Oil Question: Valvoline VR1
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 135
From: Maryland
I just noticed VR1 NFS is synthetic. Crane says not to use a synthetic to break in the cam.
Guess I'll follow Natie's lead and go with the Rotella T for break in. Then switch to Rotella T6 and maybe toss in a qt of VR1. How about mixing in a quart of Mobil 1 since I have a few cases in the garage?
Guess I'll follow Natie's lead and go with the Rotella T for break in. Then switch to Rotella T6 and maybe toss in a qt of VR1. How about mixing in a quart of Mobil 1 since I have a few cases in the garage?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 137
From: SoCal CA
Up to you, wont hurt. Just the zinc is not as high in Mobil1. I raced yesterday with my VR1 and Rotella T6 mix. Oil pressure stayed constant, even at 255* idle was 35psi. The hottest it got was 260* since I dont have a cooler. After 3 25min sessions the oil never thinned out on me, which Ive seen first hand with Mobil and Pennzoil, up to a 10psi hot idle drop at times. Im sold on this oil combo, I know that when Im pushing the car hard its still protecting my engine.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 137
From: SoCal CA
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=206230
And, straight from Mobils website, with reg syn, zinc is below 800ppm.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...otor_Oils.aspx
In the link is a pdf with their additive levels. Reg mobil1 is 800ppm, extended mileage is 900, their racing oil is 1750ppm but idk the mileage its intended for or its detergent package, and their v-twin motorcycle oil has 1600ppm. A couple other oils have 1100ppm but theyre wierd weights mostly for european vehicles. Not sure if some of those are sold here due to emissions.
Last edited by C5Natie; Dec 9, 2012 at 08:40 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 1,956
Likes: 135
From: Maryland
Interesting.
Don't think I'd use the motorcycle oils designed for use with a wet clutch. Looks like their high mileage oil has slightly elevate zddp. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
I talked to CompCams today (twice just to double check). They said with the LS1 and roller lifters, high zddp isn't needed. Also said synthetic is ok for cam swap and no break-in, no assembly lube required. Was very surprised they weren't trying to sell any of their products. Think I'll stay with the high zddp and assembly lube anyway. Unfortunately, can't find a local shop selling Lucas assy lube.
Don't think I'd use the motorcycle oils designed for use with a wet clutch. Looks like their high mileage oil has slightly elevate zddp. I'll give them a call tomorrow.
I talked to CompCams today (twice just to double check). They said with the LS1 and roller lifters, high zddp isn't needed. Also said synthetic is ok for cam swap and no break-in, no assembly lube required. Was very surprised they weren't trying to sell any of their products. Think I'll stay with the high zddp and assembly lube anyway. Unfortunately, can't find a local shop selling Lucas assy lube.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 137
From: SoCal CA
Roller cams dont really need a "break in" per say but I did cycle the valve springs a few times on first install, letting the car get up to temp, before I drove it hard. As for assembly, yes use it. When you do something like a cam install the last thing you want is a dry start. One little knick on a cam lobe will only get worse with time and LS cam bearings are known for showing wear early on even when new. Ive done a few cam swaps and have worked with many guys with modded big cam motors. Trust me, any time you have an aggresive valvetrain package amd good size cam, you want zddp, the more the better. You dont need as much of it as a flat tappet cam but it still helps protect those lobes.
Last edited by C5Natie; Dec 11, 2012 at 12:21 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 13,760
Likes: 75
From: Haymarket VA
Roller cams dont really need a "break in" per say but I do cycle the valve springs a few time, running the car up temp, before I drive it hard. As for assembly, yes use it. When you do something like a cam install the last thing you want is a dry start. One little knick on a cam lobe will only get worse with time and LS cam bearings are known for showing wear early on even when new. Ive done a few cam swaps and have worked with many guys with modded big cam motors. Trust me, any time you have an aggresive valvetrain package amd good size cam, you want zddp, the more the better. You dont need as much of it as a flat tappet cam but it still helps protect those lobes.
I do run a Dewitts rad with oil cooler. Strokers make heat.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 15
From: New Hartford IA
I have use Rotella t6 in my in my Audi S4 and 383 h/c ls6 for the last 4-5 years (Mobile 0w40 before). The Audi 2.7t from time to time has exhaust cams wear as these are not roller, but more of a flat tappet type overhead cam engine. Last year I gave everything a once over while doing top end seals and the cams look great at 120k miles. I also pulled my old 238 242 XER cam our of my 383 for a little softer turbo cam. Cam/lifters looked great with 17k miles on it. Rotella t6 is just a great all around oil. I'm sure some could protect better, but t6 is easy to get and seems to perform well with a decent price to boot.
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Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 3,582
Likes: 137
From: SoCal CA
FWIW: I run a cam with .643 lift on both sides and solid lobes in my hydraulic setup. They are actually softer than hydraulic lobes. I also run Morel link bar lifters, PAC 1521 springs, pushrods the size of your finger and YT rockers (coming out soon) and I NEVER take my car above 2k RPM until oil temp reaches 150 degrees. I like the springs to be nice and warm before tasked heavily.
I do run a Dewitts rad with oil cooler. Strokers make heat.
I do run a Dewitts rad with oil cooler. Strokers make heat.
Another option is using half a bottle of Lucas Break-in additive on every oil change. Lucas claims a whole bottle will bring zddp levels to 5000ppm with 4.5 of regular oil. Thats overkill for a LS motor so half of that should be plenty especially if mixed with an oil like Rotella and its only $8.99 a bottle. Only thing you usually have to order it whereas VR1 is carried by most autoparts stores.
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...tve_TBzinc.pdf
Last edited by C5Natie; Dec 11, 2012 at 02:05 AM.