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My 2000 coupe is in for major engine, drive train, interior upgrades and I am adding a number of new gauges, and electrical components (switches, relays, etc.). I am also moving the battery to the rear to make room for either a centralized relay panel (11 new relays) or a self contained fuel cell for the nitrous system. I have the components for the relocation of the battery (cables (1ga), battery box) but was also contemplating doing the Big 3 Upgrade. I understand there is differing opinions on the need for this upgrade, but with the addition of all the new switches and corresponding relays, as well as an upgraded stereo system and HID lighting I thought it would be a worthwhile addition. With the battery in the rear, should I run an upgraded positive cable from the alternator to the rear mounted battery or to the positive post on the engine compartment fuse box , which will be fed from the rear mounted battery? Would doing so negate any benefit of the upgraded cable from the alternator?
I would be already using upgraded ground cable from battery to frame in the rear, and would upgrade the frame to engine ground cable as well. Any information would be appreciated as I am admittedly no expert in this area. Thanks in advance.
Personally, I would run the 1 gauge cable to the starter solenoid and run another heavy cable from the solenoid to the under hood fuse block stud. An 8 gauge wire for this jumper would be about right. It should have a fusible link at the solenoid end of the wire.
Run the "new" alternator charging wire to the fuse block stud. This new wire should probably be about a 8 gauge wire as well.
There is a second smaller wire from the alternator connector plug to the solenoid battery post. This is the voltage sensing wire. Connect it to the fuse block stud as well. This will make the alternator regulate this connection stud where power is being distributed to 14.2V.
I'm not sure offhand where it connects, but connect the in-dash fuse block power feed to the under hood fuse block stud too.
Also use that under hood fuse block stud to connect the power for these new accessories.
If you have to, run a short 8 gauge jumper wire to another distribution block located in that area.
To sum it up, everything connects to the under hood fuse block stud and then you run a jumper down to the solenoid to charge the battery.
Personally, I would run the 1 gauge cable to the starter solenoid and run another heavy cable from the solenoid to the under hood fuse block stud. An 8 gauge wire for this jumper would be about right. It should have a fusible link at the solenoid end of the wire.
Run the "new" alternator charging wire to the fuse block stud. This new wire should probably be about a 8 gauge wire as well.
There is a second smaller wire from the alternator connector plug to the solenoid battery post. This is the voltage sensing wire. Connect it to the fuse block stud as well. This will make the alternator regulate this connection stud where power is being distributed to 14.2V.
I'm not sure offhand where it connects, but connect the in-dash fuse block power feed to the under hood fuse block stud too.
Also use that under hood fuse block stud to connect the power for these new accessories.
If you have to, run a short 8 gauge jumper wire to another distribution block located in that area.
To sum it up, everything connects to the under hood fuse block stud and then you run a jumper down to the solenoid to charge the battery.
Something I should note. If you run a battery disconnect, the alternator charging wire needs to connect to the battery side. In this case, you might need to run the alternator charging wire all the way back to the battery to connect it to the battery before the disconnect.