C5 Killing me wont start
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C5 Killing me wont start
Hi Guys...Here we go again. 98 C5 Auto conv..Tries to start but wont. The other day it was sputtering then picked up and I drove it all day. Tday tarted to do the same thing then died. Ithas plenty of battery and turns over and tries to start but wont. I have 1 c-code p0108 C and 3 history codes 1431, 1571 and 1626. I had a heater motor malfunction that required a replacement and that H code is still there under HVAC Bo367. Any offers of assistancewould be helpful. The mechanic thinks its a fuel pump but I dont know?
Last edited by Rickey Hughett; Mar 29, 2013 at 03:47 PM.
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He has not checked that yet.. It was a phone conversation diagnosis.. He gets the car this Tuesday. Is it possible that it could be a clogged fuel filter causing the 108 code?
Last edited by Rickey Hughett; Mar 30, 2013 at 07:36 PM.
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The fuel filter contains the fuel pressure regulator on the 98 so the fuel filter may well be a problem.
I suggest that you clear the codes and then try starting the car again. If it fails to start pull the codes BEFORE you turn off the ignition. Post what codes come back after the clear.
P1626 is a theft deterrent fuel system enable code so the no start may be security related. ie your key is NOT being read correctly. Perhaps try your backup key.
I suggest that you clear the codes and then try starting the car again. If it fails to start pull the codes BEFORE you turn off the ignition. Post what codes come back after the clear.
P1626 is a theft deterrent fuel system enable code so the no start may be security related. ie your key is NOT being read correctly. Perhaps try your backup key.
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Did you clear the codes first? If yes then the next time it fails to start pull the codes BEFORE you turn off the ignition. If you have P1626 then your key is not being read correctly. Two things you can try are cleaning the pellet on the key using the eraser on a pencil and then wiping the pellet with a clean lint free cloth. Second thing is getting some electrical contact cleaner (auto parts store or Radio Shack for certain) and spraying some inside the lock cylinder. Then insert and remove the key a dozen or so times wiping the key between each insert of the key with a clean lint free cloth. There is a fine wire inside the cylinder that wipes across the pellet in the key to read it. The wire sometimes builds up some dirt or oxidation that needs to be cleaned.
Fuel filter is on the inside face of the frame at the drivers side rear wheel well. You need the special fuel line release tool (sold at most auto parts stores) to release the fuel line from the filter. Jack up the drivers rear side and it can be accessed. Take the rear wheel off for the most room. Toughest part is usually releasing the gas line if you have never used the tool.
Key Cylinder.
Unless you know the wire in the cylinder is broken, or the key is badly worn, I wouldn't change out the cylinder. Lots of things to consider.
The key cylinder can be replaced but you will either need to have the new cylinder rekeyed to your current key or have a key that doesn't match the other key cylinders on the car. Usually the cylinder will come with a key. The key will most likely have a different resistor pellet value than your present key. You can go through the BCM-PCM relearn procedure to cause the new key resistance to be learned or purchase a blank key with the correct resistance value and then have it cut to the new key pattern. Here is the list of resistance values for the C5 keys. Measure your current key resistor if you plan to buy a blank and have it cut:
Here is the BCM PCM relearn procedure. Insure your battery is FULLY Charged before starting the procedure:
BCM/PCM RELEARN PROCEDURE
You will need to conduct the PCM/BCM relearn process. This matches their handshake ID's and allows them to talk to each other.
Do this before you worry about VATS issues:
1. Turn on the key for 11 minutes.
2 Turn off the key for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn on the key for 30 seconds.
The car should start and run with the new BCM.
This will sync the PCM to the New BCM
Once the BCM and PCM are sync'ed up you can start and drive the car. However, RPO's that the car has installed MUST be programmed into the BCM using a TECH II. RPO's on the car must be turned on in the BCM. For example if your car had options like the F45 or F55 suspension, the BCM must be told its there. Similarly with wheher the car is a manual vs automatic, etc. You can get the RPO list from the Glove box door and if you have someone that has a TECH II you can do that yourself. Not all the RPO's listed on the Glove box door get programmed into the BCM.
And lastly here is a link to the procedure for removing the ignition switch. In the removal procedure is information for separating the key cylinder from the ignition switch:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html
Fuel filter is on the inside face of the frame at the drivers side rear wheel well. You need the special fuel line release tool (sold at most auto parts stores) to release the fuel line from the filter. Jack up the drivers rear side and it can be accessed. Take the rear wheel off for the most room. Toughest part is usually releasing the gas line if you have never used the tool.
Key Cylinder.
Unless you know the wire in the cylinder is broken, or the key is badly worn, I wouldn't change out the cylinder. Lots of things to consider.
The key cylinder can be replaced but you will either need to have the new cylinder rekeyed to your current key or have a key that doesn't match the other key cylinders on the car. Usually the cylinder will come with a key. The key will most likely have a different resistor pellet value than your present key. You can go through the BCM-PCM relearn procedure to cause the new key resistance to be learned or purchase a blank key with the correct resistance value and then have it cut to the new key pattern. Here is the list of resistance values for the C5 keys. Measure your current key resistor if you plan to buy a blank and have it cut:
Here is the BCM PCM relearn procedure. Insure your battery is FULLY Charged before starting the procedure:
BCM/PCM RELEARN PROCEDURE
You will need to conduct the PCM/BCM relearn process. This matches their handshake ID's and allows them to talk to each other.
