Clutch engagement problems
Im having an issue with my 98 6-spd. Its clutch is engaging all the way at the top of the pedal throw. It did it when I bought the car so I bought a new LS7 clutch thinking it was the clutch in the car and its still doing it. Its got a TICK master cylinder but when I adjust the little levers on the back of the cylinder it just moves the pedal, not changing the engagement points. Its got a speed-bleeder line and the fluid is a dark brown/black color. Its also exceptionally hard to get into reverse and 1st gear. Does it need to be bled?





If,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you have the peddle adjustment adjusted properly (enough length to provide the correct master piston volume),,, You have a clutch issue!!!
Jack the rear of the car and support it on jack stands. Start the engine, put it in first, and fully depress the clutch. If the tires still spin, apply the hand brake. If it significantly loweres the engine IDLE,, your clutch is NOT fully disengaged..
Extend the master cylinder adjustment rod a few more turns and try again until you no longer have engine to drive train coupling.
Report back your findings
If,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, you have the peddle adjustment adjusted properly (enough length to provide the correct master piston volume),,, You have a clutch issue!!!
Jack the rear of the car and support it on jack stands. Start the engine, put it in first, and fully depress the clutch. If the tires still spin, apply the hand brake. If it significantly loweres the engine IDLE,, your clutch is NOT fully disengaged..
Extend the master cylinder adjustment rod a few more turns and try again until you no longer have engine to drive train coupling.
Report back your findings
I can extend it long enough that it will not allow the clutch pedal hit the switch to allow the car to start but its still all the way at the top of its throw
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If you don't have enough, you will not properly disengage.. With too much shim, you will always be into the pressure plate fingers and you will slip under power and burn up the clutch.
I measured my clearances FOUR times just to be positive that I had the correct measurements. TICK now offers various thickness shims so that you can have better adjustment.
Measure twice install ONCE!
I am having this very same issue right now... I lost another clutch to this issue and I don't want to loose my McLeod Clutch.
The issue could be that the slave cylinder is too big.... or something.
If you add a shim to your slave...it will NOT engage!!!
Last edited by The Highlander; Jan 5, 2013 at 10:26 PM.





I am having this very same issue right now... I lost another clutch to this issue and I don't want to loose my McLeod Clutch.
The issue could be that the slave cylinder is too big.... or something.
If you add a shim to your slave...it will NOT engage?
HighlanderX
If you have TOO MUCH shim OR not enough clearance between the slave / throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers, the clutch will only engage at the high peddle.. Clutch slippage will be the most likely result
if you don't have enough shim (too much clearance BETWEEN THE SLAVE AND FINGERS) you will have a LOW peddle engagement. Most likely POOR shifting and gear grinding.
Thats a fact..
BC
If you have TOO MUCH shim OR not enough clearance between the slave / throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers, the clutch will only engage at the high peddle.. Clutch slippage will be the most likely result
if you don't have enough shim (too much clearance BETWEEN THE SLAVE AND FINGERS) you will have a LOW peddle engagement. Most likely POOR shifting and gear grinding.
Thats a fact..
BC
Could it have been that I overextended the slave?







