Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question
I hope this doesn't sound too stupid but is there a way to bleed the master cylinder without bleeding at the calipers?
My brakes are still a little "spongy" and I think I need to go back in and bleed again, but want to know if there's another bleed point besides the calipers, thanks :cheers:
My brakes are still a little "spongy" and I think I need to go back in and bleed again, but want to know if there's another bleed point besides the calipers, thanks :cheers:
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
Yes, Mark. I don't have the manual here at work :p: but I was reading last weekend the MC bleeding procedure with it on the car. Sorry, I don't exactly remember what it said but it suggests doing it for the reason you're asking.
[Modified by Patches, 12:08 PM 6/28/2002]
[Modified by Patches, 12:08 PM 6/28/2002]
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Patches)
thanks :cheers: ...time to go diggin' :D
[Modified by Mean Green 2000, 1:50 PM 6/28/2002]
[Modified by Mean Green 2000, 1:50 PM 6/28/2002]
Melting Slicks
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From: DFW TX
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
Yes, you will need a vacuum bleeder. There are several systems on the market, but basically you connect a pump to the master and it sucks the air out. If you haven't done so already I would purchase some speed bleeders, they do a great job. :cheers:
Le Mans Master
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From: Hot Springs AR
Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
I tried to do a search to see what you had posted before (I remember the post about the bleed sequence), but was wondering if you'd bled the ABS? I don't have my service manuals in yet, but traditionally the master cylinder is "bench bled", meaning there's no bleed valve.
Also, if you've bled everything in sight, could you possibly have brake pads that have beveled and moved back from the rotors, or a wheel bearing with some slop in it that could cause the pads to be moved back, etc.?
Hope this helps,
Mike
Also, if you've bled everything in sight, could you possibly have brake pads that have beveled and moved back from the rotors, or a wheel bearing with some slop in it that could cause the pads to be moved back, etc.?
Hope this helps,
Mike
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Godspeed)
Yes, you will need a vacuum bleeder. There are several systems on the market, but basically you connect a pump to the master and it sucks the air out. If you haven't done so already I would purchase some speed bleeders, they do a great job. :cheers:
how are people doing this at home and not have one of these?
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
I did install the speed bleeders :D.....got no idea about a vacuum bleeder though?
how are people doing this at home and not have one of these?
how are people doing this at home and not have one of these?
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Patches)
guess there's no way to get something like that locally huh?
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
Hmm . . . haven't seen one in the local parts store but wouldn't hurt to call and ask. Worst case, the links are below for pressure and vacuum bleeders.
Power Bleeder http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Vacuum Bleeder http://www.mityvac.com/
Power Bleeder http://www.motiveproducts.com/
Vacuum Bleeder http://www.mityvac.com/
Pro
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
The service manual says this for a manual bleed procedure...
If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, then it must be bled in the following manner, before bleeding any caliper:
A. Disconnect the forward (blind end) brake pipe connection at the master cylinder.
B. Allow the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder piston bore until it begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port.
C. Connect the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder and tighten.
D. Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder to purge air from the bore. Tighten the connection and then release the brake pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the bore. Tighten
Tighten the brake pipe tube nut to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).
E. When clear fluid flows from the forward connection, repeat steps 1 and 2 to bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl) connection.
If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, then it must be bled in the following manner, before bleeding any caliper:
A. Disconnect the forward (blind end) brake pipe connection at the master cylinder.
B. Allow the brake fluid to fill the master cylinder piston bore until it begins to flow from the forward pipe connector port.
C. Connect the forward brake pipe to the master cylinder and tighten.
D. Depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold. Loosen the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder to purge air from the bore. Tighten the connection and then release the brake pedal slowly. Wait 15 seconds. Repeat the sequence, including the 15 second wait, until all air is removed from the bore. Tighten
Tighten the brake pipe tube nut to 18 N·m (13 lb ft).
E. When clear fluid flows from the forward connection, repeat steps 1 and 2 to bleed the master cylinder at the rear (cowl) connection.
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (willi)
thanks Willi...I pulled out the manuals and found the same thing, guess it's back to the lines and trying not to spray fluid all over the engine bay :eek:
Burning Brakes
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
Mark-
Have a care here. That brake fluid will ruin your nice new painted pieces if it gets on them for any length of time at all!
Have a care here. That brake fluid will ruin your nice new painted pieces if it gets on them for any length of time at all!
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (George Cooper)
I sure will....I was just hoping there was a better way than cracking open the lines and pumping the brakes....oh well, I guess that's what shop towels are for :D:D:D :cheers:
Drifting
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (George Cooper)
Mark-
Have a care here. That brake fluid will ruin your nice new painted pieces if it gets on them for any length of time at all!
Have a care here. That brake fluid will ruin your nice new painted pieces if it gets on them for any length of time at all!
It comes off very easy with water. A lot of people expect brake fluid to be more like oil, but it rinses off nicely with water. Just rinse it off then dry with a towel. I have found that if you just wipe it off without rinsing you leave a film behind.
[Modified by SoCal C5, 3:00 PM 6/28/2002]
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04
Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (SoCal C5)
got a big 'ole puff of air outta both sides of the MC....we'll see if that does the trick in the am :D :cheers:
thanks guys :cheers:
thanks guys :cheers:
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Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
finished bleeding the MC this morning and the pedal feels MUCH tighter....I'm going to bleed the calipers on more time then take her out for round one of the Baer Rotor Seasoning procedure :)
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From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Re: Bleeding the Brakes...One More Question (Mean Green 2000)
finished bleeding the MC this morning and the pedal feels MUCH tighter....I'm going to bleed the calipers on more time then take her out for round one of the Baer Rotor Seasoning procedure :)