Harmonic Balancer how to?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Rio Rancho NM
Harmonic Balancer how to?
I keep reading do not use the ls1.com how to on this as it uses the old bolt to torque to 240lbs and that is supposebly not good. So is there another how to on this?
Also which tool are you guys using to take it out? I went to autozone and they gave me the non claw one and I knew that wouldn't work but the claw was a chrystler one. Also which one for install?
Also which tool are you guys using to take it out? I went to autozone and they gave me the non claw one and I knew that wouldn't work but the claw was a chrystler one. Also which one for install?
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
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From: At the beach in little Rhody
Make a tool for re-installation. As for the tightening sequence, that will depend on whether you plan to use the GM bolt or ARP. Both are done differently. Biggest things to watch are not to press on the old bolt during removal. Rather, remove the bolt and use a socket against the crank snout or I made a thick (1/4") steel washer to prevent thread damage. LS1howto has you use the old bolt. For re-installation, you can make a tool out of threaded rod and some nuts.
Pro
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 621
Likes: 1
From: westland mi
St. Jude Donor '12
I keep reading do not use the ls1.com how to on this as it uses the old bolt to torque to 240lbs and that is supposebly not good. So is there another how to on this?
Also which tool are you guys using to take it out? I went to autozone and they gave me the non claw one and I knew that wouldn't work but the claw was a chrystler one. Also which one for install?
Also which tool are you guys using to take it out? I went to autozone and they gave me the non claw one and I knew that wouldn't work but the claw was a chrystler one. Also which one for install?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 12,413
Likes: 502
From: Rio Rancho NM
Make a tool for re-installation. As for the tightening sequence, that will depend on whether you plan to use the GM bolt or ARP. Both are done differently. Biggest things to watch are not to press on the old bolt during removal. Rather, remove the bolt and use a socket against the crank snout or I made a thick (1/4") steel washer to prevent thread damage. LS1howto has you use the old bolt. For re-installation, you can make a tool out of threaded rod and some nuts.
sweet thanks
Last edited by Chicago1; Aug 19, 2013 at 01:47 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 6,528
Likes: 752
From: South Dakota
I plan on using a arp bolt since I will go back in it to do a cam some day. Can I use the arp to tighten it down like the ls1howto has it with the old bolt and then take it out and do the final torque value then turn 140 degrees or whatever it calls for? I plan on heating the pulley up in teh over and throwing ice on the crank shaft before. So use a socket when the removal tool is butted up against it correct?I have someone coming over to help I was just wondering. Thank you.
The ARP bolt is not the same as the OEM bolt. Torque the ARP bolt to final torque (I think it was 240 or 250 ft.lbs.). The OEM is a torque to yield one time use bolt that is torqued to a value and then turn it an additional number of degrees.
Good luck.
Last edited by QCVette; Aug 19, 2013 at 04:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Rio Rancho NM
No. Don't use the old bolt to draw the balancer on the crank. The problem is that the bolt is not long enough and will engage too few threads before the balancer is seated in place. Having too few threads engaged is what can damage the crankshaft. You need to either use/get the tool, or as vettenuts stated you can make one out of threaded rod and a some nuts (I did too).
The ARP bolt is not the same as the OEM bolt. Torque the ARP bolt to final torque (I think it was 240 or 250 ft.lbs.). The OEM is a torque to yield one time use bolt that is torqued to a value and then turn it an additional number of degrees.
Good luck.
The ARP bolt is not the same as the OEM bolt. Torque the ARP bolt to final torque (I think it was 240 or 250 ft.lbs.). The OEM is a torque to yield one time use bolt that is torqued to a value and then turn it an additional number of degrees.
Good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 22,025
Likes: 192
From: At the beach in little Rhody
Here is the installation procedure and the tool I made. Note that with the ARP bolt, the procedure is followed until the new bolt is installed. Then the final torque value is used rather than a torque and rotation. Also, ARP bolt should be lubricated on the threads, the washer and under the bolt head.
And the tool in use:
And the tool in use:
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Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Rio Rancho NM