What suggestions do you have for tasks to complete when the intake manifold is off?

I tried to replace my oil pressure sender without pulling the manifold and got poor results I now need to pull the manifold and rebuild the wire connection I also plan on relocating the sensor

What else should I attend to while I have the intake off? The car is about ten years old now, I've owned it for about a year

I am standing by with a new intake gasket set, which I hope i won't need, but the car is old

 

Add a small extension to the nylon vacuum line at the rear. Three or four inches should do it. Good assortment of parts to choose from in the "Vacu-Tite" section at the AP store. Look for the purple colored display cards.

 

Vacuum all the crap from between the intake runners. And be careful not to spill any dirt or crud into the runners when you pull the manifold off.

 

If you have a manual tranny, take a shot at bleeding the clutch slave cylinder; I read herein it's possible to reach the bleeder from above if the manifold is off.

Clean and check the knock sensors and their seals and wires. I had one sensor cavity full of oil due to a badly installed seal.

There are a couple of strips of foam rubber at the front and back under the manifold, to deter dirt and water intrusion. They will probably be nasty. You can find the exact same stuff in computer equipment packaging (monitors, etc.) If you can find a pretty large piece in the dumpster behind the electronics store, cut it to fit the entire underside of the manifold - keeps water and dirt out better, protects wires, and helps heat-insulate the manifold (good for at least 10 bench-race ponies).

DG

 

Replace or reroute the passenger side check valve that is behind the driver side cylinder head.

 

Interesting, can anyone confirm this, having been successful in your attempt?

 

lots of good suggestions here, I agree, clean it up well. You may need to buy a new gasket set. That vacuum line is a pain, but extending it can make life easier.

 

Bogus.

 

Get some purple power or simple green and spray that around the intake manifold and let it sit for a few min then blast it with a water hose, that will get a lot of the crud out from around the manifold before you pull it. You might have to do it a few times.

 

I wrote a procedure to install a FAST 92 intake.
You can use my procedure on how to pull off your old one and put it back on. All the torque specs too. Bunch of tips in my procedure that will help.

www.ToqueZ06.com

Fast 92 intake, and LS2 Throttle Body Install Procedure:

Good luck !
Toque

 

Heads and cam.

 

I haven't done it with mine, but this is what I found and posted in an earlier thread.

I stumbled across something from the C6 sections that sounded interesting. The text says it works for C5 and C6. I have never seen this method discussed in the C5 section, but it sounds a lot better than what most do to get to the bleeder.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c6-t...ur-clutch.html

Part of it is extracted below. Good luck.


A remote bleeder is nice and convenient but not all of us are willing or able to put a remote bleeder in or quite honestly I don’t know if you can even get one installed without tearing the torque tube and clutch out. So what can we do that is not too labor intensive and wont cost much? or How can we optimize this system and make it last? Whether its the basic STOCK clutch setup or a rather expensive aftermarket clutch this should only help. We are going to tell you how we do it in the car without too much labor.

The easiest way that we have found is to pull the intake manifold for the C5 and C6 Corvettes. We have ported hundreds of manifolds so we have become proficient at pulling intake manifolds. (Total time to clean head ports and put it back on about 45min.) This will allow one to lay in and across the engine bay. With your head right at the firewall with a 9mm combination wrench and a light just barely have enough room to see the port, pop off the rubber cap (leave it off) and open it while someone else is depressing the clutch pedal. Bleed it just like a brake system, one person (A) holds pedal, the other (B) opens the port till fluid pours out and then closes, (A) pumps pedal till firm again and then repeat till fluid is clear, 3-12 cycles. Remember to check the reservoir! Refill it so you do not get any air in the line. Earlier F bodies and GTOs may be accessible from under the car and may not require pulling the intake manifold.

 

Even though I'm not doing anything like that at this time, I took a couple of minutes to look at your write-up....NICE JOB!!

 

I like the way you think.

 

It would seem Jeremy is an advocate of removing the intake manifold and laying across the engine bay to try to reach into an opening on the side of the bell housing to bleed the clutch hydraulics. Good grief!

Maybe he has done it, but this makes the case for a remote bleeder if there ever was one. Imagine doing this every 6 months to a year.
His article does make a good case for air-flow through the bell housing though. I'm also not surprised the C6 has a sleeve over the TB assembly to protect from clutch dust.

 

I agree, but if you don't have a remote bleeder already and your 13 year old system has never been bled completely it would possibly be worth the effort if you were going to be into another mod any way. I know if I were pulling my intake tomorrow I would be willing to try.

 

That's what I was thinking too.

 

Thanks !

 

I changed my oil pressure sensor yesterday. Without reading any of the write ups, the first thing I thought of was extending the HVAC vacuum line. You're right, 4 inches of 1/8" vacuum line, and a barbed connector in the purple package. Makes life a lot easier.

 

Oil pressure sending unit.... maybe a relocate kit?