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broke the rear:(

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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 10:07 PM
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Default broke the rear:(

Took my z06 vette out tonite was going into third gear and wheel hopped and broke rear case pretty bad..Its a DTE 3.90 rear..

Im told its labor intensive
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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"I'm told it's labor intensive"

You were told correctly.

Might want to add a trans/rear brace, when putting every thing back together.

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...ategory_id=152
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Old Jun 12, 2013 | 11:10 PM
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WHEW! Thats a pretty stout rear..... Any wheel hop is BAD..

If it were me,,,, I would man up and beg borrow and pleed, help,, tools and knowledge to do the job in my own drive way.

Find a bullet proof rear,,, remove and install it your self..
Recommendation,,,,,,,,,,,,, RICK KIM,,, RKT56,, "forum member" OUTSTANDING quality product!

BC
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 01:17 AM
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Somehow, I think the OP is capable of doing the job.

It's not that hard, just a lot of work, and has to be done in the correct order.

Start by removing the intake manifold........

BlownBlu, at the track? Or on the street? Playing with the drag radials?

Ron
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 12:22 PM
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If I can do it 3 times (2 times completly by myself) in my garage you can do it, its really not that bad at all, I even completly rebuilt the stock rear end too which was harder than taking everyting out.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
"I'm told it's labor intensive"

You were told correctly.

Might want to add a trans/rear brace, when putting every thing back together.

http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...ategory_id=152









Make sure and get the brace. My diff was built by Rick Kim, and it's been strong and silent with both an ECS, and PFadt braces.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 12:54 PM
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Ouch. It's a bit of work but not as much as the trans or a clutch. Drop the rear suspension and cradle, lower the rear of the drivetrain a bit and pull the diff off.

The big question is the health of the transmission case and output shaft. One or both of them also often break when the diff lets go.


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
Find a bullet proof rear,,,
No such thing once the car wheel hops.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 01:32 PM
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i got to figure out a way to make it not wheel hop...its got 18s nt05s..295/35/18..I was jus on the street and goin into third gear its only 450rwhp...the brace and maybe poly bushings
I found alot of articles w pics to get her done...
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 04:26 PM
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coilovers help a lot with wheel hop
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 04:29 PM
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Originally Posted by AntonioZ06
coilovers help a lot with wheel hop
yes dte told me that...good point thanx
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 04:46 PM
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Find a bullet proof rear,,, remove and install it your self..
Recommendation,,,,,,,,,,,,, RICK KIM,,, RKT56,, "forum member" OUTSTANDING quality product!

BC[/QUOTE]


Rick does outstanding work. My diff is built by him and my next one will be as well.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Bill Curlee
WHEW! Thats a pretty stout rear..... Any wheel hop is BAD..

If it were me,,,, I would man up and beg borrow and pleed, help,, tools and knowledge to do the job in my own drive way.

Find a bullet proof rear,,, remove and install it your self..
Recommendation,,,,,,,,,,,,, RICK KIM,,, RKT56,, "forum member" OUTSTANDING quality product!

BC
I run a Level 4 tranny and diff from Rick and he installed DSS Poly bushings at the same time. I also run an ECS brace. With coilovers I don't have much wheel hop if I'm on it hard but I only run 345 PS2's.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:46 PM
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Pfadt Coilovers, Pfadt brace, 1/4" aluminum tunnel plate, rebuilt stock diff with C6 Z06 clutch packs and springs and DSS poly torque tube bushings and I dont get wheel hop with Nitto NT555Rs 305-35R18. Just spin. Lots and lots of spin.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:26 PM
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whats a better brace the ECS or the DTE?
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 07:08 PM
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I think their basic difference is construction material. ECS is all aluminum, and DTE is steel. The difference would only be a few pounds.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by zeevette
I think their basic difference is construction material. ECS is all aluminum, and DTE is steel. The difference would only be a few pounds.
I've had both the DTE & ECS.

I prefer the ECS.

I feel getting the four strut rods at their proper tensions, is easier than the DTE units.
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Old Jun 16, 2013 | 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by bumble-z
I've had both the DTE & ECS.

I prefer the ECS.

I feel getting the four strut rods at their proper tensions, is easier than the DTE units.
I have the DTE brace. It's a major pain in the *** to do when it is in the car, but if your driveline is out (which yours will be) it isn't bad at all. I have not used the ECS brace, but I like the DTE better as it is steel and not aluminum.
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To broke the rear:(

Old Jun 18, 2013 | 08:38 PM
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Took the rear out today..was preetty easy alot of work but simple...
I found my car already had a brace in it and still broke the case of the dif on the right side..
putting the 3.42s in
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 09:24 PM
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How do these braces work anyway? Anyone have a photo of how they are installed on the diff? Reading posts like this makes me worry about mine which is stock but shakes/hops bad.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Atok
How do these braces work anyway? Anyone have a photo of how they are installed on the diff? Reading posts like this makes me worry about mine which is stock but shakes/hops bad.



http://www.eastcoastsupercharging.co...trut-brace.pdf
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