Just wondering what kinds of trans seals there are to replace while I'm in there? I've not yet cracked into one, so I don't know how they're made. I'm assuming when you split the motor from the trans, there should be no fluid in the middle. Also, my trans has a small drip near the rear, no idea where it's coming from.

 

Anyone? If I don't need any, I can pony up for some Amsoil now.

 

This post may help>

- C5 ragtopws6, T-56 Build (whats in my tranny?) : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/nort...-smoother.html

You will need the large O ring that goes between the differential and the transmission.

According to the service manual, you just need anerobic sealer between the case halves.

Im attempting to provide you the T-56 repair manual on PDF by attaching it to the post. If i fail, PM me your e-mail adderss, and ask for it and I will send it:

 

Here is something else that will come in handy:


If you dont have a set of Factory Seervice Manuals, its highly recommended that you find some.

 

Before you read the T-56 repair manual and say
"WTF,, thats for an F body,,, "

Yep ,, it is and other than the end covers, the rest is pretty much the same.
If you want the real procedure, you will need the service manuals.

You stated, when you split the motor from the trans,,, Hmmmm,,,

the trans and the differential are in the rear and connected to the engine via torque tube..

C5 T-56 MN12 Version with internal TRANSILLA T-60-60 upgrade







BC

 

Read what Bill posted and be prepared to look in the rear for the transmission. It is not attached to the motor like most of your other GM vechiles.

 

I'd suspect the diff left axle seal which is a common leak point on the C5. I replace mine at the start of every race season as preventative maintenance.

 

flip the rev. gear synchro, are you sure the gear is bad?

 

Steve: yeah, that's why I only bought the gear. Kinda banking on it not already being flipped! Not sure the gear is bad, but for as many times as I've ground it I'm fairly certain it is. It also takes a good bit of shifter travel to get it into reverse and once it's in I feel like it's not totally in. Which reminds me now that I need to get new pads for the fork. Last year when it started jumping out, I did a search and realized reverse was synchronized. All of a sudden the previous 7 months having to push hard to get it into reverse made me cringe as I realized had I known it was synchronized, I could have limped it along for far longer than I did by forcing it in. I thought I was fighting the lockout, but it turns out the lockout keeps you from getting as far as I was before it fought me. Since then, I've been putting the car in 6th to spin up the innards and try to quickly shove it into reverse. Works a million times better than simply going for reverse. I have to be real ginger with the throttle too because it sort of bumps in most of the time. Just waiting for the garage and my schedule to free up long enough to pull this off as I anticipate finding something I didn't anticipate as soon as it's all torn apart.

Bill, I definitely intended to say split trans from diff, not motor. My bad. I wasn't sure if there's a seal that goes there or not, but apparently there is an o-ring. Thanks a ton for putting up all that info, sorry I didn't thank you sooner!

C66, the left diff axle seal? Does it run forward when it leaks or something? Because it leaks where the trans and diff come together IIRC.

 

Are you going to pull the torque tube and inspect the torque tube internals? Maybe replace the slave?

STEVE

Please explain this flip the reverse gear thing further???? Inquiring minds would like to know???????

Bill

 

The syncro itself is double sided, so you can flip it as it only uses 1 side. Saves $100 when you go to replace the reverse gear. TT is coming out and I already have a slave and remote bleeder line here with me. Master goes in next weekend since it's an easy kill and hopefully my spindle ducts too. If the clutch looks nasty, well, I'll just cringe as I put it back together. Hoping the TT is in usable condition, as all my projected funds are currently allocated for brakes and tires. I don't get a rock grinding sound at all so I figure that's a good sign. I have no qualms dropping the driveline again next winter, I know a 110,000 mile clutch won't hold forever, but if it grabs enough to get sideways in 3rd gear I figure it'll last a season of HPDE.

 

Not usually. It leaks on the left side, but then the air flow usually splatters it all over the place making it a little hard to tell the actual source.

 

Truth be told, those are on my radar, but I don't think they're leaking.

Bill, the front of that couple inch long section gets sealed with goo and the part that mates to the diff gets an o-ring, right? Is there trans fluid sitting in the cavity between the diff and trans then or is that just a dust seal?