I've been doing tons of research on remote bleeders, but I can't seem to find anything recent. I need to get a remote bleeder, but I'm not sure what the general consensus is on what the best is. So far, I know Tick, Monster, and Katech. The Katech is 140$+shipping, vs 50$ (tick) and 40$ (monster). Which should I get? I don't want to go back in and change out a leaking remote bleeder if its a design flaw, but I'm having a hard time justifying 90$ more for something that looks to be essentially the same thing. Thanks in advance for any replies.

 

I think the Tick and the Monster clutch are the same. I think they get the line from Russell (part of the Edelbrock family). However no one sells the fitting that goes into the slave so I think they are custom made.

From what I have seen on 5 installs is that the leaks come from 2 places. First is the fitting in the slave. I had one that the threads galled and I thought the fitting was in tight, but the galled threads made it seem so when not and... leak. Chased the threads with a tap, and it was a pain to find the right size tap, but after chasing the threads, no leak. I would make a small bet that many of the complaints are this. The OEM fitting is in there tight and you roll a little aluminum taking them out, especially on an older install where there have been a lot of heat cycles.

If you go with Tick (Monster) make a check with the fitting and no copper washer just to make sure you can compress the copper to make a seal and you wll probably be Ok.

The second leak comes after use when us ape-fisted guys overtighten the bleed screw at the other end of the hose. To fix this, i got a 3000 psi instrument valve at work and put an AN-3 fitting in it. Now I just open a valve to bleed and the bleeder no longer leaks at the bleedin' end.

I found out something interesting last spring at the museum talking to one of the factory guys at the bash. The factory fitting we all bitch about location is actually a high-point air vent used during factory assmbly to bleed air. If has a spring and seat in it that lets our air until fluid shows, then the seat seats forever. That way they don't have to go thru a messy and time consuming bleed procedure at the factory. Come to think of it, when they mate the rolling chassis to the body, I never noticed anything happening with effort around the clutch. In fact, I never noticed them putting the clutch line QD together. Will have to watch closely on the C7's

 

The only way our leak is if they are not tightened or over-tightened. Or if you leave the copper washer off of it. If you need one give us a call, we have them in stock and ready to ship

 

I actually have a Monster level 2 with 18" bleeder line waiting at the house ready to go in.