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The only reason I purchased the Monster Stage 2 is because it was only $50 more than the Stage 1 and after talking to a few owners and the company I was told their wouldn't be a difference in feeling really between the two, and I plan on growing too come around next year sometime. Now people who put those puck style Stage 3's in their bolt on cars they daily drive That's crazy!!
i'm not sure why they tell people this. there is a difference between organic carbon and kevlar. they both can be daily driven but there is a difference. my only guess on why they try and sell everyone the stage 2 is that most the people who call them are more concerned with abuse potential than how easy the clutch is to feather
they did the same thing when i called. they were like oh but the stage 2. i shot that one down. i know how kevlar drives. it's not bad by any means but it has a faster engagement than organic and really is not suited to continuous stop and go city driving of which i do quite a bit.
i'm not sure why they tell people this. there is a difference between organic carbon and kevlar. they both can be daily driven but there is a difference. my only guess on why they try and sell everyone the stage 2 is that most the people who call them are more concerned with abuse potential than how easy the clutch is to feather
they did the same thing when i called. they were like oh but the stage 2. i shot that one down. i know how kevlar drives. it's not bad by any means but it has a faster engagement than organic and really is not suited to continuous stop and go city driving of which i do quite a bit.
this z06 is my commuter mule
My clutch does engage rather quickly, no doubt. With the 18lbs flywheel the car shutters and the driveline shakes a little if I don't give it enough gas at times, but that rarely happens. Where I live there's a lot of stop of go right now because they have the interstate closed down to 1 lane that connects a lot of the towns around here to Fort Smith, and the clutch does fine, actually don't have any issues really, but at times I do wish it would engage a little slower like you're referring to. I've never understood how people daily drive puck style clutches, especially people who don't even need them.
My clutch does engage rather quickly, no doubt. With the 18lbs flywheel the car shutters and the driveline shakes a little if I don't give it enough gas at times, but that rarely happens. Where I live there's a lot of stop of go right now because they have the interstate closed down to 1 lane that connects a lot of the towns around here to Fort Smith, and the clutch does fine, actually don't have any issues really, but at times I do wish it would engage a little slower like you're referring to. I've never understood how people daily drive puck style clutches, especially people who don't even need them.
i had one in a turbo honda. ceramic composite on a puc clutch. it drove me bonkers. i wanted to murder the car more than i could count
i also had a kevlar clutch in my c4 and it wasn't bad. i did get use to it but nothing offers that feather touch engagement like organic. truth be told my z06 isn't going over 400lb of torque ever so the two wasn't needed. for those that make more power after stage 2 i'd go twin disc. i absolutely hate ceramic and metallic clutches in street cars
i had one in a turbo honda. ceramic composite on a puc clutch. it drove me bonkers. i wanted to murder the car more than i could count
i also had a kevlar clutch in my c4 and it wasn't bad. i did get use to it but nothing offers that feather touch engagement like organic. truth be told my z06 isn't going over 400lb of torque ever so the two wasn't needed. for those that make more power after stage 2 i'd go twin disc. i absolutely hate ceramic and metallic clutches in street cars
That's where I'm stuck. Can't decide if I want to go with a light heads/cam setup and put out a little above 400rwhp or leave factory heads/cam and just strap an A&A kit on it and make 500+rwhp. If I go heads/cam route I'll just keep my stage 2. If I go with boost I'll definitely be ordering a Monster Twin Disk set-up. You'll never catch me with a puck style clutch. A lot of people run them and claim they're happy with them though somehow.
I've never understood how people daily drive puck style clutches, especially people who don't even need them.
Daily drove on a 6-puck ceramic clutch with a lightweight aluminum flywheel for over a year on my last car... Couldn't launch under 1500 rpms or slip it at all without major shudder/chatter. Made me want to drive it right off a cliff. However, it was amazing at the track on slicks. Slipping it @ 4500rpms WOT on the 2-step and very crisp shifts with such a quick disengage/re-engage.
