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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 12:42 PM
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Good Morning All;

I am a new member and am looking for assistance with the Service Column Lock issue on a 1998 Corvette. I had the CLB installed by Corvettes of Houston. They in turn advised me that the BCM was bad. I order a flashed BCM and installed it myself following the provided instructions. I STILL have the Service Column Lock Issue. I scanned for DTC's using an CanOBD2 scanner and did not find any DTC's. The next thing in my plan is to replace the battery. Currently have CCA of 800 and 110 Reserve Capacity.

I am at wits end and my corvette is a huge paperweight. Any thoughts surely appreciated.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 12:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Ptorican
Good Morning All;

I am a new member and am looking for assistance with the Service Column Lock issue on a 1998 Corvette. I had the CLB installed by Corvettes of Houston. They in turn advised me that the BCM was bad. I order a flashed BCM and installed it myself following the provided instructions. I STILL have the Service Column Lock Issue. I scanned for DTC's using an CanOBD2 scanner and did not find any DTC's. The next thing in my plan is to replace the battery. Currently have CCA of 800 and 110 Reserve Capacity.

I am at wits end and my corvette is a huge paperweight. Any thoughts surely appreciated.


Good morning LOST!

First things first! YOU DO NOT need a scanner to read C5 DTCs!!!!!


Follow the procedure posted below:

If your battery test good, dont worry abiut the battery. What does the Digital DIC VOLT METER and the analog meter on the IPC read with the key ON?

Please post voltage. Go read the battery voltage directly on the battery terminals with a volt meter and post the reading.

The reason that Im asking you to measure all these voltages is, there could be a chance that your ignition switch could be BAD and not providing the proper voltages to the BCM.

The next thing that I recommend that you do is; with the ignition switch ON, read ALL the BCM fuses to ground and see what voltage readings that you see. It should be full battery voltage BUT,,,, if the ignition switch is BAD, it could be very low!

There ar two test points on top of each fuse. Measure both of them to ground and see what you get.

When the Column Lock Bypass was NOT connected, was your column lock motor moving the lock bolt IN and OUT of lock?



READING YOUR Engine Diagnostic Codes



The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:

1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine. NOTE! You can read the DTCs with the engine running and or driving down the road but it can distract you. BE careful! Some DTCs clear themselves when you turn the ignition OFF!

2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold OPTIONS
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL four times within a 10-second period.


Initially, on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.
There are two kinds of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current C code indicates a malfunction is present and active in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes.
More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.
Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.
Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except English/Metric (E/M). Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press and hold the RESET button To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles.
Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5. You can GOOGLE the DTC and also find information on it.




Here is very good site that explains the DTCs:


http://www.corvette-web-central.com/C5DTCcode.html


http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php



Make sure to include the H or C suffix!!
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 01:54 PM
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Ptorican

8VETTE7 is the resident COLUMN LOCK EXPERT. You should be excited that he is on your post!

The codes will tell us where you need to look!

BC
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:02 PM
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I am grateful all of you are on the post. I will have to wait for the sun to go down before I can get info. It is way to hot out there and I have absolutely no shade.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 02:35 PM
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8Vette7;

Vehicle is automatic. The column is not locked or locking, only have the Service Column Lock and Pull Key message, and vehicle shuts off at 2mph.

Current Battery voltage is 12.41. Trying to get the info requested by Bill but the sun is killing me.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 06:53 PM
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8Vette7;

The K harness is disconnected and the CLB is connected under the dash. The battery voltage was measured at the battery with a multi-meter. Recent recheck shows the voltage dropping to 12.14.

I am on my way now to run the onboard diagnostic.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 07:00 PM
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Well; I'm back from trying to run the onboard diagnostics. It was unsuccessful, the only message that will display in the DIC is the "pull Key". ????? Could that be because I replaced the body control module????

If not that I need a book with instructions for dummies. I am truly frustrated.
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 08:18 PM
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8Vette7 & Bill I finally retrieved the info. Thanks to my son.

Thank you for the encouraging comments.

PCM, TCS, RTD DID NOT DISPLAY AT ALL.
40-BCM B2587 H B2588 H
B2593 H B2592 H
B2723 H B2721 H
B0502 H B2735 H
B2482 H B2527 H

60-IPC NO CODES

80-RADIO U1064 H

99-HVAC U1064 H U1096 H
U1160 H B0361 H C

AO-LDCM B2282 H B2284 H
B2262 H B2264 H
U1096 H

A1-RDCM B2253 H B2283 H
B2285 H B2263 H
B2265 H U1064 H

A6-SCM NO COMM
BO-RFA NO CODES
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Old Aug 12, 2013 | 10:06 PM
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Thank you will begin again in the morniing.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 10:57 AM
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Good Morning;

I have cleared the DIC, and these are the new DTC's

PCM - P1432 H C
TCS - none
RTD - NONE
BCM - NONE
TPC - NONE
RADIO - NONE
HVAC - NONE
LDCM - B2262 H B2264 H
RDCM - B2263 H B2265 H
SCM - NO COMM
RFA - NONE

The battery will need to be replaced, will not charge over 12.4.
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Old Aug 13, 2013 | 10:02 PM
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Good Evening;

I have not purchased another battery as of yet but instead used the battery on my truck which is good and had 12.7 volts at the battery. I connected it to the car and within about 30 minutes starting seeing a decline in the voltage.

So, on the hunt I will be for the parasitic draw.

I am also curious as to having the fuel shut off increased for the column lock to about 200MPH. Will this put my car back on the road while I continue to locate the drain on the battery? I really miss driving my car.

I wish I had found this forum sooner. Great info here. Thanks to all of you.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 02:29 AM
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A tip of the hat to you guys doing the help.

I have a column lock issue also, but just shake the wheel to activate the lock release. I assume the fault is age, but assumptions haven't really worked well in my life's history.........and cars don't fix their selves.
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Old Aug 14, 2013 | 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by strand rider
A tip of the hat to you guys doing the help.

I have a column lock issue also, but just shake the wheel to activate the lock release. I assume the fault is age, but assumptions haven't really worked well in my life's history.........and cars don't fix their selves.
If you don't soon get the Column Lock Bypass, you will have to change your forum name to STRANDED RIDER!

Once the column lock motor fails in the locked position, you will have to get a new column lock assy and that is expensive and time consuming to replace it.

Get the LMC5 and put that issue to bed!

BC

BC
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