alternator advice
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From: Dallas Tx
alternator advice
have a c5 z and the alternator jus went out would you guys just get another ac delco or is there something better. The car has a built top end and a pretty mean sound system so would i benefit from one that pushes more amps?
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
The OEM alternator should handle anything that you can throw at it. How many AMPS do you think that your stereo draws power wise?? 
You have to be careful what alternator that you try to replace yours with. The alternator is PCM monitored and if you get one that isn’t, it will give you a charging system fault message all the time.
BC
You have to be careful what alternator that you try to replace yours with. The alternator is PCM monitored and if you get one that isn’t, it will give you a charging system fault message all the time.
BC
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From: Dallas Tx
Car stared last week with low voltage 11 then this past week at idle would jump from 13 to 14.8 once i started driving it would go to 18 and every dash light would flash and turn off plus it just failed the alternator test at autozone
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
Sounds just like you have a bad connection at the starter solenoid. TRUST ME! If those wires are loose or damaged,, you are seeing what happens. Try that first
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
1200 WATTS is not AMPS.
If I remember correctly, your alternator is 140 amps at full tilt. If you use WATTS LAW (P= I X E ) P=Power 1200W,, I= Current (which is the unknown) and E= Voltage use 14.0 VDC
1200W divided by 14.0 VDC = 86 AMPS (and that is NOT a constant draw) Thats a momentary peak draw. Trust me,, you have PLENTY alternator output.
BC
If I remember correctly, your alternator is 140 amps at full tilt. If you use WATTS LAW (P= I X E ) P=Power 1200W,, I= Current (which is the unknown) and E= Voltage use 14.0 VDC
1200W divided by 14.0 VDC = 86 AMPS (and that is NOT a constant draw) Thats a momentary peak draw. Trust me,, you have PLENTY alternator output.
BC
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From: Granby, MA
Cruise-In 1, 3, 9. 10 & 11 Veteran
1200 WATTS is not AMPS.
If I remember correctly, your alternator is 140 amps at full tilt. If you use WATTS LAW (P= I X E ) P=Power 1200W,, I= Current (which is the unknown) and E= Voltage use 14.0 VDC
1200W divided by 14.0 VDC = 86 AMPS (and that is NOT a constant draw) Thats a momentary peak draw. Trust me,, you have PLENTY alternator output.
BC
If I remember correctly, your alternator is 140 amps at full tilt. If you use WATTS LAW (P= I X E ) P=Power 1200W,, I= Current (which is the unknown) and E= Voltage use 14.0 VDC
1200W divided by 14.0 VDC = 86 AMPS (and that is NOT a constant draw) Thats a momentary peak draw. Trust me,, you have PLENTY alternator output.
BC
If I may pick your brain sir....
Is their any math to figure out what an amplifier is truly putting out in both wattage and amps? In other words...say we have 2 amplifiers, one is 1000 wrms and the other 300 wrms. That would total 1300 wrms. Now the fuses on the amplifiers are 100 amps and 60 amps. These are not pulling 160 amps at full max output...are they? That just wouldn't seem right for common sense reasons being your alternator would be overpowered and you technically I would think would blow the fuses at max draw.
Curious....
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
Im pretty good in a LOT of things but modern day stereo stuff is NOT one of them.. Im positive that if you asked the same question in the stereo section, the brains would know!
Those stereo guy know their stuff WELL!
When you figure out the answer, let us know and also let us know what caused your issue.
BC
Those stereo guy know their stuff WELL!When you figure out the answer, let us know and also let us know what caused your issue.
BC
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From: Dallas Tx
alright took the alternator to orileys to get a second opinion and it passed both times so guess autozone is full of S&^T... i'll look at the starter i just had the heads resurfaced a few months back so maybe the starter wasnt tightened back right... Also bill do you think it could be any relays or a fuse?
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
NO and maybe!!
Heres your schematic.. There are fuses BUT,, they are FUSABLE LINKS in the wire or should I say at the end of the wire. You can see them in the pictures of the starter:
Alternator:
Starter
Heres your schematic.. There are fuses BUT,, they are FUSABLE LINKS in the wire or should I say at the end of the wire. You can see them in the pictures of the starter:
Alternator:
Starter
Tech Contributor
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
I had a strange feeling that was what you were going to find. Be careful when tightening it. Clean it and use the correct torque and be care not to break the bakalite starter insulator.
BC
Melting Slicks
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Most GOOD stereo's have BIG external capacitors to take the load off the charging systems under heavy loads. The amps should have max current on them somewhere but power is generally Voltage * Current = Power but in an application like AC or Audio it's a little more complex but all you care about is MAX current draw.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Audio_power
Last edited by 3boystoys; Nov 16, 2012 at 03:38 PM.
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From: Dallas Tx
bill the bolt just fell off from the starter its the one on the bottom with 3 wires... all i did was put a wrench on it and it started to wiggle then i grabbed it and it just came loose from the starter
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From: Anthony TX
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St. Jude Donor '08
It is NOT common on a properly tightened/clean connection.. However,,, for what ever reason,, Yours became loose. When you have a loose dirty connection in a low voltage HIGH CURRENT circuit like the STARTER,, that loose joint make LOTS of heat.
SO,, you cooked your connection
You have several options. Replace the solenoid ($50), reman starter approx $140. New starter approx $300.
All options require starter removal.
NOTE. MAKE SURE that you get the proper starter bolt torque and TORQUE it to the correct specs.
If you dont,,, this can happen:
BC
Bill
SO,, you cooked your connection
You have several options. Replace the solenoid ($50), reman starter approx $140. New starter approx $300.
All options require starter removal.
NOTE. MAKE SURE that you get the proper starter bolt torque and TORQUE it to the correct specs.
If you dont,,, this can happen:
BC
Bill
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Really good information - thanks.