Clutch replacement problems
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
Clutch replacement problems
I have an 02 Z06 and I just replaced my clutch with a new OEM kit (flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate, pilot bearing and slave cylinder/release bearing). I am having a heck of a time putting the torque tube back on. I thought at first it was a slight misalignment with the disc and pilot bearing due to slight slop in the plastic alignment tool. I took the inspection cover off the bell housing and what appears to happening is that the release bearing is making contact with the fingers on the pressure plate and the slave cylinder assembly is bottoming out before the shaft is inserted all of the way through into the pilot bearing (I have about 3/4" gap between the torque tube and the bell housing). The only way for the torque tube to be inserted all of the way is to compress the fingers on the pressure plate.
What am I doing wrong?
What am I doing wrong?
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
are you absolutely sure you don't have the pilot in backwards?
Here is an older post.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-pictures.html
Here is an older post.
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...-pictures.html
Last edited by bumble-z; Jan 20, 2013 at 12:35 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
I'm sure - it went in the exact way that the old one came out, and is flush with the crank.
It seems to be an issue with the clearance of the release bearing and the pressure plate, but I looked at the old parts and the new parts and they seem identical.
As I insert the torque tube, the release bearing makes contact with the fingers on the pressure plate and the release bearing bottoms out with about 3/4" to go before the torque tube is seated on the bell housing.
It seems to be an issue with the clearance of the release bearing and the pressure plate, but I looked at the old parts and the new parts and they seem identical.
As I insert the torque tube, the release bearing makes contact with the fingers on the pressure plate and the release bearing bottoms out with about 3/4" to go before the torque tube is seated on the bell housing.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
But the plastic piece below the bearing bottoms out on the housing and can't go in any further.
Something doesn't seem right. Is the release bearing supposed to ride on the fingers of the pressure plate all the time? I haven't seen that before.
Something doesn't seem right. Is the release bearing supposed to ride on the fingers of the pressure plate all the time? I haven't seen that before.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
This is what I am seeing:
The gap between the bell hosing and the torque tube is about 3/4" larger than how much the release bearing can depress before the plastic piece below it bottoms out against the base of the slave cylinder.
The gap between the bell hosing and the torque tube is about 3/4" larger than how much the release bearing can depress before the plastic piece below it bottoms out against the base of the slave cylinder.
Last edited by txst; Jan 20, 2013 at 01:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
A better picture once the input shaft is slid onto the clutch disc:
You can see that the plastic under the bearing is almost bottomed out (there is approximately 1/4" to go, but the gap to the bell housing is well over an inch. Not even close to having the dowels engage.
Ignore the long bolts I have in there - I am not drawing the torque tube onto the bell housing. I was just using them to compress the release bearing spring.
You can see that the plastic under the bearing is almost bottomed out (there is approximately 1/4" to go, but the gap to the bell housing is well over an inch. Not even close to having the dowels engage.
Ignore the long bolts I have in there - I am not drawing the torque tube onto the bell housing. I was just using them to compress the release bearing spring.
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
I am definitely not in the pilot bearing - the release bearing is bottoming out in it's travel, preventing the input shaft from being inserted into the pilot bearing. If you look at the black plastic piece in the second photo which slides under the release bearing, it's almost at the base of the actuator, but I have at least another 1" to go into the bell housing. It's as if the pressure plate fingers are too far away from the flywheel. I expect that small gap in the second photo to be the clearance when the torque tube is attactched to the bell housing. I have looked at the new parts and they seem to be the same as the old ones - they were stock LS6 parts from Gene Culley on the board. I measured the clutch actuator/release bearing and it is the same as my old one.
I know something is wrong, I just can't figure out what it is. With that gap between the torque tube and the bell housing, the release bearing should not be at the bottom of it's travel, otherwise the clutch disc won't be fully engaged.
I am really stumped here and I want to get my car back together.
I know something is wrong, I just can't figure out what it is. With that gap between the torque tube and the bell housing, the release bearing should not be at the bottom of it's travel, otherwise the clutch disc won't be fully engaged.
I am really stumped here and I want to get my car back together.
Last edited by txst; Jan 20, 2013 at 05:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,077
Likes: 4
From: Scarborough ONTARIO
at this point you need a jack and another jack or bottle jack both on tT side and Engine oil pan side, use wood or hard rubber for cushion, both TT and Engine needs to be tilted like in mm very slowly and also use Flywheel turning tool or even flat screw driver works and get the 6" C-clamp, Flywheel needs to be turn barely a mm or so, lots patience here and deep breath.
