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Welding a cracked header

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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 05:36 PM
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Default Welding a cracked header

My headers are several years old. There is a brace down near the collector that is cracked at the weld on one header and leaking exhaust. I plan to have it welded on the car and am wondering if there are any precautions I need to take to protect the electrical system before someone strikes an arc on this job. I assume it would be wise to disconnect the battery. Any other suggestions?

Last edited by AJay; Mar 27, 2013 at 06:50 PM.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 07:06 PM
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Disconnect positive and negative from the battery.
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Old Mar 27, 2013 | 08:54 PM
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Default Welding

You will need to unhook the computer which is behind the passenger
Front wheel. It doesn't like electrical spikes.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 08:27 AM
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What brand LT's?

Most people don't run that bracket for this exact reason. It's not necessary and too many have broken off the collector.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 08:41 AM
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Stainless Works
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 08:42 AM
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Originally Posted by outsideline
You will need to unhook the computer which is behind the passenger
Front wheel. It doesn't like electrical spikes.
Is this a big job?
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Very small job if the cracked area is easily accessable. If you disconnect the battery, (mainley the NEGATIVE cable) and have the welder NEGATIVE lead clamped on to the header, there is NO need to disconnect the PCM!

The welding job (If the damaged area is acessable) will only take 10-15 min.

I have Stainless Works headers. If you are talking about the bracket that connects the outlet pipe to the bracket on the bottom of the bell housing, Unless the header pipe its self is cracked and leaking, I wouldnt worry about it. Connecting that bracket to the header really doesnt matter.

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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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Thanks Bill.
The bracket I am talking about is shown clearly in your picture just upstream of your cats. The weld is cracked at the header and leaking exhaust.
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Old Mar 28, 2013 | 07:41 PM
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If it gets TIG welded on the chassis I would disconnect anything I wanted to keep working, the high frequency starting arc can really play hell with the electronics. Or you can ask the welder to "scratch start" the arc and turn off the high frequency. If you have it welded with a MIG (wire feed), disconnecting the negative wire should be fine.
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 10:33 AM
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With electronics, the thing that kills them is the differential voltage between the positive and negative(ground) - especially if it is reverse polarity. What you might want to do is when you disconnect your battery cables from the battery, connect them together so there is only "one" voltage rail for both polarities.
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 10:51 AM
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Wouldn't you think that if the ground were connected as close to the weld as possible on the header, that the potential difference would never be seen by the cars electronics?

If really worried about all of this, just remove the header. Probably do a better weld then anyway.

Ron
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Old Mar 29, 2013 | 10:01 PM
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I have had both of my bungs break off/crack and had them welded back on at local muffler shop for about $15 each time. Piece of cake and I did not take any precautions for electrical issues.
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