I've looked at 20 threads about replacing the gear in a headlight, my problem is that in every thread they simply manually crank it open to get to all the screws.

Its the drivers side light. The motor makes noise, the plastic **** spins for about 10 15 seconds likes its really trying to open. But for what ever reason I wont crank open manually, the **** just loosely spins.

I even tried taking the **** off and turning it with pliers just incase the plastic was stripped but that didnt work either.

I almost have the damn casing off the headlight I just need to get that one screw on the fender side. Then I will attempt to rotate the gear to make it so I can drive to work in the morning without getting pulled over until my gears show up.

Thanks in advance

 

What do I rotate? I'm down to try anything

 

Oh yeah I'm definitely pulling as hard as I can without risking damage.. I'm screwed huh?

 

No ones ever had this problem??? Every thread I read claims the person can always manually crank it up... Is it strange that I cant?? If I take the fender off would I be able to get that screw?

 

You might be able to take the access panel underneath the bumper along with the air deflector, move the brake duct out of the way and reach it.

 

I have a similar issue on my 2000 C5, Ive watched a video on youtube on how to replace the gear. My question is there are 2 replacement gear types one is plastic the other is brass, has anyone used the brass gear and is it worth the extra money. I would think that a brass part would last longer and not need to be replaced ever. Also on the video it shows to take the whole headlight unit off completely, is that the way to do it or can I replace the gear without removing it. Thanks any info would be appreciated.

 

It seeems at least one of the suppliers switched to Al to save some cost over the brass. Either is likely about as good as the other. At least one of them has a metal plate to hold the motor together on the gued motor type. I'd be more interesting in getting that part then worrying about brass or AL gear.

I have the bolt-together cases so I used the $10 Dorman plastic part instead of the $40 gears.

Did you try having someone turn on the lights while you pulled up on the headlight?

 

Problem solved.... for now.

Built some ramps at work. jacked her up using a 2x6, Removed the small plastic piece directly under the air duct to the brake.




Gettin to it in the dark because my garage is temporarily without power so no light



Now after this experience I strongly recommend changing the gear as soon as it makes noise instead of waiting like I did . Then you wont have to deal with whats in the next pic. The bolt that releases the arm and allows you to lift the headlight up to expose all the screws needed to take it apart is behind the arm itself. Only allowing for your smallest wrench and 1/2 inch turns for 20 minutes. This also has to be done by feel because theres not enough room to look at it and put your arm up through the bottom past the brak duct. Once this bolt is removed its a piece of cake. (pic is view looking up from bottom past brake air duct)



Once the bolt is removed the light wants to fall and makes it very difficult to start wrenching while holding it up and out of the way. Use the blocks and positions shown in this next pic to make it a breeze by freeing up both hands and holding the light perfectly out of the way while holding the motor snug against the mounting bracket. This works especially well for the re-install. For the bolt that runs through to a nut I just reached through the headlight from the front (right next to the arms for the hood) and got a socket on it and then turned the outside bolt on the motor with a wrench. This will be the only other difficult bolt.



Now tradititionally I'd agree with most guys saying its easier to remove the whole assembly because you dont have to jack the car up BUT if its stuck closed like mine and you already have it in the air just do it this way.. pretty easy with the blocks once you get the bolt for the arm out.

Sadly the gear was cracked and badly stripped so flipping it didn't work but I was atleast able to prop it up for my drive to work in the morning while I wait for my gears to show up in the mail.

Hope this helps anyone with my specific problem, I certainly wasn't able to find anything on it. Junkman from digitalcorvettes.com was a HUGE help getting me started and giving me the confidence in knowing what the hell I was doing. Extremely knowledgeable and friendly guy.