no more chirping, however
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
no more chirping, however
So a while back I had the infamous chirping of the belts. i used some silicone spray to narrow down which pully the noise was coming from . after a while, the chirping just went away.
However, now I have a different noise. it seems to almost be a clank. usually louder when first start up the car and gets quieter, but then it's off and on (mostly on LOL) it's VERY ANNOYING!
Last night I removed BOTH BELTS, and it still made the noise. the main pulley doesn't seem to be wobbling much at all. Can I assume maybe it's the water pump?
fyi...its a 98 w/ 66k miles
However, now I have a different noise. it seems to almost be a clank. usually louder when first start up the car and gets quieter, but then it's off and on (mostly on LOL) it's VERY ANNOYING!
Last night I removed BOTH BELTS, and it still made the noise. the main pulley doesn't seem to be wobbling much at all. Can I assume maybe it's the water pump?
fyi...its a 98 w/ 66k miles
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 2,479
Likes: 36
A "clank"? Hmmmm, never heard that one before. Has your harmonic balancer walked (disconnected from the rubber bond and moved inwards) and now it's touching the front engine cover? Make sure it is still in alignment with the rest of the pulleys. I'm not sure the water pump would make a clanking noise unless the pulley was hitting something. Furthermore if you removed both belts and the noise is still there, it can't be the water pump.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
I had the same thoughts on why it would still make noise with no belts, but didn't know if something else was connected.
so if the HB has walked, I guess it should be replaced......
but it's not all the time, sometimes it runs quiet.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Metals expand and contract with temperature. You may be right at a point that just that little bit makes a difference. I agree that it sounds like the damper. Shine a light down there and look to see if the outer ring has detached from the inner ring. You will see the rubber elastomer sticking out from between the two pieces. Or more accurately, that the outer ring has likely backed towards the engine.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
appointment is set with my mechanic for Wednesday. Replacing harmonic balancer, idler/tensioner pullies, and belts. Going with aftermarket balancer as he said if I am even considering it, do it while they have it apart.
said it will be around $650-$700 out the door ....little more than i was hoping, but better to do it now before the darn thing comes apart and causes severe damage.
said it will be around $650-$700 out the door ....little more than i was hoping, but better to do it now before the darn thing comes apart and causes severe damage.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,243
Likes: 5
From: Loveland CO
sounds a bit rich for a ballancer swap. BUT make sure they do the new OEM crank pulley bolt... YTT bolts are not reausable. Are you going to do a UD pulley? I would concider a 10% UD... more then that you will see steering at low speeds and Alt/WP will reduce at idle causing dimming lights and warmer temps.
Last edited by RedZMonte; Jul 18, 2013 at 02:52 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
sounds a bit rich for a ballancer swap. BUT make sure they do the new OEM crank pulley bolt... YTT bolts are not reausable. Are you going to do a UD pulley? I would concider a 10% UD... more then that you will see steering at low speeds and Alt/WP will reduce at idle causing dimming lights and warmer temps.
he did mention something about a 10% UD
he actually said it would be about:
$270 for the performance pulley
$260 for labor ($65 x 4 hrs)
-------
$530
then add the parts for other pulleys, belts, and tax
I didn't think it was TOO steep. He almost always comes in UNDER what he estimates. Guess we will see
Now, the question is...... is it safe to drive at all the way it is, or should I just let it sit ? I've been dying to drive it to work because the weather is so nice lately (about 11 miles each way - city driving)
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
I will remind him not to use the OEM bolt (he may already know).
