slide back together right. Basically, if you pull the inner apart the ball bearings can fall out and cause grief.
It almost sounds like you over extended the inner CV and it's jambed up and won't slide back together right. Basically, if you pull the inner apart the ball bearings can fall out and cause grief.
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From: Florida
So DSS got the CV...the CV is fine. LOL. WTF.
I had to use a bearing puller to get the CV Flange out of the diff.
It refuses to push in more...when compared to the stock CV the flange, where it goes over the diff stub is actually longer/deeper. The measurements are greater. The measurement from the C Clip to the Lip as well from the inner base to the Lip are longer. Right now, that is just an observation. I'm waiting on DSS to call me back.
I'm guess it was cut a little long maybe...I have no idea at this point other than a CV shouldn't be this big a pain in the ***.
I had to use a bearing puller to get the CV Flange out of the diff.
It refuses to push in more...when compared to the stock CV the flange, where it goes over the diff stub is actually longer/deeper. The measurements are greater. The measurement from the C Clip to the Lip as well from the inner base to the Lip are longer. Right now, that is just an observation. I'm waiting on DSS to call me back.
I'm guess it was cut a little long maybe...I have no idea at this point other than a CV shouldn't be this big a pain in the ***.
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From: Florida
Its possible. I told DSS about my observation...they said they're sending me another inner flange. Hopefully that is it...hopefully.
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Spoke with DSS. New patch of flanges should be ready to go Monday.
One of their techs has asked me to pull the completed side and see if it'll fit the unfinished side...sure...once you send me the new flange and IF it fails to work (hopefully not) then I'll do that.
I've gotta get to the Christmas stuff in the attic. I'm gonna put the car together this weekend, minus a CV, crank it up, roll it into the driveway and clean up the garage and get down the Christmas stuff. Wife's orders.
One of their techs has asked me to pull the completed side and see if it'll fit the unfinished side...sure...once you send me the new flange and IF it fails to work (hopefully not) then I'll do that.
I've gotta get to the Christmas stuff in the attic. I'm gonna put the car together this weekend, minus a CV, crank it up, roll it into the driveway and clean up the garage and get down the Christmas stuff. Wife's orders.