ANOTHER dual climate thread...
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
ANOTHER dual climate thread...
The passenger side climate **** recently stopped working on my 2000 Vert. It will blow whatever temp I set it to on the driver side but blow hot on the passenger side and the **** being adjusted wont affect it. Thought it may be an actuator untill I took the HVAC module out and re soldered the resistors normally associated with dim lighting, put it back in and now the passenger side only blows cold, Im thinking it has to be the module, anyone know specifically which joints fail on these or how to fix the passenger ***** operations specifically? Thanks a bunch!
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
UPDATE: I took the module off again to double check the solders on the **** itself, they seemed good and i hit em again to be sure, then i put it back on and now it only blows hot again on the passenger side.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
Update: Pulled the dash to verify operation of the actuators (BTW: There were no active codes in HVAC on the system) I opened up the passenger side actuator to find all the teeth intact and no electrical issues, this confirms my belief that it is in fact the control unit itself.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Update: Pulled the dash to verify operation of the actuators (BTW: There were no active codes in HVAC on the system) I opened up the passenger side actuator to find all the teeth intact and no electrical issues, this confirms my belief that it is in fact the control unit itself.
Are you using the dic to read the codes? A lot of scanners will not detect the actuator codes.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
Originally no, which is exactly what you said, didn't pick any up on my scan tool. I then used the DIC and found multiple codes but they seemed to just be history codes from when I had the car on and the actuator unplugged to look for signals (which I found my multimeter to be broken so Ill need to get another one tomorrow to finish that test)
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
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From: San Antonio TX
More specifically the only codes for the actuators were history codes (Short to ground, both sides and passenger side out of range) Haven't had time yet to clear and check em with the passenger actuator plugged in.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,596
Likes: 67
From: Bahama North Carolina
Many codes become history as soon as you turn the car off. Reset them and sometime the actuators will work for a while.
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Farmington CT
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Suffix on codes will have a H or C,
H, history
C, Current
2. It takes 10 seconds to pull the codes with the #1/4 buttons, I'm guessing you needed time to start and check for hot/cold air?
3. Have you swapped the "Known Good" actuator with the "suspect" actuator and then replicate the discrepancy?
4. Yes, they are the same pn.
5. Better off to post actual codes for T/S
6. I'd go back and look at 3.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
1. In a previous post, history or current, you had a question,
Suffix on codes will have a H or C,
H, history
C, Current
2. It takes 10 seconds to pull the codes with the #1/4 buttons, I'm guessing you needed time to start and check for hot/cold air?
3. Have you swapped the "Known Good" actuator with the "suspect" actuator and then replicate the discrepancy?
4. Yes, they are the same pn.
5. Better off to post actual codes for T/S
6. I'd go back and look at 3.
Suffix on codes will have a H or C,
H, history
C, Current
2. It takes 10 seconds to pull the codes with the #1/4 buttons, I'm guessing you needed time to start and check for hot/cold air?
3. Have you swapped the "Known Good" actuator with the "suspect" actuator and then replicate the discrepancy?
4. Yes, they are the same pn.
5. Better off to post actual codes for T/S
6. I'd go back and look at 3.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 478
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio TX
3. Have you swapped the "Known Good" actuator with the "suspect" actuator and then replicate the discrepancy?
Thanks!! That proved it, was the actuator not the module. Gonna order a new one and start putting it all back together.
Thanks!! That proved it, was the actuator not the module. Gonna order a new one and start putting it all back together.