Do this before you worry about VATS issues:
1. Turn on the key for 11 minutes.
2 Turn off the key for 30 seconds.
3. Repeat 1&2 two more times.
4. Turn on the key for 30 seconds.
The car should start and run with the new BCM.
This will sync the PCM to the New BCM
Once the BCM and PCM are sync'ed up you can start and drive the car. However, RPO's that the car has installed MUST be programmed into the BCM using a TECH II. RPO's on the car must be turned on in the BCM. For example if your car had options like the F45 or F55 suspension, the BCM must be told its there. Similarly with wheher the car is a manual vs automatic, etc. You can get the RPO list from the Glove box door and if you have someone that has a TECH II you can do that yourself. Not all the RPO's listed on the Glove box door get programmed into the BCM.
And lastly here is a link to the procedure for removing the ignition switch. In the removal procedure is information for separating the key cylinder from the ignition switch:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1571067145-post107.html
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,315
Likes: 17
From: Near Jacksonville Fl.
The fuel filter contains the fuel pressure regulator on the 98 so the fuel filter may well be a problem.
I suggest that you clear the codes and then try starting the car again. If it fails to start pull the codes BEFORE you turn off the ignition. Post what codes come back after the clear.
P1626 is a theft deterrent fuel system enable code so the no start may be security related. ie your key is NOT being read correctly. Perhaps try your backup key.
I suggest that you clear the codes and then try starting the car again. If it fails to start pull the codes BEFORE you turn off the ignition. Post what codes come back after the clear.
P1626 is a theft deterrent fuel system enable code so the no start may be security related. ie your key is NOT being read correctly. Perhaps try your backup key.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Hi yes I know how to pull the codes hiolding the option button and hitting fuel button 4 times. I did that and cleared all the codes. i cleaned the key with the pencil eraser but do not have access to radio Shack until tomorrow for the electronic cleaner. For now I have just left the key in the car by itself. I lock the doors with the fob and it seems to work perfectly for the moment. The car is always garaged and basically a weekend toy so it never sits out. I do want to clean up the switch. I believe that is my problem and I dont want to get into programming a new key kinda thing if I dont need to. The car runs perfectly with plenty of power so not sure where that code came from about the map.
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Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
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Hi yes I know how to pull the codes hiolding the option button and hitting fuel button 4 times. I did that and cleared all the codes. i cleaned the key with the pencil eraser but do not have access to radio Shack until tomorrow for the electronic cleaner. For now I have just left the key in the car by itself. I lock the doors with the fob and it seems to work perfectly for the moment. The car is always garaged and basically a weekend toy so it never sits out. I do want to clean up the switch. I believe that is my problem and I dont want to get into programming a new key kinda thing if I dont need to. The car runs perfectly with plenty of power so not sure where that code came from about the map.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2013
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Ok guys..Here we go..Mechanic came over and the car showed 1/2 tank of fuel. A feul pressure gage was hooked up and nothing but air was blowing just like it was out of fuel. I put a gallon of gas in it and it cranked and ran great. We drove it to gas station and it only held 8 more gallons. We are guessing something happened to the pick up tube in the tank. The key issue was fixed with Radio Shack electronics cleaner and a pencil eraser for the key. Next move is taking out the pump and see whats goingf on there. I have been driving it trying to get some gas out of her before we pull the pump. Seems Im good to go till around 1/2 tank. Any comments on this would be welcomed. Any similar problems out there? Thanks..Rick
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From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Your two fuel tanks are connected at the TOP of the tank with a cross over line. When you fill the tank, you only fill the driver’s side and when the drivers tank is near full, it spills over into the passengers tank and fills that tank
The fuel pump is in only in the driver’s tank. The pump has a small line that puts pressurized fuel into a siphon pump inside the passengers tank and that siphon pump removes fuel from the passengers tank and transfers it into the driver’s side.
Your either not getting the pressurized fuel from the drivers tank pump OR the siphon pump is clogged (common problem)
If you ran the tank dry and it was pumping air, I would consider changing out the pump in the drivers tank. Fuel keeps the pump and motor cool. When you have the fuel assemblies out, inspect the fuel senders and make sure that the small sensor strip isn’t worn or damaged.
NOTE and WARNING!!! The passenger’s side tank will most likely have a LOT of fuel in it when you remove the access.
The fuel pump is in only in the driver’s tank. The pump has a small line that puts pressurized fuel into a siphon pump inside the passengers tank and that siphon pump removes fuel from the passengers tank and transfers it into the driver’s side.
Your either not getting the pressurized fuel from the drivers tank pump OR the siphon pump is clogged (common problem)
If you ran the tank dry and it was pumping air, I would consider changing out the pump in the drivers tank. Fuel keeps the pump and motor cool. When you have the fuel assemblies out, inspect the fuel senders and make sure that the small sensor strip isn’t worn or damaged.
NOTE and WARNING!!! The passenger’s side tank will most likely have a LOT of fuel in it when you remove the access.