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My Hurst shifter arrived on Friday! So of course I installed it on the weekend! It sure is a solid looking piece of metal. After reading everyones posts regarding the Hursts I did the install and had no problems. I removed the stop screws because some people have had problems with them vibrating out. Once I got it all back together I took it for a drive and MAN! I like this thing! One problem though. I get a chattering vibration when I get on it and in 3 & 4 I get that vibration at anything over 2000 RPM. It is loud and uncomfortable sounding. After screwing around with it for several hours I finally figured out that the shaft of the Hurst was picking up a harmonic. My solution was to re-install the stop screws and screw them in until the contact the shaft of the HURST and then add one half turn. This did stop the vibration, but I find this to be an odd problem.
Anyone else experience this or have any thoughts on it?
Redvette,
Just a thought....did you check your "neutral gate" adjustment after you installed the Hurst? That's the adjusment you make using the "pin" that's sitting in the slot of the factory shifter.
Lots of aftermarket shifters vibrate. That's why GM puts the rubber isolated shifter in. There have been many ideas on how to stop it, but it is very common. Mine vibrates a little. The shift **** makes a big difference (the stock **** seems to vibrate the most for some reason).
What **** are you using? I had a little vibration in my Hurst but took the advice of many here who said to use weights around the shaft to quell it. I took a piece of 3/4" heater hose and attached some weights with tape to the outside of the hose and slipped it over the shaft.
I'm currently using a MoMo ****, which contributes to the vibration, but I'm going to switch to a heavier, shorter billet ****. In the meantime, I tightened the **** as much as I dared to and the vibration has largely disappeared.
I wouldn't use the stops as a fix for the vibration. Eliminating the harmonic by having contact with the stops at all times while in gear is a questionable panacea. The lack of an elastomer damper like that built into the stock shifter means harmonics are transferred directly from the tranny linkage to the shifter. They can be somewhat eliminated by damping the shaft vibration by changing the vibration characteristics of the shaft through the addition of weight and damping-friendly materials. (Disclaimer: JMHO :) )
Guys, I installed a WCC billet **** in black with the C5 flags and it works fine. In fact, I added a soft rubber washer to the top of the shifter shaft (as an insulator) and then screwed the little beauty on=no noise. Another feature of this **** is that it sits lower on the shaft as the threads are cut deeper in the ****, hence, it further shortens the shifter. Worked for me, hope it does the same for you all...
Joe
After having my Hurst now for 3 months, It is broken in(a little easier to shift) and is a little quieter. It is possible that over time upon breaking in the Hurst tends to vibrate less. Anybody else notice the improvement?
Redvette,
You'll have to remove the shift boot to do this. After you take the boot off, take the gauge pin and see if it will freely slide into the hole in the shaft coupling that's just ahead of the shifter. If it slides through the hole in the coupler and through the hole in the shift rod, you're OK.
If the pin doesn't freely slide in and through, get a Torx bit socket (IIRC, it's a T50) and loosen the two bolts that attach the shifter housing to the torque tube, as well as the bolt on the coupler. Then adjust everything so the pin slides in and out of the gauge hole freely, leave the pin in place, and tighten all 3 bolts to 22 ft/lbs of torque. Now your neutral gate will be all set.