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I'm going to be buying a stall convertor for my A4 this week and I was wondering what everyone thoughts are on them?
what stall speed should I go with? I was thinking 3200.
Also what are some more affordable brands of convertors. Anyone use Circle D? On there website I saw some listed for $400.
would I need to get a tune(mail order tune) after the install?
also what's the going labor rate on installing them?
Last edited by Bluesteve1; Mar 4, 2013 at 09:55 AM.
Any stall ratio less than 3000 is simply a re-worked stock diamter converter --they bend the vanes to achieve the desired range and all the parts are stock-
A conveter above 3000 is a complete new piece-- NON GM part--and always a smaller diamter--The re-worked stock ones are OK for a STOCK engine--But simply won't hold up on modded engines--- I've been using Phoenix Tranmission stalls for years and love them--Better pricing than the over advertised name brands out there---Great warranty
NOTE /WARNING and recommendation!! I strongly recommend taking the extra time and spend the extra cash to replace the rubber torque tube bushings (GUBLIOS)
Ive see too many age deteroriated couplers. I was shocked to see my buddys 2000 A4 coupe couplers in bad shape. He doesnt abuse the car at all. See this post and do it correctly:
When you reinstall the new converter, make sure that is FULL of fluid (pour in as much ATF Dextron that will fit into the new converter) and make sure that the converter is FULLY SEATED into the trans and the transmission oil pump.
If its properly seated , when you turn the converter, it should lightly scrape the three BUMPS that stick out on the trans case behind the converter. You also should not be able to get your fingers to easily fit behind the converter
Let us know how the project turns out.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Curlee; Mar 4, 2013 at 04:52 PM.
I added a stall ~5 years ago. I wanted one because I was going to add a cam and didn't want a 1200 rpm Park idle. I also really didn't want to feel any of the slip during daily driving. I went with a Yank 2800 (btw, they don't make them anymore). None the less, I have been very happy with it's performance. During daily driving it is barely noticable. I definitely feel the "neck snap" during lock up on 3/4 to WOT runs. I even do HPDE events with no issues.
I would highly recommend a trans cooler. I went with a Setraub (25 plate) and bypassed the radiator cooler. Now the trans temps never get over 150 degrees (use to be ~180).
thanks for the advice guys. I will change the torque tube brushing.
I looked into Phoenix Transmission and they have some really decently priced convertors, I will be using them.
any suggestions on the stall speed? I eventually plan on doing heads and cam in the future.
thanks for the advice guys. I will change the torque tube brushing.
I looked into Phoenix Transmission and they have some really decently priced convertors, I will be using them.
any suggestions on the stall speed? I eventually plan on doing heads and cam in the future.
There is so much more to selecting the right torque converter than picking a number that someone suggest on any forum. No disrespect to anyone here intended but I have read so many posts on this topic and not very many cover the basics. Do a little research on how to select the right converter. Your engines displacement, compression ratio, cam profile, rear axle ratio, first gear ratio and overdrive ratio, the true weight of your car and how you are going to use the car. A great t.c. for the strip isn't going to get very good results on a car that is driven on the street most of the time. It’s near impossible to predict precisely how an individual torque converter will behave in your car. You should consult with the manufacturer of the converter you are going to use and the truth about that is, they will get it close but it won't be exact. I have only mentioned a few of the very important details to be considered.