What am I doing wrong?
A month or so back I had the transmission fluid checked and it was given a thumbs up as clean and good to go for a while longer. Also about a month ago I did a clutch fluid swap using the Ranger method. Yes, I know, it probably needs done again, but my stock shifter was not giving me these kind of problems.
It's a 99 with a basic stock set up except for a CAI system and 71K miles. The only work that's been done recently was the car was lowered and an alignment was done. Both of those were done BEFORE changing the shifter.
I'm hoping it's just operator error but I'm open to comments.
Did you perform a proper shift box alignment? You do this by first making sure your neutral peg is pushed down to lock the shifter. Then, you loosen all three torx bolts (two on the box and one holding the shift linkage rod). Once everything is aligned you first tighten the two bolts on the shift box and then you tighten the one holding the shift rod. When you remove the neutral peg, it should come up very easily. The torx bolts should be torqued to 22 ft-lbs.





For what ever reason,,,,, your not properly getting the correct throw/ rotation on that shift rod.
I have found a couple of things that can cause that:
1- The two bolts that secure the shift box to the torque tube are not tight OR the rubber bushings that isolate the box from the torque tube are worn/damaged or missing. (NON ZO6) ZO6 uses solid steel bushings (not rubber)

2- The bolts that secure the top shifter plate to the box are loose, wrong ones or too short. Make SURE that the top of the shifter is tight on the box.
3- The black plastic spacer on the shift handle ball needs to fit in the shift yoke with out excessive clearances:


4- Shift box neutral alignment:

5- Shift box rod to linkage rod improper make up (slop between the two rods alowing movement between the two rods (lost motion)
Check all of that
BC
Did you perform a proper shift box alignment? You do this by first making sure your neutral peg is pushed down to lock the shifter. Then, you loosen all three torx bolts (two on the box and one holding the shift linkage rod). Once everything is aligned you first tighten the two bolts on the shift box and then you tighten the one holding the shift rod. When you remove the neutral peg, it should come up very easily. The torx bolts should be torqued to 22 ft-lbs.


I'll give things another look based on the information y'all have provided.
Thanks.
I'll give things another look based on the information y'all have provided.
Thanks.
Play with the alignment and make sure the holes where the alignment pin goes are lined up when it's in neutral and in the 3-4 gate. You can get it closer if you throw the pin away and eyeball it.
I checked the bolts on the plate that's attached to the box. I checked the "****" that goes in the socket inside the shift box. I made sure the plastic triangle on the bottom of the box was seated in the slot. I took out the three hex bolts and put the two on the shift box in first for the reassembly, then inserted the one on the linkage after aligning the hole correctly. I made sure everything was good and tight then put everything back together and took it out for a spin. First and second were no problem, third and fourth a breeze, fifth and six seemed a bit stubborn, but then again, I'm factoring in my novice experience with this set up.
I'll see how things go over the next couple of days. Plan to change the clutch fluid and make sure it's nice and clean before making a final determination.
Thanks to everyone for their assistance. Mr. Curlee's "write up" was very helpful and I'm very much appreciative of George from MGW giving me his thoughts even though I'm not using his shifter but did get some great tips from the videos on his site.
Thanks again!
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