Havin some starting problems
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 28
From: Cedaredge Colorado
Havin some starting problems
Hey all, bought my first Vette bout a month ago now, and everything was hunky dory. Then I start havin some starting problems. Would start cold no problems, seemed once warmed up and shut down wouldn't start.
So right off cleaned grounds, got some lift time and found loose connection on solenoid.
Zoom zoom everything good, I don't drive the car everyday, and most times to this point, there short 1 hr or so cruises.
So last eve I get in and hit the key, no start no dash lights. Key in and out a few times and she fires up fine, zip down drop off some stuff to the wife, come out and starts up but go to move car dies and now gettin the R&R key after 10 secs.
Do a search here and it's the lock out/ low battery.
I'm havin trouble gettin this right in my head, once the car is started, shouldn't the alt charge the batt right back up to the point you wouldn't get this error.
If I don't drive it everyday, do you need a battery tender on all the time. Is it that critical with the battery charge??
Or maybe I'm missing something in my search results. Could the loose connection on the starter have buggered something else.
Joe
So right off cleaned grounds, got some lift time and found loose connection on solenoid.
Zoom zoom everything good, I don't drive the car everyday, and most times to this point, there short 1 hr or so cruises.
So last eve I get in and hit the key, no start no dash lights. Key in and out a few times and she fires up fine, zip down drop off some stuff to the wife, come out and starts up but go to move car dies and now gettin the R&R key after 10 secs.
Do a search here and it's the lock out/ low battery.
I'm havin trouble gettin this right in my head, once the car is started, shouldn't the alt charge the batt right back up to the point you wouldn't get this error.
If I don't drive it everyday, do you need a battery tender on all the time. Is it that critical with the battery charge??
Or maybe I'm missing something in my search results. Could the loose connection on the starter have buggered something else.
Joe
Tech Contributor
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 32,910
Likes: 2,402
From: Anthony TX
CI 6,7,8,9,11 Vet
St. Jude Donor '08
Joe
C5 and C6 cars are very dependent on having proper electrical power. Start at the battery. Have it tested and make sure that it 100% good.
The battery cables need to be very clean and properly TORQUED to the battery 97-2003 c5 = 11 FT/LBS torque. If you cna move the battery cables by hand, they are way too loose.
Read and examine your DTCs. See the procedure below. If you had an under voltage issue, you could have damaged your COLUMN LOCK RELAY if you have a late model C5 What year c5 do you have??
Charge the battery,, CLEAR ALL the DTCs and see what you get.
READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.
Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.
Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........
Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.
C5 and C6 cars are very dependent on having proper electrical power. Start at the battery. Have it tested and make sure that it 100% good.
The battery cables need to be very clean and properly TORQUED to the battery 97-2003 c5 = 11 FT/LBS torque. If you cna move the battery cables by hand, they are way too loose.
Read and examine your DTCs. See the procedure below. If you had an under voltage issue, you could have damaged your COLUMN LOCK RELAY if you have a late model C5 What year c5 do you have??
Charge the battery,, CLEAR ALL the DTCs and see what you get.
READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)
This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.
The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.
Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.
If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.
NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.
These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs
Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:
http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php
http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php
Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!
NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.
Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.
Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........
Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,585
Likes: 28
From: Cedaredge Colorado
The codes were many, I went out this am and fired off fine, warmed up took a short cruise, shut down. Waited bout half hr and zero start.
Installed some seats, tried again and started right up no problem. Doors open the whole time, So while running I blipped down to auto parts store and had them test the battery.
Had a optima yellow top in it, which I thought would last a lifetime. So really didn't think that would be the cause, but sure enough the batt failed load test. He ran it twice to make sure and failed again.
235.00 for new one, cranked right up, I dunno even seemed to run better. Got home shut er down half hr later fired right up again, cruised around for hr, come home shut down, fired right back up 15 mins later. Goin to take another in a bit and see how she does.
Also Bill I have the GM service books, 3 volume set. Which a guys needs some OJT on to sort out, takes abit to find what you are lookin for.
While at the auto parts store I picked up a batt tender to keep things topped off.
Thanks again
Joe
Installed some seats, tried again and started right up no problem. Doors open the whole time, So while running I blipped down to auto parts store and had them test the battery.
Had a optima yellow top in it, which I thought would last a lifetime. So really didn't think that would be the cause, but sure enough the batt failed load test. He ran it twice to make sure and failed again.
235.00 for new one, cranked right up, I dunno even seemed to run better. Got home shut er down half hr later fired right up again, cruised around for hr, come home shut down, fired right back up 15 mins later. Goin to take another in a bit and see how she does.
Also Bill I have the GM service books, 3 volume set. Which a guys needs some OJT on to sort out, takes abit to find what you are lookin for.
While at the auto parts store I picked up a batt tender to keep things topped off.
Thanks again
Joe
