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I have noted that most procedures for front shock removal, recommend moving the washer and coolant reservoirs aside, to access the top of the shock. None of what I read indicates that I would need to drain the reservoirs to move them aside. Do I need to drain them, or will they move enough (with contents unmolested) to enable gripping the top of the shock with my Snap On tool?
Just did mine last week and used a swivel ratcheting wrench, no problems at all and it was quick work, didn't remove anything either.
I also just did mine last week using a swivel ratcheting wrench and a small open end to keep the shock shaft from turning. Of course using the Zip Ties method. The fronts are actually easier than the rear. Trying to get that rear shock out is a real PITA.
top access isn't needed. you can use a gearwrench and vice grip and or smaller wrench
worst part with the front is getting the old ones out. i had to loosen the upper control arms in order to get them in. didn't have to completely take them off, just backed the bolts out
rears are easy. pop the toe adjustment rod and they slip right out
i'm sure a base car would be easier. z06 shocks are pretty firm
top access isn't needed. you can use a gearwrench and vice grip and or smaller wrench
worst part with the front is getting the old ones out. i had to loosen the upper control arms in order to get them in. didn't have to completely take them off, just backed the bolts out
rears are easy. pop the toe adjustment rod and they slip right out
i'm sure a base car would be easier. z06 shocks are pretty firm
You needed to jack up the suspension zip tie the shocks in the compressed position and then lower the jack. Shocks come right out. Compress new shocks zip tie them and slip them in. McRat Method works well for front.
make sure you use a craftsman or snap on 6mm wrench to keep the shaft from turning, because I absoultely destroyed mine trying to get the top nuts off. The wrench kept opening up, and I had to beat it back closed with a hammer on an anvil to close it back up to the proper size. It also rounded off the tips of the wrench. Although the nuts had been on there for 135k miles.
here's a pic of my wrench after I got done with it.
Another option would be to try to use some very powerful vice grips.
Finally got to the fronts and finished them today. Kudos to the McRat method and the tastefully shocking bondage section. Drives a lot better - no longer bottoming out on those 168K mile originals. A small break for tree cutting, then on to C6 Z51 sway bars.
top access isn't needed. you can use a gearwrench and vice grip and or smaller wrench
worst part with the front is getting the old ones out. i had to loosen the upper control arms in order to get them in. didn't have to completely take them off, just backed the bolts out
rears are easy. pop the toe adjustment rod and they slip right out
i'm sure a base car would be easier. z06 shocks are pretty firm
The rear stock OEM shocks are easy to remove because you can compress them fairly easily and they are thinner then upgraded C6Z06 shocks but I had to remove C6Z06 shocks which are thicker and very hard to compress to remove. I had a suspension noise and was trying to figure out what was wrong. Zeroed in on shocks but could not tell which one was bad. There was no leakage. I was putting my original shocks back on to find the culprit. As luck would have it a front C6Z06 shock with only 7K miles that was bad and the last one I replaced. So rather than buying a new front shock and reinstalling all of them I just sold the 3 C6Z06 and left the original low mileage shocks on. The ride is smoother but the handling did suffer a little bit.