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Installed the hurst shifter on my 2000 vette. I always have a problem going into reverse. It feels like I hit a wall trying to get into gear, or I'm only in half-way, grinds, and pops out.
First gear goes in more often, but seems hard to find at times. Every other gear goes in without any problems.
I adjusted the front/rear screws as per manual. Unscrewing 1/4 turn after the bolt hits the lever.
My Hurst is the same way.I am getting ready to install a Kirban to see if it helps.Changing the transmission fluid seemed to help some but it is still not as easy as I woud like!!
My Hurst is the same way.I am getting ready to install a Kirban to see if it helps.Changing the transmission fluid seemed to help some but it is still not as easy as I woud like!!
Good to know I'm not the only one with this problem. Let me know how to Kirban goes.
My experience is that if car will not go into 1st or reverse first time, put it in 2nd or other gear, then go to the gear you want... seems to get the gears closer to alignment if and intermediate gear is engaged. Sometimes I automatically let the clutch out just enough to start to engage 2nd, then go to 1st. I think it is more a characteristic of the transmission instead of the shifter.
I just changed the bushings in the housing mounts for my hurst shifter. I drove it about 60 miles down to Myrtle Beach and it did fine. Got ready to come home and the bitch wouldn't get in first gear, by the time I got it home all it has is 4th gear. I guess the bushings settled, or I just didn't get the box tight enough. I hope the box is just sliding back and forth. I might just put my stock shifter back in it was smooth as butter. I hope its not time for the transmission upgrade but it really wouldn't be a surprise. I don't beat on it.
That could explain my issue. However, I didn't see a spot on the hurst to mount the pin
The pin does not have to engage the upper part of the shifter... The stock shifter has a slot for the pin to slide up in just to retain it..
You just need to insert the pin into the black plastic housing on the front of the shifter box and into the shaft to lock the shifter in the neutral position,.
The shaft position should only be off if your loosened the coupling to the shaft that goes to the transmission on the rear end of the shifter box. Just replacing the top of the shifter does not change the neutral position of the shifter.
The pin does not have to engage the upper part of the shifter... The stock shifter has a slot for the pin to slide up in just to retain it..
You just need to insert the pin into the black plastic housing on the front of the shifter box and into the shaft to lock the shifter in the neutral position,.
The shaft position should only be off if your loosened the coupling to the shaft that goes to the transmission on the rear end of the shifter box. Just replacing the top of the shifter does not change the neutral position of the shifter.
So swapping out the stock for Hurst shouldn't mess with the alignment? So the pin was not needed then.
So swapping out the stock for Hurst shouldn't mess with the alignment? So the pin was not needed then.
Not necessarily, but it's an EXCELLENT time to check the "neutral gate" adjustment. I have a Hurst in my '01, it was the first mod I did to the car, back in '02. I installed the shifter, adjusted the neutral gate first, the gear stops on the shifter body next, and it was great for 11 years. I put a pair of polyurethane bushings in the shifter box housing this year, to replace the somewhat dried out rubber bushings. I rechecked the neutral gate, and put it back together. I may be in a minority, but I've loved the Hurst for the last 12 years....
Not necessarily, but it's an EXCELLENT time to check the "neutral gate" adjustment. I have a Hurst in my '01, it was the first mod I did to the car, back in '02. I installed the shifter, adjusted the neutral gate first, the gear stops on the shifter body next, and it was great for 11 years. I put a pair of polyurethane bushings in the shifter box housing this year, to replace the somewhat dried out rubber bushings. I rechecked the neutral gate, and put it back together. I may be in a minority, but I've loved the Hurst for the last 12 years....
I'll pull it out and test the alignment. Doesn't take that long anyhow.
If your car was shifting alright before you changed shifters, I would not risk adjusting the rod alignment.. From what I have read, the adjustment on the rod to the transmission and where you tighten the bolt in the recess on the rod is extremely sensitive to the alignment. If you are off by just a fraction of an inch, the car may not fully engage all the gears.
You might mess it up by "checking it".
If your car was shifting alright before you changed shifters, I would not risk adjusting the rod alignment.. From what I have read, the adjustment on the rod to the transmission and where you tighten the bolt in the recess on the rod is extremely sensitive to the alignment. If you are off by just a fraction of an inch, the car may not fully engage all the gears.
You might mess it up by "checking it".
So you're giving advice based on what you have read, not actual experience? Just wondering....