clutch master question
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Cypress Texas
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Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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well... wish me luck. just got the part in, super fast btw.
Got the car jacked up and supported wheel and liner out. now just trying to find all the stuff in the lousy pdf provided from tick. What's the connection your supposed to remove in 2? guessing its the wires below the clutch line to help ease removal. Also haven't figured out best way to remove hydraulic line. I see a quick dissconnect or screwdriver, but just looks like a rounded hose.
I'm a tard sometimes.
Got the car jacked up and supported wheel and liner out. now just trying to find all the stuff in the lousy pdf provided from tick. What's the connection your supposed to remove in 2? guessing its the wires below the clutch line to help ease removal. Also haven't figured out best way to remove hydraulic line. I see a quick dissconnect or screwdriver, but just looks like a rounded hose.
I'm a tard sometimes.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 438
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From: Cypress Texas
I think I used a 17 or 19mm open wrench to disconnect the master hydraulic line from the slave connection/line. There is a plastic piece on the MC line that needs to be pushed into the slave coupler to unlock the lines. I used on open wrench as 'disconnect tool' to push that piece in.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 438
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From: Cypress Texas
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i must be missing something. looks like the plastic should just push in. i've pressed, tried using a wrench but guess i may not be pushing enough of it in at once to cause the release?
should it just pop off? tried switching to a screwdriver but worried I'm going to damage it.
edit: got it. ended up making my own tool with a dremel and one of those wrenches you get putting furniture together. always wondered why I kept those around.
should it just pop off? tried switching to a screwdriver but worried I'm going to damage it.
edit: got it. ended up making my own tool with a dremel and one of those wrenches you get putting furniture together. always wondered why I kept those around.
Last edited by chuckie669; Mar 15, 2013 at 10:06 PM.
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worked on this off and on today. got the new clutch master installed to the pedal.
Question, looks like the shipped setup is still shorter than the lowest point of the clutch pedal depressed so it can't be installed. How much did you adjust the rod? I tried to evenly open the top and bottom side of the rod to install, but not sure how much clutch pedal I should be expecting (right now its none).
Question, looks like the shipped setup is still shorter than the lowest point of the clutch pedal depressed so it can't be installed. How much did you adjust the rod? I tried to evenly open the top and bottom side of the rod to install, but not sure how much clutch pedal I should be expecting (right now its none).
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
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From: Belleville Mich.
For those wondering how to disconect/reconnect the Quick Disconnect.
Using these tools.
Long nose vice grips, disconnect/reconnect tool. Size (5/8")Auto Zone.
TOOLS
DISCONNECT SIDE OF TOOL
PUSH IN ON PLASTIC (TOP HAT)
CONNECTING SIDE OF TOOL
TOOL PUSHING ON STEEL (BALL) OF QUICK DISCONNECT
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ditor/bold.gif
Using these tools.
Long nose vice grips, disconnect/reconnect tool. Size (5/8")Auto Zone.
TOOLS
DISCONNECT SIDE OF TOOL
PUSH IN ON PLASTIC (TOP HAT)
CONNECTING SIDE OF TOOL
TOOL PUSHING ON STEEL (BALL) OF QUICK DISCONNECT
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ditor/bold.gif
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 47
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Thanks for the tips. hopefully it will help someone out. I had a buddy come by with some of those to help, but apparently there was no lip on my white plastic piece. Good news is the new slave line Does have a nice one.
got it all put back together (I hope). Really not a lot of pedal movement for the clutch at its current setting. Taking a break, just had a good time learning about hydraulics and how to gravity bleed by myself in the garage. Got it to the point of a steady slow stream for about 30 sec and think I'm done.
After a quick bite, I guess its time to reconnect the slave hose and all the connectors and see what I got.
2 main issues were the clutch pedal 13mm bolts SUCK putting back in. I was praying to baby jesus, budah and anyone else who would listen to get a thread on those things. Not going to share who won.
the other was I tried to cut the stock firewall boot and it just doesn't fit well around the white plastic cap. I got it placed around 80% of the unit and guess its just going to stay like that.
I appreciate all the help guys!
got it all put back together (I hope). Really not a lot of pedal movement for the clutch at its current setting. Taking a break, just had a good time learning about hydraulics and how to gravity bleed by myself in the garage. Got it to the point of a steady slow stream for about 30 sec and think I'm done.
After a quick bite, I guess its time to reconnect the slave hose and all the connectors and see what I got.
2 main issues were the clutch pedal 13mm bolts SUCK putting back in. I was praying to baby jesus, budah and anyone else who would listen to get a thread on those things. Not going to share who won.
the other was I tried to cut the stock firewall boot and it just doesn't fit well around the white plastic cap. I got it placed around 80% of the unit and guess its just going to stay like that.
I appreciate all the help guys!
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big thanks to Dave 03 z06. got it all done and took her for a drive. looks like it's all setup tho the rod needs to be shortened back some.
amazing how much stiffer the new mc is from the stocker. a little stiffer than oem without the assist spring.
at this time looks like there's about three inches from the floor up to where the pedal starts to engage and one inch after that to full release. hopefully shortening the rod will help with that.
amazing how much stiffer the new mc is from the stocker. a little stiffer than oem without the assist spring.
at this time looks like there's about three inches from the floor up to where the pedal starts to engage and one inch after that to full release. hopefully shortening the rod will help with that.