Typical clutch hydraulic problem
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Greensburg PA
Typical clutch hydraulic problem
After experiencing the clutch pedal staying on the floor of my 04 with about 24K miles I found out about the Ranger method here on the Forum. While doing the protocol about the fourth time my wife comes into the garage and asks what the puddle under the car was - of course it's brake fluid. So I decided to bleed the system hoping I don't have a bad slave. I have the car apart right now and took off the bottom of the bell housing off to check the slave cylinder. There was some fluid in the bell housing but the pressure plate and disk look dry. I wiped everything off and pumped the pedal about 50 times. I don't see a leak from the cylinder as I had previously experienced. My question is, could the problem be solved with clean fluid or since I have so much apart right now should I tear it down and replace the slave. I don't want to do the work if I don't have to. Any opinions greatly appreciated?
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 10,727
Likes: 5
From: I know when the doggie he piss onna ma leg...
Cruise-In IV Veteran
St. Jude Donor '14
After experiencing the clutch pedal staying on the floor of my 04 with about 24K miles I found out about the Ranger method here on the Forum. While doing the protocol about the fourth time my wife comes into the garage and asks what the puddle under the car was - of course it's brake fluid. So I decided to bleed the system hoping I don't have a bad slave. I have the car apart right now and took off the bottom of the bell housing off to check the slave cylinder. There was some fluid in the bell housing but the pressure plate and disk look dry. I wiped everything off and pumped the pedal about 50 times. I don't see a leak from the cylinder as I had previously experienced. My question is, could the problem be solved with clean fluid or since I have so much apart right now should I tear it down and replace the slave. I don't want to do the work if I don't have to. Any opinions greatly appreciated?
Same situation here. You know what they're gonna tell us.......
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,373
Likes: 423
Pressure plate and disk remained dry when my slave started leaking. I ran it that way all winter and changed it in the spring. (refilling every morning)
In hindsight, I should have changed it in November when I first noticed it.
Your call.
In hindsight, I should have changed it in November when I first noticed it.
Your call.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Greensburg PA
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Greensburg PA
Seems like it only leaks a very little bit. Wish I had more time to drive it before I store it for the winter. If I can get it through the Spring I may go for the C7. Thanks
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 34,479
Likes: 531
From: Central PA. - - My AR15 identifies as a muzzleloader
I believe in the Beer Fairy
I've never done a master/slave replacement on a Vette, but the last one I did on an Fbody, I was told to also replace the hydraulic line at the same time. It wasn't cheap. In fact, it cost more than the master and slave together. But, I was sure then that I had good o-rings, and everything was new. I probably didn't 'have' to change it out, but, I don't like doing things twice, and my time is worth something to me. I didn't care if it was the slave, master or line, all 3 were going in the can. If one's dead, I figure the others aren't far behind.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 2,606
Likes: 355
From: Rochester New York
I've seen this before. Dust gets trapped into the slave cylinder seals and can cause a leak. If the dust moves, like with the ranger method, it might get you by. But the reality is you are probably going to experience this again, pedal to the floor and fluid loss. Once the dust gets in there it's an abrasive and destroys seals. I would determine when a good time to replace the slave cylinder is. If you are going to have a shop do it, expect 10-12 hours labor, + $200 for the cylinder, + $ for fluid, + $ for an alignment. I highly recommend installing a remote bleeder as well, so you can bleed the clutch from up top VS the nearly impossible to reach bleeder on top of the torque tube from the bottom. If you are made out of money, you could replace the clutch while you're in there, and install long tube headers 
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