I did post this in forced induction as well since car is Twin Turbo but I do feel I will get more response in this section. Mod's Please feel free to delete either or if you feel I have violated any rules.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok let me first off Introduce the mods before the problem.
Car is Twin Turbo with sts kit.
Has a Triple Disc Exedy Clutch and a
BrandNew Slave Cylinder (less than a mile).

More history:
Differential is still stock. Had plans on building one in June.

My original RPM Tranny started to grind on 3rd and 4th long story short. Slave cylinder went bad fluid leaked out and caused my tranny to grind.

The Story:
So I did the whole transmission swap put in a stage 6 this time built by a forum member who was a local. After working on it couple hours every night here and there for two weeks. I finished it last night. Took it for a spin in my neighborhood. And was going to go pump gas. As soon as I get out of my neighbor hood. I shift to second barely before I even build boost and i here a pop. From there I lost all power. However, she was able to drive home. I put it in 1st gear it built speed up by itself and came home. It wasnt going fast I'd say 10 mph.

At this point It was 1am and I was extremely exhausted from working 4pm to 1am and all I could do was look under the car for any signs of fluid or anything and I see none.

Any suggestions while im at work would greatly help. As I may think it might be tranny differential, axle or clutch. However clutch does engage and disengage so I am close to ruling that one out.

Thanks,,
Bobby

 

Bobby

WE have limited slip differentials. If something happens to the the output shaft of either side, it will cause the car not to move ingear.

Recommendation: Put the car in gear (doesnt matter which one) and jack up one rear wheel (must be off the ground and able to rotate)

If you can rotate that wheel easily, you have a differential issue. Do the same for the other wheel.

The limited slip clutch packs apply friction to connect both wheels to each other in the straight ahead direction. When you turn LEFT or RIGHT, the clutches slip and prevent the rear inside tire from hopping across the pavement.


If you broke both belleville springs, there may not be enough or any friction force between both rear output shafts.
If you put a torque wrench on the hub center nut, you should see at least 70-100 ft/bs of force to move that wheel against the other rear wheel that is on the ground. Forces down around 30-60 show severe clutch wear/spring failures.

If you broke a differential output shaft, I dont think the car would move at all but, I have seen stranger things!

Seeing that the car moves at all, I would say that the rest of the drive train is functioning.

See what you find with the rear wheel torque test. Here are a few post that you may find interesting:

-C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

-C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

 

First and foremost Bill Curlee I would like to thank you for your detailed reply and taking the time out to post the valuable information. I do apologize I was unable to reply I was very busy this past week.

Now back to the topic. I think you are right I lifted the car up and i can hear sometimes clunking noises in the diff. Also to conclude that your theory is right, when I spin the wheel on driver or passenger side the other opposite wheel will not spin sometimes at all and sometimes it will catch and start spinning. Definitely a diff issue. I am going to go your route that you suggested with c6z internals in a c5z diff, with upgraded 300m shafts ofcourse. Let me know if you have anymore valubale information to share.

Regards, Bobby