Once TT shaft aligned in Pilot bearing hole try pulling TT using C-clamp it has to go smooth (not really smooth, a very slight i mean slight resistance is OK, use some kind grease but not oil.....do not grease liberally..no way grease going to pressure plate or disc area those need be dry and brake clean librally on disc surface and flywheel surface).
Once TT shaft aligned it goes either someone pushing from Diff area or if you by yourself use C-clamp and good good light and some patience, yeah you get the feel you wont make it...eventually you will make it.
Once TT shaft aligned in Pilot bearing hole try pulling TT using C-clamp it has to go smooth (not really smooth, a very slight i mean slight resistance is OK, use some kind grease but not oil.....do not grease liberally..no way grease going to pressure plate or disc area those need be dry and brake clean librally on disc surface and flywheel surface).
Once TT shaft aligned it goes either someone pushing from Diff area or if you by yourself use C-clamp and good good light and some patience, yeah you get the feel you wont make it...eventually you will make it.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,077
Likes: 4
From: Scarborough ONTARIO
Watch dowel pins on Left and right side of bell housing, just to let you know bell housing do not have to come for clutch replacement, if they misaligned use jack and tilt engine side or TT side barely little, once they dowel pins aligned....next step to align TT shaft splines thru Pilot bearing, for that flywheel need be turned barely little followed by C-clamp pull both of em....bolt it, torque it done...this 2 steps alone will take easily couple hrs....very patience.
This is great shows with pictures,
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...-installation/
This is great shows with pictures,
http://tech.corvettecentral.com/2011...-installation/
Last edited by sami85L98; Jan 20, 2013 at 05:40 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
But the problem is that the release bearing is out of travel before the input shaft can get to the pilot bearing. Look at the second photo, and follow the actuator return spring on the left side. Right there you can see the plastic sleeve below the release bearing is only about 1/8" from the limit of it's travel, but the torque tube needs to be inserted another 3/4-1". This is what is preventing the insertion, not that things are not lining up. I have a consistent gap all around (checked with a set of calipers). It won't go in because of the release bearing.
The pressure plate fingers are not compressed when the torque tube is in, right? In other words, the only pressure against the pressure plate from the release bearing is from the return spring in the clutch actuator. Correct?
The pressure plate fingers are not compressed when the torque tube is in, right? In other words, the only pressure against the pressure plate from the release bearing is from the return spring in the clutch actuator. Correct?
Last edited by txst; Jan 20, 2013 at 06:08 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 8,077
Likes: 4
From: Scarborough ONTARIO
Well cant remember release bearing howmuch it being travel or protrude, however have you measured?
here is the thread in Ls1tech:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html
here is the thread in Ls1tech:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
Thanks a lot for your help. I'll take the measurements and see what I get.
I did check the distance from the back of the flywheel teeth to the surface of the pressure plate fingers - both the original and the new are identical.
I did check the distance from the back of the flywheel teeth to the surface of the pressure plate fingers - both the original and the new are identical.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 11,150
Likes: 890
From: South Western Ontario
You are correct about the release bearings and fingers. If you had it together, the fully compressed throwout bearing/slave assembly should be about 1/16" to 1/8" from touching the clutch fingers. The spring then holds the bearing against the fingers and is the only thing putting pressure on the fingers.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 143
Likes: 3
From: Wichita KS
Well cant remember release bearing howmuch it being travel or protrude, however have you measured?
here is the thread in Ls1tech:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html
here is the thread in Ls1tech:
http://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tra...need-shim.html
Does anyone know what these dimensions typically are???
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
From: Chino CA
OK - Something is way wrong. The distance from the pressure plate fingers to the mating surface of the bell housing is approximately 1.9" When I compress the release bearing all the way down, the distance from the surface of the release bearing to the torque tube mounting surface is approximately 2.3"
Does anyone know what these dimensions typically are???
Does anyone know what these dimensions typically are???
Last edited by battery1882; Apr 22, 2013 at 02:14 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 102
Likes: 0
I feel your pain. Just got done doing this but the opposite way(lining the engine up with the torque tube. took 3 people and a lot of wiggling the engine, adjusting the engine lift and jack on the torque tube. Cant really tell whats going on from your pics but here are a few pics to make sure u are about what and what....
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,938
Likes: 65
From: Rochester Hills MI
Did you mess with the pressure plate adjustment cams at all? This could also be the issue.