When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
while my transmission is out being built..i figured with 44k on the clock might away install all new clutch components, I am going to install the remote bleed as well..
as far as my mods go I have vararam intake with power duct, lg streets long tube headers, corsa indy exhaust, tune from ecs
I am thinking about just putting in a new ls-6 clutch kit as I don't for see my self going over the 450 hp atm..also who has the best deals on the clutchs that come in kits..
thanks
Ryan
LS-7 clutch.. Call Gene Culley. He will hook you up with a kit that includes a new flywheel that will work on your tranny! Best bang for the buck,, hands down!
LS-7 clutch.. Call Gene Culley. He will hook you up with a kit that includes a new flywheel that will work on your tranny! Best bang for the buck,, hands down!
you think so? that is not overkill for what I am going for?
you think so? that is not overkill for what I am going for?
Not over kill at all.. A Tick Master Cylinder is a great idea and highly recommended, as racebum stated.. The weight issue is no big deal to me.. Go on a diet if it is a big deal to you... LOL! Go out and start pricing all this stuff yourself.. LS-7 clutch, Tick Master Cylinder and LS-7 flywheel is the way to go for you in my opinion, for what you will do with your mods.. Lots of other options out there for you too! And yes, they will cost you too..
heavy flywheels like to keep going once you spin them. absolutely not what you want if you autocross, hammer it and let off or know how to heel/toe shift
they are okay for around town driving since they typically start off easier and can be alight for drag racing since, like i said, once they spin, they keep going.
revs go up slower and come down slower
i think the ls6 flywheel is a bit too heavy. couldn't even imagine what an ls7 would feel like, yikes
heavy flywheels like to keep going once you spin them. absolutely not what you want if you autocross, hammer it and let off or know how to heel/toe shift
they are okay for around town driving since they typically start off easier and can be alight for drag racing since, like i said, once they spin, they keep going.
revs go up slower and come down slower
i think the ls6 flywheel is a bit too heavy. couldn't even imagine what an ls7 would feel like, yikes
valid point racebum, any ideal why the ls7 flywheels is so much heavier? then say the ls-6?
i don't actually know but the ls7 is a 427 with even more low end torque
the popular ls7 combo i've read about on the c5 is to use the ram 19lb flywheel.
vendors often sell the matched set in the high 500 range
that is not a bad deal then.. sorry for the stupid questions, but when you say matched set does that mean they come zero balanced or does one have to do that before they install it on the car?
that's actually a great question. i have no idea what degree of balancing goes into these. with race cars you can put a flywheel/clutch/plate on the spintron and gram balance it
not sure how close it is out of the box
by matched set i meant the correct flywheel for the ls7 clutch, you then use c5 hydraulics and are good to go
the ls7 clutch/plate with ram flywheel, 2004 master and slave is one thought i'm having
the strong plate clutches like monster do not self adjust which i would think means you need an adjustable master. having chatted with people the tick master increases pedal effort fairly substantial. no biggie for a race car but i drive in traffic. ram also has an adjustable master. i also have no idea what it does, if it's a modded stocker or if it's a big piston design like tick
so, i'm not sure what a guy does if he wants the oem master/slave but a clutch that won't suck to the floor or feel weird when driven hard.
ls7 clutch + the 04 master/slave would give you that factory feel and more holding power. i'm just not sure what it would feel like if i went drag racing or did a HPDE day
The ls7 clutch is heavier and in return your RPM's move a lot slower. The ls7 clutch also has a self adjusting pressure plate, the part that actually causes high RPM lockout and sticky/mushy clutch syndrome. A lot of people go with this clutch for the factory feel, but if you don't use the Tick master there shouldn't be much of a difference if you go with an aftermarket clutch that doesn't have a self adjusting pressure plate. (I myself opted for the Tick, a stiffer pedal doesn't bother me). While brand new the ls7 clutch doesn't have issues, eventually that self adjusting pressure plate will do the same thing any ls1/ls6 clutch does and gets mushy and sticks to the floor with age. At the very least I'd go for a Monster stage 1, I went with the stage 2 myself because it was only $50 more and held 100 more rwhp without any different pedal feel.
The ls7 clutch is heavier and in return your RPM's move a lot slower. The ls7 clutch also has a self adjusting pressure plate, the part that actually causes high RPM lockout and sticky/mushy clutch syndrome. A lot of people go with this clutch for the factory feel, but if you don't use the Tick master there shouldn't be much of a difference if you go with an aftermarket clutch that doesn't have a self adjusting pressure plate. (I myself opted for the Tick, a stiffer pedal doesn't bother me). While brand new the ls7 clutch doesn't have issues, eventually that self adjusting pressure plate will do the same thing any ls1/ls6 clutch does and gets mushy and sticks to the floor with age. At the very least I'd go for a Monster stage 1, I went with the stage 2 myself because it was only $50 more and held 100 more rwhp without any different pedal feel.
so what happens if you use a non adjusting plate with an oe master cylinder? seems like you would have no way to set engagement
monster stage 1 with an oe master seemed like the way to go for a daily driver clutch with the slip of organic material
i just was curious what a guy did for pedal adjustment. i know with the tick it's adjustable
so what happens if you use a non adjusting plate with an oe master cylinder? seems like you would have no way to set engagement
monster stage 1 with an oe master seemed like the way to go for a daily driver clutch with the slip of organic material
i just was curious what a guy did for pedal adjustment. i know with the tick it's adjustable
but the oe isn't
You don't have adjustment, you just have to set it up right the first time and that's how its always going to be, of course with time you'll break the clutch in and the pedal will slowly rise, but where the pedal sits is where it's going to be. I know that Toque (Mark) has a Monster Stage 2 clutch with a OE master cylinder, you might want to get in contact with him to see how it feels, I hear it feels not much stiffer than stock at all.