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Quick question - I have a 99 FRC with the stock Z51 suspension and run-craps. On spirited drives, if I hit a bump or large expansion joint in the middle of a corner the car feels like it "Jumps" sideways about 3 feet. It catches and hangs on, but it does not inspire confidence !
I didn't even notice these bumps in my Porsche. Is this a function of the run-flat tires, the shocks, or both?
Any help is appreciated.
There are a bunch of things that could cause that type of feeling - Is the turn off camber ? How old are your tires, what type, condition and inflation pressure ? How many miles on car and what is condition of shocks and suspension in general ? Are you braking, driving steady state or accelerating through the turn ?
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Originally Posted by CHJ In Virginia
There are a bunch of things that could cause that type of feeling - Is the turn off camber ? How old are your tires, what type, condition and inflation pressure ? How many miles on car and what is condition of shocks and suspension in general ? Are you braking, driving steady state or accelerating through the turn ?
Also, lose the plastic anti-rollbar end links you have too. You may even have a broken/loose one anyway.
What is the MPH entering the corner ?
Is the bump before you hit the brakes ? during ? or after ?
The Z51 suspension is great for hi speed cornering-But may be too stiff for corners less than 70 MPH--Does your car have a suspension mode switch ?
Many reasons for a sidways hop---I assume you mean the "rear" hops sideways ?
As mentioned you may have broken or just even the plastic end links--You need the metal ones--Also other mods that aid in keeping the car flat in the corners is installing poly bushings ( they claim it adds 25% to the bar) and a solid trans mount --that reduces rearend to fame flex
Also is the bump clear accross the track ? or does it hit only the left or right sides ?
Thanks for the replies - answers to the questions:
The car is "new to me" - the last owner did not put many miles on it over the last 8 years
Steady state or mild acceleration - think "corner out" - yes, the rear is what is stepping out.
100k miles.
Tires are not original but are several years old. (5+) 35 psi.
All original suspension with plastic end links, NOT lowered. No suspension mode switch.
Not sure on the last alignment. What are good alignment specs for the street ?
Side note - I have 10+ years of DE experience with the Porsche club of America. This is not a "driver induced" condition.
Thanks !
Last edited by brrgrr951; Jan 28, 2013 at 10:17 PM.
I had a similar issue during a curved on-ramp for my morning commute. Once I replaced the stock shocks with the Bilsteins, it no longer did this.
Depending on the mileage of your car, the shocks probably need to be replaced anyway. It is not a bad install.
How many miles are on the car? Have you had any work performed recently? If your alignment is off or eccentric bolts are loose that would definitely send you off a bump. Tires would not do that unless they are rock hard but even still, they would more loose traction than shoot you a few feet.
Probably mostly the old shocks and the higher tire pressure but the GY run flats really aren't the greatest tire and any older high performance tire won't have the same grip as new tires.
As far as alignment. I'd say around 0.4* camber, 0.1* toe in and around 7* caster in the front with maybe 0.2* or 0.3* more in the right side to compensate for road crown. 0.1* toe in is per corner = 0.2* toe in total per axle.
Don't accept "within spec", you want the numbers to be equal all around. As an example, the caster spec will likely have a 1* range and you certainly don't want a wheel on each side set at opposite sides of this "within spec" range.
Last edited by lionelhutz; Jan 29, 2013 at 06:57 PM.
all of these things not setup right can cause that, also, even if all else is set up well, you can get Bump Steer in these cars....I'd check the alignment and ride height issues, and look into getting a Bump Steer kit put on
as a side note, DRM makes an alluminum steering rack bushing that makes steering and curves a lot better, as do poly bushings on all the control arms.
if you want to get anywhere near the steering response of your porsche, you will want poly bushings on the control arms and the upgraded steering rack bushing to go along with a good alignment and tires.
Thanks for the replies. I'll stick to the basics - Tires, Shocks, Alignment - and go from there.
C6 Z06 shocks, a good set of non run flat tires and a good alignment will probably do the trick.
I'm not expecting to match the steering feel of the Porsche, but this "bump steer" is downright evil. I wouldn't even think about tracking the car with it handling the way it is right now ! The good news is I can pick up a whole set of C6 Z06 shocks for the price of one Porsche brake rotor. lol.
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
My Coil overs fixed that.
No jumping when hitting a bump going around a turn.
No more body roll, no front end dip at a stop light, and more comfortable ride overall.
Better handling was a bonus.
Thanks for the replies. I'll stick to the basics - Tires, Shocks, Alignment - and go from there.
C6 Z06 shocks, a good set of non run flat tires and a good alignment will probably do the trick.
You might also consider upgrading the sway bars and end links. Many of us have gone to the C6 Z51 sway bars with good results. [Seems the C6 Z06 bars are a bit too stiff unless you're going to frequently track the car.]
The good news is I can pick up a whole set of C6 Z06 shocks for the price of one Porsche brake rotor. lol.
and therein lies the glory of these cars :-)
they are like a box of lego's
you can build them in endless variations, and create a truly world class performance machine for comparatively little $$$ if you choose to.
I'd go with Bilstein Sports for the shocks, great price and better performance driving than the C6Zo6 shocks, but not so aggressive as to make the car uncomfortable.
More info please.
I can understand how better shocks will keep the rear wheels from bouncing off the ground.
And I dont doubt the sway bar changes help, but I dont understand how. Is the idea to get more weight on the inside tire? That way the car is less upset by a bump because it has better weight distribution? With a lesser sway bar wont the outside tires dig more?
Or are we just talking about replacing old worn out bushings and links to get the handling back to normal?
I think the biggest culprit is run flats. They are hard as a rock. I had a 98 Coupe on run flats that did the same thing. It got me by surprise scooting thru an on-ramp.
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