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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 07:58 AM
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Originally Posted by 04 Torch Red Vert
Well I wanted to update you guys about my car. Just got the call this morning from my dealership and said the harmonic balancer went bad but water pump was leaking which was a bonus but both covered under warranty, yayyyy. Was going to cost me about $1100 but have a $200 deductible which is even better. Thanks guys
Good news!


Might want to grab a lottery ticket, as it appears to be "your day"....
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 03:09 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
Good news!


Might want to grab a lottery ticket, as it appears to be "your day"....
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 03:58 PM
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I'd be asking for the balancer that came off. Not to say I'm not a trusting soul, but I don't trust people at dealerships. Bad balancer that doesn't wobble. Now that's a new one on me.
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
I'd be asking for the balancer that came off. Not to say I'm not a trusting soul, but I don't trust people at dealerships. Bad balancer that doesn't wobble. Now that's a new one on me.

Call me paranoid but if I ever have to let a shop I'm not familiar with do any work on my car, I always mark parts and ask for the originals, that way I know exactly what was and wasn't replaced.
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
Most likely you have an idler pulley that's in need of replacement. Check the tensioner also. Look close, you can see when they're out of line.
That was my guess too
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 04 Torch Red Vert
Aw man scared now lol. I have another car so its in the garage for now. Looks I will have to take it to the dealership

It is not a hard repair if you have some basic tools. Make sure you get a new balancer, crank seal and belt.
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Old Jan 11, 2013 | 10:43 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by thmehr
It is not a hard repair if you have some basic tools. Make sure you get a new balancer, crank seal and belt.

How hard is it to move the steering rack?

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1

Installation procedure:

-if the balancer is not already on, it may help to heat it to about 150* or so, just prior to installing it. Some people put it in the oven, some put it in boiling water. When I did mine, I didn't heat it at all.

-once balancer is on the crank and as straight as possible, install the old bolt.

-tighten the old bolt to 240 ft lbs to seat the balancer.

-to check if it is seated properly, the end of the crank should be recessed in the balancer .094 - .176 inches (or 2.40 - 4.48 mm)

-once seated, install the new bolt and torque to 37 ft lbs.

-then, using a torque angle meter, tighten the bolt 140*. You can buy a cheap angle meter at any auto parts store for about $10.

-you're done

Last edited by Got uid0; Jan 11, 2013 at 10:46 PM.
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 03:30 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by K-Spaz
I'd be asking for the balancer that came off. Not to say I'm not a trusting soul, but I don't trust people at dealerships. Bad balancer that doesn't wobble. Now that's a new one on me.

I hear ya man.

Originally Posted by thmehr
It is not a hard repair if you have some basic tools. Make sure you get a new balancer, crank seal and belt.
I dont have room in my small 2 car garage and never done this haha. Im a newbie when it comes to working on them but thanks.
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 07:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Got uid0
How hard is it to move the steering rack?

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=1
I've been contemplating swapping out my balancer before it gives me trouble. I read the above linked article, and it says to pull the rack from the right side of the car. I thought I read here at CF, that you remove it from the left side. Does it make a difference?
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I've been contemplating swapping out my balancer before it gives me trouble. I read the above linked article, and it says to pull the rack from the right side of the car. I thought I read here at CF, that you remove it from the left side. Does it make a difference?
I've also read on CF that some people could remove their rack without dropping the front crossmember and others had to drop their front crossmember 1/4"-1/2" for clearance. Also, the above post and LS1howto suggests using the old bolt to "pull" the new balancer on Get the proper tool and avoid destroying your crank threads.
IMHO the LS1howto guide is good as visual supplement for the actual FSM procedure, but that's about it.
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