This past week has been frustrating with my vette. I have a 1999 with a manual transmission. Sunday my car would not start so I jumped it and it started great. I took it to O'Reillys Auto Parts and had the battery tested and I was told it was a good battery; I was also told the starter was good. It then ran all day Sunday and Monday. Monday night I was driving home and my DIC read "Service ABS" about 10 min into driving. Shortly after that I got a "Low Voltage" message in my DIC and 10 secs later I had lost all power. I had no interior lights, exterior lights, power steering, abs, nothing. Luckily I rolled into a Dairy Queen parking lot where I got it jumped again and it started right up. 10 feet later it lost all power again.

The next day I went back to work on it. I tried jumping it and go nothing. I removed the battery and the alternator and took them to get tested. The alternator was bench tested twice and was good. The battery (800 CCA) read 620, then 1090, then 790, then 595. I replaced the battery thinking it was a bad cell. I cleaned the battery terminal connectors and installed the new battery and put my alternator back in. The car started and ran great.

Yesterday (Friday), I parked it at night and my E-Brake didn't catch so I went to start it again and got nothing. I jumped it and drove it home.

This morning, (Saturday) I could not start it in the morning, then 2 hours later I tried again and it started right up. I let it run for 10 min then shut it off and tried starting again and got nothing. It hasn't started since.

I read my codes
A0-LDCM B2252H, B2282H, B2284H
A1-RDCM B2283H, B2285H
B0-RFA U1255H, U1096H, U1064H, U1016H

I think most of the codes are a result of the battery dying/replacement. B2252 (Key Cylinder Switch Fault) is the one I think I should be worried about.

I went to relearn the VATS but my security light does not blink or turn on after the gauges have swept (it is on as the gauges are sweeping).

Thanks for the help!

 

Here are the facts and I strongly recommend that you carefully examine the areas where i point out.

The battery and alternator are tied together THRU the starter SOLINOID> The connections on the solenoid are critical and must be clean and tight.

Heres the proof:



ALL the connections from the battery terminals to the Alternator B+ terminal on the back of the alternator MUST be claean and TIGHT. They are low voltage HIGH CURRENT connections and if they are loose/dirty or damaged, they will burn up.



Chech those connections!!

BC

 

Bill,

I checked the connection (there's only 1) on the back of my alternator and checked the plug as well. Both are good to go. I am seeing 12.25 V to the B+ on the alternator. I can't check current with my multimeter only 10A max. What is the picture above of? It doesnt look like my alternator.

What would be my next diagnostic step? Thanks

 

C8onnections ON the starter solenoid!!

BC

 

Sorry I am new at all this but I'm gonna guess the starter and starter solenoid are located underneath the car towards the front? If so I will need to get a jack and jack stands. Slowly building a library of tools and parts...

 

Correct. Actually located at the right-rear of the engine (passenger side).

Caution: DO NOT attempt to tighten, or check for tightness, the positive battery cable located on the back of the solenoid without FIRST disconnecting the Negative battery cable from the battery!

 

Ok thank you I will be working on it today hopefully getting some good results. Also I'm going to try and check all grounds.

 

I found my problem, the negative stud on the terminal housing of the starter solenoid cracked and was dangling in space. Any suggestion on whether to just replace the solenoid or the entire starter? Thanks for the help Bill

 

If money is tight the solenoid is all you really need if you can find it. High mileage and I would just replace the whole unit.

 

Just a quick update and question.

I replaced the solenoid, found a little shop that gave me one for $25. Car started up great and runs great (sounds awesome without the exhaust on there too ha).

I had a quick question on reinstalling the stock exhaust. There is a gap between the 2 three bolt triangle connectors right after the headers, I just wanted to make sure that was correct. I can't remember what it looked like when I took it apart. Also I torqued those bolts to 50 ft-lb and wanted to make sure that was right thanks!

 

You can't have any gaps there as it will leak. You will probably be able to hear it after the mufflers are connected. Loosen it up and shift things around until you can get it to fit.