When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have a 2001 six speed. It's had a rough life with sticky pedal shifting at high rpms etc. Fixed that with spec clutch years ago.
Now at 125,000 it is hard to get in first, goes half way then need to let clutch out slightly to get all the way in. Has random grinding shifting from 3-4 or 5-6. Yesterday it made a racket in neutral or in gear. Engine OFF in neutral pushing car it would grind then not, then grind, etc.
I realize this is hard to diagnose, as I'm an ex master ASE tech I feel like I should be able to figure it out, but could it be linkage or shifter?
Guessing trans is trashed......it's had a hard life
I have a 2001 six speed. It's had a rough life with sticky pedal shifting at high rpms etc. Fixed that with spec clutch years ago.
Now at 125,000 it is hard to get in first, goes half way then need to let clutch out slightly to get all the way in. Has random grinding shifting from 3-4 or 5-6. Yesterday it made a racket in neutral or in gear. Engine OFF in neutral pushing car it would grind then not, then grind, etc.
I realize this is hard to diagnose, as I'm an ex master ASE tech I feel like I should be able to figure it out, but could it be linkage or shifter?
Guessing trans is trashed......it's had a hard life
Here are my thoughts. Try rebleading the master and slave.. If that doesn't show any air in the system. make sure that your master cylinder isn't failing. What type of master do you have?
As for the noise,, I have a spec duel disk and by nature, its a little more noisier than a standard single disk clutch. Could just be the springs in the disk dampening system being a little loose.
If you happen to have a TICK Master, give it a little more peddle travel and see if that makes the shift better. If your not getting a full clutch disk disengagement that will cause rough sluggish shifts.
When was the last time that you changed your trans fluid. After resolving this issue, give that a try and see if that makes a difference. AMSOIL Torque drive ATF works like a champ!
After I pressed the SEND BUTTON,, I thought of something else. Examine your shifter and shift box. Make sure that the bushings that mount the box to the torque tube are in good shape and firm. Make sure that the four bolts that secure the shift lever to the box are tight.
Lube the shaft and make sure that there isnt any slop in the shift yoke inside the box:
I have an 03Z that was doing the same thing with 127K. It had a Tick master a bleader valve and Monster stage 2. I pulled the coveroff the shifter because I ordered a new 427 short throw shifter. there were 3 bolts in my shifter. 1 was half way out the other 2 were loose. The shifter and royal purple syncromax helped some but it still had the first gear Some times it worked great others it would grind or you had to come to a stop. I just put a rebuilt MN6 in. I road race but I wanted the same gears as the c6. Im charged and have lots of other performance crap on there. I hope this new tranny works. I stepped up to level 3 monster Puck clutch. This should be great for DD. Good luck.
I have an 03Z that was doing the same thing with 127K. It had a Tick master a bleader valve and Monster stage 2. I pulled the coveroff the shifter because I ordered a new 427 short throw shifter. there were 3 bolts in my shifter. 1 was half way out the other 2 were loose. The shifter and royal purple syncromax helped some but it still had the first gear Some times it worked great others it would grind or you had to come to a stop. I just put a rebuilt MN6 in. I road race but I wanted the same gears as the c6. Im charged and have lots of other performance crap on there. I hope this new tranny works. I stepped up to level 3 monster Puck clutch. This should be great for DD. Good luck.
Where did you get it rebuilt and how much did it cost?
I got one from a forum member for 1500 delivered. He is a great guy.
I talk to him on the phone and it had 3K on it. I put the shift rod in upside down and now I have to tear it all apart and do a 180 flip. Then put it back together hopefully today. Then go drive it.
Sounds as much like a clutch issue as a tranny issue to me. When you replaced your clutch did you replace the master cylinder? Mine gave out at Watkins Glen in July 11 at about the 10 year point on the car. Took me a while to figure out that was the problem, but as soon as I changed the master cylinder, all my shifting problems were fixed. Clearly could be tranny, but I wouldn't rule out the master cylinder.
I put a tick in mine when I changed the clutch and the people at monster said they dont recommend it it was not blead well. I bought a bleader which works great. Now monster is saying use the tick. I haf a level 2 ladt 15 k of dailey driving the 18 lbs flywheel is fine the preasure plate is fine. Looks like a new clutch except for the 4 cracks in it. So I bought a stage 3 and a new tob .the one that came with it came apart. The new tob look much better than the stock ones I did not realky want to go with a puck clutch but I was not going to spend another 600.00 on another clutch assemly. I never once complained or ask for anything free from them. Its going on its maiden voyage today.
Congrats to Monster for making a great clutch. Their stage 3 drove like a regular clutch just like they said. I guess the stage 2 was just a fluke with the material cracking. The trans works great except its hard to get into reverse. Can someone tell me if this is just an adjustment or should I put the stock shifter back in. I have a new TPS 427 shifter. This was a complete shifter not just the stick. It worked great with my old MN12. Maybe its just an adjustment or I need to drive it some more. 5th and 6th are a little tight. However Reverse is really tough. Your input would be appreciated.