When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I saw you PM LATE LATE last night and then you post just now. Unless your wheel bearing is destroyed, I seriously doubt that replacing the wheel bearing will solve your issue. You have a lot more wrong than a a wheel speed sensor.
First things first,,,,,, MAKE SURE that your battery is fully charged and good condition.
CLEAR all the DTCs and see what comes back.
DTC C1226 RF Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1227 LR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1228 RR Excessive Wheel Speed Variation
DTC C1232 LF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1233 RF Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1234 LR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1235 RR Wheel Speed Circuit Open or Shorted
DTC C1236 Low System Supply Voltage
DTC C1237 High System Supply Voltage
DTC C1238 Brake Thermal Model Exceeded
DTC C1241 Variable Effort Steering Circuit Malfunction
DTC C1242 Pump Motor Circuit Open
DTC C1243 BPMV Pump Motor Stalled
DTC C1246 Brake Lining Wear Circuit Open
DTC C1248 EBCM Turned the Red Brake Warning Indicator On
DTC C1251 RSS Indicated Malfunction
DTC C1252 LF Normal Force Malfunction
DTC C1253 RF Normal Force Malfunction
DTC C1254 Abnormal Shutdown Detected
DTC C1255 EBCM Internal Malfunction
DTC C1256 EBCM Internal Malfunction
DTC C1261 LF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1262 LF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1263 RF Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1264 RF Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1265 LR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1266 LR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1267 RR Inlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1268 RR Outlet Valve Solenoid Malfunction
DTC C1271 LF TCS Master Cylinder Isolation Valve Malfunction
DTC C1272 LF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
DTC C1273 RF TCS Master Cylinder Isolation Valve Malfunction
DTC C1274 RF TCS Prime Valve Malfunction
DTC C1276 Delivered Torque Signal Circuit Malfunction
DTC C1277 Requested Torque Signal Circuit Malfunction
DTC C1278 TCS Temporarily Inhibited By PCM DTC C1281 VSES Sensors Uncorrelated DTC C1282 Yaw Rate Sensor Bias Circuit Malfunction DTC C1283 Excessive Time to Center Steering
DTC C1284 Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Bias Malfunction
DTC C1285 Lateral Accelerometer Sensor Circuit Malfunction DTC C1286 Steering Sensor Bias Malfunction
DTC C1287 Steering Sensor Rate Malfunction
DTC C1288 Steering Sensor Circuit Malfunction
DTC C1291 Open Brake Lamp Switch Contacts During Deceleration
There are THREE fuses for the EBTCM. Make sure that they are not blown or corroded.
Are there ANy other DTCs that show up??
Please clear ALL the DTCs and see what reappears when the issue pops back up.
Battery is new, and this went on with the old battery last year. I had the rear bearings replaced last year due to a loud hum. That solved that.
As I come to a slow stop, clutch in or out, in gear or neutral, I think I hear some grinding coming from the front. Whenever I get "Active Handling" for no good reason, it seems to be on the right front wheel, mostly turning to the right. Now, I hit a good bump and ABS light comes on.
But of course, I'm always willing to listen to those with much more experience than me.
Your RF Wheel Speed Sensor is not working.. I seriously doubt that there is anything wrong with the WSS.
You can test the output of the sensor with an AC Volt Meter. Attach the meter leads to the sensor pigtail and have someone spin the wheel. The faster the wheel spins, the greater the voltage will be. Its not important to know the value of the voltage but just that you see voltage and it increases as the seed of the wheel increases.
Your problem most likely lies with in one of the FEMALE connector "female pins". They get spread apart and the male pin can not properly connect to the female pin. There are TWO female connectors on each WSS. One on the JUMPER HARNESS and one on the connector that the jumper plugs into on the K Member
If the female pins are spread apart, you can bend them back in shape.
Well, the dial indicator moves WAY past the .005 tolerance, on both front wheel hubs. I have Timken hubs on order. I'll change those anyway. But, what is the best way to clean the electric contacts and where do you get it?
Well, this old guy changed out the front wheel hubs Saturday. Jacked the car up and worked basically in a croutched position for hours. From leaving the couch to putting the last cleaned tools away, 5 and 1/2 hours, and the pains to this old body.....wow.
Anyway, the contacts looked good, cleaned them with contact spray from Radio Shack and off I went. Cleared the codes and nothing returned all weekend so far and I put the car through its paces. I still think its too early to tell if all is good, but so far it certainly is. And boy, do I neen an alignment and new tires for the front. I'll go with the Hankooks v12 Evo for now to match the back, but I am not thrilled with them in the back. The Toyo Proxies T1R held the dry road WAY better.
Thanks everyone for your help. I'll keep you posted if any codes come back.
I used to CONSTANTLY get the right front wheel sensor code and after replacing the sensor and slaving to fix the issue I found the wiring harness on the driver side stuck to the header and shorting it out, might check that.
*edit* I read through the thread to fast and didn't realize you fixed it, disregard *edit*