clutch master question
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 47
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clutch master question
what's up guys. been a lurker for some time now, I have a 2000 vette with about 65k miles.
been having intermittent mushy clutch and working the ranger method for some time now. at this point I feel I need to replace the clutch master to see if that resolves the problem.
those that have done this, would you suggest oem or aftermarket? I'm not a crazy driver or big track guy so the tick seems like a lot of work/ cost/ overkill.
haven't found a site to buy from yet so going yall may chime in with any info or sponsors. thanks in advance.
been having intermittent mushy clutch and working the ranger method for some time now. at this point I feel I need to replace the clutch master to see if that resolves the problem.
those that have done this, would you suggest oem or aftermarket? I'm not a crazy driver or big track guy so the tick seems like a lot of work/ cost/ overkill.
haven't found a site to buy from yet so going yall may chime in with any info or sponsors. thanks in advance.
Drifting
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 1,544
Likes: 209
From: Huntersville, NC
mushy clutch
Not sure what you mean by mushy, it may not be your master. What are your symptoms?
You may have air in the slave, and if so a new master won't cure it. Only cure is a bleed job.
You may have air in the slave, and if so a new master won't cure it. Only cure is a bleed job.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 308
Likes: 6
From: Winnetka, CA
I get the occasional pedal-stuck-to-floor problem when driving hard, I at some point plan to replace the OEM master with a Tick adjustable based on lengthy research on this forum and elsewhere. Seems to be the cure-all for that particular problem, assuming the slave cylinder is functioning normally and the fluid isn't toast.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Cypress Texas
The stock MC in these cars is inadequate and prone to issues. I would give the Tick performance MC a try. the Tick MC resolved my issues and I had tried another aftermarket MC as well as an OEM replacement before the Tick. I was about to pull the trans, clutch to replace the slave and inspect the clutch. I have always used the ranger method as well.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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I bought the car with 60k and I'm guessing it had not been cleaned to this point. I started doing the ranger method after my clutch pedal have me a scare and seemed to lose pressure ( best I can explain). I found that it can be replicated by depressing the clutch pedal at an extremely slow speed. pumping the clutch stiffens it back up and normal driving does not cause the issue ( seemed to get me in stop and go traffic)
after about three bottles the fluid looked clean and issues seemed to go away. fast forward about 1k miles and my clutch pedal has stuck to the floor after replacing the gm clutch assist spring ( original was broke I had found).
I can still replicate the issue with a slow depression of the pedal and pumping it ten times or so stiffens it right back up. no fluid on the ground and I had the car on a lift the other day. it has the cleanest, driest undercarriage of any gm I've owned. this is my 15th car or so.
hope I didn't typo. cellphone is hard to write on.
after about three bottles the fluid looked clean and issues seemed to go away. fast forward about 1k miles and my clutch pedal has stuck to the floor after replacing the gm clutch assist spring ( original was broke I had found).
I can still replicate the issue with a slow depression of the pedal and pumping it ten times or so stiffens it right back up. no fluid on the ground and I had the car on a lift the other day. it has the cleanest, driest undercarriage of any gm I've owned. this is my 15th car or so.
hope I didn't typo. cellphone is hard to write on.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
I get the occasional pedal-stuck-to-floor problem when driving hard, I at some point plan to replace the OEM master with a Tick adjustable based on lengthy research on this forum and elsewhere. Seems to be the cure-all for that particular problem, assuming the slave cylinder is functioning normally and the fluid isn't toast.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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I had heard the mc was revised in 01, tho I can find nothing right now to validate. was hoping a oem unit taken care of by keeping fluid clean would be a solution, but really sounds like the tick product is Leaps and bounds better than stock.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Cypress Texas
chuckie, just based on your 2nd to last post, really sounds like an MC. FYI...The driverside wheel and fender liner have to come out to change the MC, taking the driver seat makes access under the dash much easier as well...I will tell you from experience after swapping two MCs prior to the Tick, I'd rather had done it right in the 1st place 
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2012
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thanks for your post. guess I'll be looking at the tick mc. is 305 about standard price. I've seen that consistent across a few sites.
my biggest concern is bleeding the clutch. I've never had much experience with hydraulics so it's new to me. looks like they have decent install instructions though.
my biggest concern is bleeding the clutch. I've never had much experience with hydraulics so it's new to me. looks like they have decent install instructions though.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
chuckie, just based on your 2nd to last post, really sounds like an MC. FYI...The driverside wheel and fender liner have to come out to change the MC, taking the driver seat makes access under the dash much easier as well...I will tell you from experience after swapping two MCs prior to the Tick, I'd rather had done it right in the 1st place
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,375
Likes: 424
GM Parts House can supply the MC. No body parts need to be removed to get at and replace the MC. The 'quick disconnect' to the slave can be a challenge. It's easier to get to from below and even then it's a biotch. Squirt WD40 to get it's attention.
BE SURE to bench bleed the MC before putting it on. The quick disconnect allows you to present a fully charged MC to the slave line. You have to move the lines from the old MC to the new MC anyway.
Be sure to turn the MC completely to lock into the firewall. This can be a challenge since there is so little room to get a good grip on it. I used a small 4" C clamp as a hand hold to get a good grip on it. It screws into the firewall like the top of a pickle jar. There are no bolts.
BTW - the MC is plastic so don't bang it around or squeeze it too much.
BE SURE to bench bleed the MC before putting it on. The quick disconnect allows you to present a fully charged MC to the slave line. You have to move the lines from the old MC to the new MC anyway.
Be sure to turn the MC completely to lock into the firewall. This can be a challenge since there is so little room to get a good grip on it. I used a small 4" C clamp as a hand hold to get a good grip on it. It screws into the firewall like the top of a pickle jar. There are no bolts.
BTW - the MC is plastic so don't bang it around or squeeze it too much.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Cypress Texas
I installed my Tick MC without removing any body parts. The only real problems were making absolutely sure you have the drilling template positioned perfectly, and re-installing the pedal assembly, due to my size, and lack of flexability. The "Ranger method" is great for maintenence purposes, but it won't fix a sticking pedal for long, if at all.
Pic from install thread with stock Mc already out (driverside wheel well view)
Good thread on the Tick
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...nder-pics.html
Tick comparison for the OP, much better unit than the OEM junk
Last edited by Dave_2003_TRZ06; Mar 12, 2013 at 03:45 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
By reaching from above. (I'd rather remove the excess panel.)
However, when installing the Tick, I suggest taking the (7) or so small screws off to get the excess panel off & getting a clear line of sight of where the clutch M/C lives.....as in your helpfull picture.
However, when installing the Tick, I suggest taking the (7) or so small screws off to get the excess panel off & getting a clear line of sight of where the clutch M/C lives.....as in your helpfull picture.
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 5,393
Likes: 17
From: Belleville Mich.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 438
Likes: 0
From: Cypress Texas
removal of the panel was my only option..The removal and re-installation of the clutch pedal assembly was the only real PITA on whole install....having the drivers seat out helps and removing that plastic panel/cover from under the dash.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 11,060
Likes: 291
From: Pasco WA
lol...no way that would work with my arms and hands removal of the panel was my only option..The removal and re-installation of the clutch pedal assembly was the only real PITA on whole install....having the drivers seat out helps and removing that plastic panel/cover from under the dash.
removal of the panel was my only option..The removal and re-installation of the clutch pedal assembly was the only real PITA on whole install....having the drivers seat out helps and removing that plastic panel/cover from under the dash.