DIC shows this message. When I first bought the car in April it was only on one side but now it shows for both sides.
I checked the air and it's at 29psi.

Any ideas?

Also, the a/c blows really cold on the passenger side but soso on the driver side. Soon enough it won't matter but for the next three months it will matter.

Thanks.

 

Are ALL FOUR tire pressure sensors reading on the DIC and are all four reading 29 psi?

If it were me, I would RE-LEARN all four sensors and see if they will learn and report after relearn.

Read the DIC and see if you have any RFA DTCs

Use this procedure

READING YOUR C5 Engine Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC)

This procedure should be carried out any time you experience a problem with your C5. Most inexpensive store bought aftermarket code readers will ONLY read power train DTC’s. Reading the DTC’s with the C5 built in code reader will allow you to read ALL the modules in the vehicle.

The Diagnostic Display Mode is entered with the following procedure:
1) Turn on the ignition but don't start the engine.
2) Press the RESET button to turn off any warning messages. (i.e. door open, trunk open ect)
3) Press and hold the OPTIONS button
4) While holding OPTIONS, press FUEL button four times within a 10 -second period.

Initially, the on-board diagnostics go into an Automatic Mode which will cycle through each module and shows diagnostic codes in a pre-set sequence: PCM - TCS - RTD - BCM - IPC - RADIO - HVAC - LDCM - RDCM - SCM - RFA. All codes will be displayed for each module. ( i.e. PCM = 4 codes) If none are present in a given module, you will see No More Codes on the display.

There are two types of diagnostic codes, Current and History designated with a letter suffix, “C” or “H”. A current code indicates a malfunction is present in the module displaying data. A history code indicates a problem existed sometime in the last 40 or 50 ignition cycles. When not accompanied by a current code of the same number, it's potential evidence of a previous problem, now resolved, that was not removed by clearing the codes. More likely it's an indication of an intermittent malfunction.

Intermittent codes are the most challenging of the diagnostics. An intermittent code may have happened once, may have happened more than once but is inconsistent or may be happening on a regular basis but not at the time the codes are displayed. History codes can also be caused by a current malfunction in a system that is not operating at the time codes are displayed. An example is the rear window defogger which doesn't operate until the Body Control Module detects engine rpm. For history codes set by a module that does not operate with the key on and engine off, a special diagnostic tool called a Scan Tester is necessary to properly diagnose the malfunction.

Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. Clearing a code does not repair a problem. You are simply erasing the evidence of it in the module's memory. If you clear the code/s, and extinguish the Check Engine Light, your emissions status ready will NOT allow you to pass an emissions test until you have completed the required driving cycles. There are a few body module DTC’s that if set will prevent the module from operating properly. Once the DTC is cleared, the module will return to full function. This is not true for power train DTCs.

If you have never read and cleared your codes, there will probably be a lot of old history DTCs. It is recommended that you clear your codes and see if any come back during a driving cycle. Those are the ones that you need to concentrate on diagnosing.

Once you have the codes, the next question is: What to do with the information?
First, consult the factory service manual. Any serious C5 Do-It-Yourself owner should invest in the Corvette Service Manual of the appropriate model year. The Service Manual is really a requirement if you want to understand and work on your C5.

NOTE and a WARNING. You can read the DTCs while the engine is running. I pull mine up all the time while driving.
WARNING. Don’t become distracted while reading DTCs while your driving and cause an accident!!!!! Use common sense and drive safe.

These are some very good C5 Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) explanation web sites!!! They also explain how to read the DTCs

Here are some very good sites that explain what DTC mean:

http://www.gearchatter.com/viewtopic11755.php

http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_cod...d-ii-codes.php

Make sure to include the H or C suffix when you post your DTCs!!

NOTE!!! Start the car and let it idle. Then take it for a drive and cause the problem to occur. When you return home pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine.


Do NOT discount the codes with the H following them. They can provide an audit trail for issues going on with the car. They ARE important in diagnosing problems.

