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I personally would build something similar to this, except with maybe a little bigger final platform and bigger front stop. A small dip at the top would help too to have the tire sit in once it gets to the top. I get paranoid about running the car over the front end of the ramps
i got a low profile jack at Harbor Freight and some jack stands. that works fine and no need for big wood ramps that i would have no place to store them
i got a low profile jack at Harbor Freight and some jack stands. that works fine and no need for big wood ramps that i would have no place to store them
$79 on sale which is $60 off the normal price. Sign up and get coupons by email. Lifts from 2.75 inches to 20 inches. Harbor Freight has some great deals from time to time.
Last edited by maxx2200; May 21, 2013 at 06:02 PM.
$79 on sale which is $60 off the normal price. Sign up and get coupons by email. Lifts from 2.75 inches to 20 inches. Harbor Freight has some great deals from time to time.
Wow sounds like I'll have to pick up one of those this weekend. How long is the sale going on?
For the OP, I too do not have a low-profile jack, just a standard Craftsman 3-Ton floor jack. Since much of what I do on my car requires that I remove the wheels, ramps are insufficient.
Here's what I do:
1. Remove the saddle/cradle from the jack and replace it with a 1/2-3/4"-thick, 6"x6" square piece of MDF or plywood (just resting on the flat platform of the jack under the cradle.) Assuming your rear suspension is stock height (or close to it), this will allow you to position the jack under the rear frame cross-member.
2. Using the preferred jacking point on the rear frame cross-member, raise the rear of the car. This cross-member is aluminum, and has several cast reinforcements that you can see from the rear of the car; it's preferred if you can be positioned under at least one of these reinforcements. The MDF/plywood is only so you don't damage the aluminum.
3. Once the rear is raised, position 2 jack stands outboard of the jack, either positioned on the cross-member or at the pivot of the lower control arms. I put a piece of 2x4 on the top of the jack stands, again, so as not to mar the control arm.
4. Lower the jack and replace the saddle with a jacking puck.
5. With the rear in the air, you will now have enough room on the forward frame rail jacking points (forward of the door) to accommodate your standard jack. Raise the front, one side at a time, utilizing the front suspension cross-member for the jack stands. Be careful that the jackstands ARE NOT positioned such that they come into contact with the cast aluminum oil pan.
7. Depending on the height of your jack and the extent to which you need to raise the front of the car, after both sides of the front are raised and supported, you may find that you can further raise the front of the car by repositioning the jack on the front cross-member between the jackstands, and elevating.
6. Lowering is the reverse.
That's 3 jacking locations to get the entire car off the ground with a standard (not low-profile) floor jack.