When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My C5 is dead in the garage. The DIC shows 11.7 volts, the radio works but it will not engage the starter. After going from ON to START there is a click and the dash lights and DIC go OFF.
I have it on a wimpy charger now but something tells me this may be something other than a bad battery.
I've seen batteries with a bad or "dead" cell that would still register close to 12V but not have the amperage to crank the motor. I vote for a bad battery. If it's a side terminal, the corrosion would have to be pretty bad to not carry the current. A quick check of that would be to slightly loosen the terminal bolts and wiggle the connectors back and forth, then retighten.
I've seen batteries with a bad or "dead" cell that would still register close to 12V but not have the amperage to crank the motor. I vote for a bad battery. If it's a side terminal, the corrosion would have to be pretty bad to not carry the current. A quick check of that would be to slightly loosen the terminal bolts and wiggle the connectors back and forth, then retighten.
I had this happen to my 02. Dealership showed 12v when they did an initial test, but wouldn't start. They did a stress type test and showed a bad cell. It is likely a bad battery. Take it to and AutoZone or similar parts store and have them to a complete test on it.
After you check all the basic stuff like fuses and connections, Get the meter out and start troubleshooting. The Theft Deterent Relay (TDR) is where you start. Check the 60 Amp fuse and make sure that you have 12 VDC on the large red wire. When the ignition is placed to start the PURPLE wire should have battery voltage on it to energize the starter solenoid.
The other side of the TDR is the low current control side.
Heres the schematic that you need:
BC
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Nov 18, 2012 at 04:58 PM.
Remove both battery cables and check for corrosion. My did the same thing. These cars are VERY sensitive to voltage.
I pulled the battery and took it to Batteries Plus. They ran a check and said it had plenty of cranking amp to turn over the car. No shorts the battery checked okay.
The terminals were not corroded. I have called the wrecker to take it back to the shop that replaced the starter the last time this happened.
My C5 is dead in the garage. The DIC shows 11.7 volts, the radio works but it will not engage the starter. After going from ON to START there is a click and the dash lights and DIC go OFF.
I have it on a wimpy charger now but something tells me this may be something other than a bad battery.
I had the starter replaced about six months ago.
Dick
If the battery can only supply 11.7 V with no load, then you probably will only have a fraction of that when you turn the key to the on position. The battery needs to be able to maintain a minimum of about 11.5 V to 12 V for the PCM and other components to function, while at the same time supply a couple hundred amps to the starter. Much below 11.5 V and your electronic components will decide to take a nap.
Have the battery professionally tested as already suggested. While the battery is out check your cables. Also, don't forget the various ground straps from the battery to the chassis and from the chassis to the engine. Just 'cause they appear to be tight is not good enough. Take 'em apart, inspect them for corrosion & arcing, hit 'em with a wire brush and reassemble.
If the battery and the connections test OK and the problem persists, you'll need to determine why the battery is being run down. Depending on your circumstances, you may have a quiescent draw, or the alternator may not be up to snuff. One thing at a time, though!
My C5 is dead in the garage. The DIC shows 11.7 volts, the radio works but it will not engage the starter. After going from ON to START there is a click and the dash lights and DIC go OFF.
I have it on a wimpy charger now but something tells me this may be something other than a bad battery.
I had the starter replaced about six months ago.
Dick
After three (3) rides on a wrecker because it would not start, it is finally fixed. It should have been fixed the first time by the place that replaced the starter. I had it towed back and they could not get it start and gave up and then towed it to the Chevy dealer. The dealer charged the battery and said it was good. I replaced the battery and the next morning it would not start was was towed back to the dealership.
This time the GM tech found the wire going to the solenoid was corroded. He cut off the connect, solder on a new one and it is fixed and has been starting fine.
My vote is for a weak or bad battery or loose or corroded battery connections including the one at the starter. Take the battery to your favorite part store and have it tested. Most do that free. While it's out check all connections for damage and corrosion.
It was not corroded batty connection. It was a corroded connector on the wire attached to the solenoid and NONE of the high the instruments could isolate the problem. You were right with corrosion