My 'vette is going to get an organic or kevlar twin disk when it comes time. It won't like heat from slipping it too much at the track, but I'll deal with that since this car is my daily.
These clutch threads are hard to bring solid info into. The clutch subject can be a very "subjective" discussion. What one guys likes, another guy will think drives like ****...etc..etc. If you have a solid grasp on "what" your looking for then I think it will narrow down your search. Here are some decent articles about the "whole" clutch ideology.
Thank you so much for these links, it is really awesome to find some objective sources of information on clutches. Now I have more thinking to do before I get my ailing clutch replaced...
I have a Monster Stage 2 with 17 lb. flywheel. Not bad, but the pedal is a little too stiff for my liking. It becomes a chore in heavy stop and go traffic, especially on an incline. I wish I would've went with the McLeod RST or RSX. My friend has that on his vette and the pedal feel is amazingly soft, probably softer than stock feel and is rated for higher power than the Monster. The next go around, Ill be switching to a McCleod.
I have a Monster Stage 2 with 17 lb. flywheel. Not bad, but the pedal is a little too stiff for my liking. It becomes a chore in heavy stop and go traffic, especially on an incline. I wish I would've went with the McLeod RST or RSX. My friend has that on his vette and the pedal feel is amazingly soft, probably softer than stock feel and is rated for higher power than the Monster. The next go around, Ill be switching to a McCleod.
Do you have an aftermarket master cylinder in the car? As that will increase pedal effort with the assist spring having to be removed. Our clutches have only 8% more bearing load required to disengage the clutch which most people say they like as it provides better feedback of the engagement/disengagement point. A larger bore master cylinder will also move more fluid causing the window to seemingly be smaller as it takes less pedal travel to actuate the slave. The upside is that it always for quicker shifts.
I finally purchased a RPS 2 weeks ago. Was like most of you all trying to figure out which to go with. As LSOHOLIC states every cars need is different.
I chose my new RPS because #1 it's a "street car" and needs to act like one. # 2 I want the best ET for my street car which is a terror on wheels (10.30 NA so far), Top stick guys with the best 60' helped me make this choice. Sorry... Gary thanks for helping with this. I'm sure I'll be in the 9's NA
From: Wylie TX --> Less is More, except under the hood !
Monster Stage 2 with 18lb flywheel here.
So far I love it, and love the feeling of the reduced drive line weight.
It feels just a pinch stiffer than stock. Not much really.
I have the stock hydraulics and find the fluid gets dark as usual.
I can "feel" when the clutch fluid needs to be replaced.
Its an easy job with the remote bleeder.
I can feel the clutch get easier to engage once I bleed the clutch.
Thats due to the stock hydraulics though, not the clutch.
I don't really know. It was just so pretty, and expensive I kind of assumed. Wasn't rated for anywhere near the power I have now. I think I got the ricer impression from seeing Exedy stickers on tricked out ricers.
I don't really know. It was just so pretty, and expensive I kind of assumed. Wasn't rated for anywhere near the power I have now. I think I got the ricer impression from seeing Exedy stickers on tricked out ricers.
exedy is daikin. big OE manufacturer. in the old days they got a huge following for making import clutches that actually held together.
the only clutches i have seen for the c5 are an OE replacement and it's hard to say who makes what. it may just be a LUK clutch that exedy does the balance job on and repacks
besides that it's all really high end. twin disc clutchs and $1000 and up type stuff. even with that you don't really hear about exedy with LS engines much anymore. my guess would be companies like mcloud and monster are why. you can get specialty parts from companies that really know the LS engine.
exedy doesn't really specialize in anything
one nice thing i will say about exedy though. every single one of their clutches i have used was balanced out of the box. you can see drill holes on the flywheel and weights added to the pressure plate.
I PM'd the OP for a suggestion.
In the real world reality matters.
HP, street vs all out etc. + $ investment.
His choice will be soon and he will be ok for what he needs/wants whichever his choice.
How fast do you want to go (motors) ? Usually is $$$. Clutches is pretty much the same.