Water Pump replacement - bleed value locations
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 172
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From: West Des Moines Iowa
Water Pump replacement - bleed valve locations
I just replaced the waterpump on my 97. One of the last items you are to do per the shop manual is to bleed the air from the engine by opening the two bleed valves until the water is cirulated out. Does anyone know where the two bleed valves are located? I assume they are toward the top of the engine. :rolleyes:
[Modified by mitchmark, 6:42 PM 6/12/2002]
[Modified by mitchmark, 6:42 PM 6/12/2002]
Tech Contributor
Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 41,036
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From: Charlotte, NC (formerly Endicott, NY)
Re: Water Pump replacement - bleed valve locations (mitchmark)
My GM manual does not say anything about bleed valves. It gives a procedure for getting the air out of the system which involves running the engine and cycling through an rpm range.
Bill
Bill
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
If I recall correctly, my manual has a similar reference. However, there are no bleed screws to my knowledge. I usually have the front of the car on blocks when I change the fluid and leave the cap off during the first heat cycle. Never had an issue with trapped air in the system.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 242
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From: Topeka Kansas
Coolant Bled
There are no bled valves on a C5. The procedure in the book is easy and works. I don't have time right now to write out the procedure from the book but I can tell you how to start. I will write it out after work today if you are still having trouble.
Start out with the tank full up to the bottom of the neck below the cap. Leave the cap off and start the engine. Let it run 1 minute. Check the coolant level and refill if needed. Put the cap back on and run the motor up to around 3 grand a couple times over a couple minutes. Then recheck and fill. That will get you started. Just watch the temp and coolant level. You may have to repeat the steps. Just don't pull the cap off with the engine up to temp and the motor not running if you need to refill later.
Start out with the tank full up to the bottom of the neck below the cap. Leave the cap off and start the engine. Let it run 1 minute. Check the coolant level and refill if needed. Put the cap back on and run the motor up to around 3 grand a couple times over a couple minutes. Then recheck and fill. That will get you started. Just watch the temp and coolant level. You may have to repeat the steps. Just don't pull the cap off with the engine up to temp and the motor not running if you need to refill later.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,458
Likes: 105
From: Northville Michigan
Oh contrare, there are bleed valves on the LS cylinder heads:
These ports on early C5s are connected by a metal tube assembly that runs under the intake manifold. On later C5s only the front two ports are connected by tubing and they pass under the throttle body and over to the radiator on the upper right corner.
The idea is to open these ports to allow air to escape from the upper passages of the cylinder head's cooling passages.
.
These ports on early C5s are connected by a metal tube assembly that runs under the intake manifold. On later C5s only the front two ports are connected by tubing and they pass under the throttle body and over to the radiator on the upper right corner.
The idea is to open these ports to allow air to escape from the upper passages of the cylinder head's cooling passages.
.
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Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 118
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From: Tampa Florida
Baby hasn't burped yet
I have a 2000 vert and have been following this thread now because after a successful change of my a/c comp I am now running a water temp of 240. I have tried the aformentioned procedures and have about 5 heat cycles behind me but no change. The syst was empty except for what was left in the block, I added 1 gal dexcool and 3/4 gall of dist water. Res is half full, I have opened the cap to let out air, revved over 3000 rpm. With air off(no heat from cond) and the fans kick on the air blast from the fans is not that hot, all the heat is in the engine. I never saw over 200 before, did not touch the thermostat. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,389
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From: somewhere shooting my assault rifles
You might want to read through the following thread:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...erheating.html
Despite the post by Z06supercharged above, it doesn't always work that way.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...erheating.html
Despite the post by Z06supercharged above, it doesn't always work that way.
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 118
Likes: 0
From: Tampa Florida
Thanks 8VETTE7 you know your ****!
I loosened the connector to the drivers side head and had to keep adding water to the res, after about 2 minutes I got fluid. I cracked the right side but got fluid immediately. Torqued to 106 and perfect, the temps cycled between 208 and 217 with the fan coming on low speed in the driveway,A/C off. I can't believe this is not common knowledge after a waterpump change. Now me and my car are running cool.
