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To preface, car is a 2000 ls1 with TT kit, was previously running fine with no issues.
Went to start car 2 days ago, p0200 code with NO expected p0300 code for misfire present, car ran with drivers side injector bank not functioning on 4 cylinders after code thrown. Attempted the traditional fixes, there was some evidence of rub on the drivers side wiring harness, pulled that apart, no wires worn through re-sealed it ( side does not currently rub as I have modified fuel rail - 60# injectors are 1 month old). did not work.
Checked the fuses 18 and 22, fuse for drivers injectors was blown, replaced it, popped the fuse again. Sorted through the entire harness, pulled pcm and bcm, had them tested, no issues.
the car will not even make it past turning the key to start it, once the key is turned (with motor off) to ignition on position, the fuse instantly pops.
So you have a short somewhere in the injector circuit, get the schematic and start searching, has to be melted/chafed wire(s) that are common to both fuses.
Pull the fuses. Insert an OHM Meter in the circuit side of the fuse holder. the other end to chassis ground. You should see infinity. Since you are blowing fuses, it will be a very low reading like I had.
Move the injector wiring harness manually while watching the OHM Meter and see if you move it and the reading goes to infinity.
I had the exact same issue.. Here is where mine snagged the block:
Pink wire is power and mine was nicked:
Some liquid electrical tape. more tape and some better plastic armor and BAM.. FIXED!
went through the wiring harness, there are no chafed areas, The area where it rubs the factory fuel rail is fine, and I have an modified fuel rail so that bracket is now gone and not rubbing the harness on the drivers side.
Changed the fuel pump relay and changed relay # 42 and miraculously the car started and ran fine, drove for one day. started car next morning and the fuse is popped again.
Several messages including " pull key wait 10 seconds" "low voltage" and "charge fault" pop up on the DIC. I tried to change the relays again like before hoping it would fix it but to no avail.
battery is charged fine, checked grounds G101 102 107 scrubbed and screwed them back in. No corrosion from battery acid on pcm.
The fuel pump comes on when I turn the key, checked my kenne bell BAP and it seems to be working fine, no shorts anywhere.
The fuse pops instantly when I turn the key to the on position before starting the car. If I pull relay 42 and turn the key the fuse does not pop but I get alot of error messages, Relay appears to be working fine, replaced it again, .....nothing. Car will start and fire on the passenger side bank running on only 4 cylinders.
Thanks for your help. I plugged in the ohm meter to the pink wire side and engine ground on the chassis, came up with a short, reading -0.70 or so. Moved around the wiring harness in behind the manifold and there is no fluctuation in the numbers, wiggled the wiring harness, even opened it up to try to see if there were any burnt wires, didnt see anything.
There is definitely a short. Could it be an engine ground? could it be the ignition switch itself?
ok, when i turn the key to the off position and even take the key out, the ohm meter is saying that there is load on the hot side of the injector fuse #22 and not infinity as it should show. Does this mean it is an ignition switch issue?
When I test the fuse 18 for the passenger side there is infinity showing with the key in the off position.
popped wires off each injector and tested again, there is still load on it unless I unplug the coils from the injector harness, so i went 1 by 1 on the coils and they do not show the infinity load drop as expected when I unplug each of them, the injectors are new and coils are fine, took them off and tested them as well.
Heres what happened. I used the ohm-meter to test each step of the way down the wiring harness, where it curves around the back end of the fuel rail ( typical spot it is damaged), and retaped that, still didnt work.
Found that after I unplugged the harness from the injector coupling to the coil packs on the drivers side, that the ohm meter would suddenly go to infinity. After twisting around some of the plugs till it went to infinity again , I opened up the wire loom and found that the pink wire ( isn't it always the f'n pink wire?? lol) had melted somewhat into another coil wire.
pulled them apart, re-taped it, and it seems like its good to go.
leson learned. Also cleaned and repaired the ground to G105, which looked a little suspect on the drivers portion of the block.