he did mention something about a 10% UD
he actually said it would be about:
$270 for the performance pulley
$260 for labor ($65 x 4 hrs)
-------
$530
then add the parts for other pulleys, belts, and tax
I didn't think it was TOO steep. He almost always comes in UNDER what he estimates. Guess we will see
Now, the question is...... is it safe to drive at all the way it is, or should I just let it sit ? I've been dying to drive it to work because the weather is so nice lately (about 11 miles each way - city driving)
he did mention something about a 10% UD
he actually said it would be about:
$270 for the performance pulley
$260 for labor ($65 x 4 hrs)
-------
$530
then add the parts for other pulleys, belts, and tax
I didn't think it was TOO steep. He almost always comes in UNDER what he estimates. Guess we will see
Now, the question is...... is it safe to drive at all the way it is, or should I just let it sit ? I've been dying to drive it to work because the weather is so nice lately (about 11 miles each way - city driving)
. Dropping the pan to replace components and the seal is very pricey on these cars. Dont risk it. Thats assuming it is the damper.. did the mech confirm by observing it in person?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
Let it sit!!! When it fails, it can destroy your timing cover and oil pan! Ask me how I know . Dropping the pan to replace components and the seal is very pricey on these cars. Dont risk it.
Thats assuming it is the damper.. did the mech confirm by observing it in person?
. Dropping the pan to replace components and the seal is very pricey on these cars. Dont risk it. Thats assuming it is the damper.. did the mech confirm by observing it in person?
I squeezed in with my cell phone and took a pic. if you look close, you can see that it is separating and shifted towards the engine about 1/4"
(LET ME KNOW YOUR THOUGHTS) .....and the belt is shifted off
the back side of it is EXTREMELY close to engine block and my assumption is it's rubbing . when it quits, it probably moves forward away from the engine.
I pretty much have already made the decision to let it sit until its fixed.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Its your call, but I had the same minor scraping you were hearing till one day shortly after, I went to start the car, F#^&in wham! thing launched back into the timing cover violently and caused around $1k more to have the pan removed to weld and surface, a new seal, and a new timing cover. Just from turning it over.
Anyways, no one has mentioned it yet, but if you have performance aspirations for the car in the future, you should have the crank pinned while this is being done. Then you can handle big power without worrying about damper slippage.
Anyways, no one has mentioned it yet, but if you have performance aspirations for the car in the future, you should have the crank pinned while this is being done. Then you can handle big power without worrying about damper slippage.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
Its your call, but I had the same minor scraping you were hearing till one day shortly after, I went to start the car, F#^&in wham! thing launched back into the timing cover violently and caused around $1k more to have the pan removed to weld and surface, a new seal, and a new timing cover. Just from turning it over.
Anyways, no one has mentioned it yet, but if you have performance aspirations for the car in the future, you should have the crank pinned while this is being done. Then you can handle big power without worrying about damper slippage.
Anyways, no one has mentioned it yet, but if you have performance aspirations for the car in the future, you should have the crank pinned while this is being done. Then you can handle big power without worrying about damper slippage.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
Most dampers come with a slot that a metal piece is meant to sit inside of. You drill holes and set this piece into the crank snout and install the damper over it so that it cannot turn on the crank when it sees excess force. Its usually only a concern with something big like a supercharger. But its never a bad idea. You dont sound like you need it though.
Team Owner
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 87,315
Likes: 1,585
From: Western NY
sounds a bit rich for a ballancer swap. BUT make sure they do the new OEM crank pulley bolt... YTT bolts are not reausable. Are you going to do a UD pulley? I would concider a 10% UD... more then that you will see steering at low speeds and Alt/WP will reduce at idle causing dimming lights and warmer temps.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 3,163
Likes: 6
From: Oceanside California
I did an ATI in stock size. The aluminum outer shell one, for lighter weight. But for an under drive, it doesnt have to be ATI. I was interested in TrickFlow's UD pulley for their quality and price when I was considering an UD. Less than $175. Check out Summit racing. Even summit makes one in UD sizes. They are good too. Other favorites are Powerbond, TCI, fluidamper etc.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,501
Likes: 185
From: Erie PA
So , my car was supposed to be ready to pick up after work today.....got a call from the garage and said they woukdnt be done til tomorrow because they had to order parts. "the old sway bar links didn't make it" ????? What would that have to do with the pulleys? lol Its only $40 more, but one more wwithout my car in nice weather 