Been having issues with the pedal dropping to the floor after high RPM shifts. Decided to change out the master cylinder, since the clutch/slave/pressure plate were changed not long before I bought the car. I've installed a Tick, and bench bled it, but I'm still experiencing a soft pedal after several high RPM shifts. I'm thinking there might be air in the line somewhere, so I'd like to bleed the system at the slave. Only thing is that it's a PITA to remove the exhaust, then reach my hand up there to get the bleed screw. I hear some people simply cut the floor to make it a 1 man job, and just cover the hole when done. Does anyone have a picture of where I need to cut?

 

I stumbled across something from the C6 sections that sounded interesting. The text says it works for C5 and C6. I have never seen this method discussed in the C5 section, but it sounds a lot better than what most do to get to the bleeder.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ur-clutch.html

Part of it is extracted below. Good luck.


A remote bleeder is nice and convenient but not all of us are willing or able to put a remote bleeder in or quite honestly I don’t know if you can even get one installed without tearing the torque tube and clutch out. So what can we do that is not too labor intensive and wont cost much? or How can we optimize this system and make it last? Whether its the basic STOCK clutch setup or a rather expensive aftermarket clutch this should only help. We are going to tell you how we do it in the car without too much labor.

The easiest way that we have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold.

 

Interesting, never would have thought of getting at the bleed screw from the top.

I'll give it a try when I get a chance and report back.

I have a feeling Ill be in for a new clutch soon though.

Also, somewhat clutch related, I occasionally grind when shifting into third, down shifting or upshifting. Does not happen often, maybe once or twice a week and I DD the car ~200mi/week. Doesn't grind for any other gears. Is this the initial signs of a dying synchro?

 

When I had my shifter box slightly out of alignment(front to back) 3rd gear would be more grind prone. It may be as simple as adjusting the box a bit.

On my 98 I did the clutch/driveline job half a dozen times without a remote bleeder. Every single time I'd be laying under the car cussing about how I'm getting the remote bleeder next time. I finally installed one the last time I did the job before trading it in. I am doing the clutch on my Z this winter...a remote bleeder is sitting in my garage in the box with my clutch.