Post ALL the codes that you pull with the engine running..........

Some codes go away WITHOUT setting an H code when you shut the engine off. I suspect you will have several codes that will show C or HC that do NOT show when the engine is turned off.

 

If all four read low on the DIC and all four read 29 with a gauge, I'd try a different gauge first. Put some air in the tires and drive for a few minutes, see if the warning goes away. When the actual pressure gets to 25 the warning will come on and may not go away when you add air until you drive some.

 

Good idea.. Increase the pressure to 32 for a test and see if the low pressure message goes away.

Could be the gage you are using


BC

 

I gave up about the time you wrote this and it was still 96.
I have no shady spot to work on this andsweat is running in my eyes.

I started with the front reading 26 each on the DIC and mother on the rear, LR and RR were blank. This was before I drove out. I kept starting over as I'm new to this. I noticed I was getting the hang of it somewhat.

I only got ten readings: 28 TCS, no codes; 38 RTD, no comm; 40 BCM, no codes; 60 IPC, 1 code; 80 radio, no comm; 90 HVAC, 1 code; AO LDCM 3 codes; AI RDCM, 2 codes; A6 SCM, 1 code; BO RFA, no codes. After that the screen is blank, I'm swimming in sweat and have to go pick up school supplies!

At this point I know I have air in my tires and as long as I'm moving I have air circulating I'm reasonably cool so I'll be closing it up tonight but I'll recheck the air in tomorrow with a different gage.

Thanks for he help.

 

You really need to read the CODES in each module. RDCM 2 codes tells us basically nothing.

Read this part of the procedure that I gave ya.


" Once the system has displayed all modules, it goes into the manual mode which allows selection of each module using combinations of Driver Information Center buttons. Manual mode can also be entered during the automatic sequence by pressing any button except E/M. Once the display shows Manual Diagnostics, select a module by pressing the OPTIONS button to go forward or the TRIP button to go back. Once a module is selected, a code is displayed, and if more than one are present; press GAGES to go forward or FUEL to go back.
To exit the diagnostic mode at any time, press E/M. If you want to erase codes in a given module, press RESET To reset the codes once in manual mode, press and hold RESET until it displays NO CODES Press OPTIONS to go to the next module. Repeat the steps until you have reset the codes in all the computer modules.
NOTE!! Only reset the codes IF you want to - it is NOT necessary to do this. "

 

Thank you Bill. I'm learning to get thehang of this. I'm going to start earlier before it heats up too much.

Would it be better to check things without starting the motor? The car is stored in my warehouse; unfortunately I don't have a ton of room(can only open one door!)but I won't be baking in the sun either.

 

Bill, I got the codes and compared them tothe second Site you gave me but then I saw you said to drive it a bit then pull the codes before shutting off the motor.
That will be later this afternoon.
Thanks.

 

The tire pressure sensors turn on at about 5 mph.

The tires should be at 30 psi. many run higher than that.

Tire gauges are notorious for being sloppy so check with a high quality one instead of a 99 cent version.

 

I checked pressure with my $15 one from OReilly; couldn't find the cheapo. 30#s each. Car sat in hot garage for two hours.

Brief code description to follow.

 

Codes are:
99 HVAC B0361(HC)=left actuator feedback short to GND
B2282(H)=BATT #1 circuit, U1064(H)=lost communication with xxx, U1096(H)=lost communication with xxx
U1064(H)=lost communication with xxx, U1096(H)=lost communication with xxx
B0851(H)=BATT 1 out of range.

I don't see anything that might relate to tires but admittedly I still need to follow up the suggestion to air them upto 32.

 

Well.... according to the DTCs,, You have a power issue and anytime C5 electronics dont have enough power,,, they do some strange things.

Have your battery fully tested and see if it is defective.

If the battery passes, you could have a bad ignition switch

Bill

 

Thanks again Bill.

I think we may have a winner in that this is a very occasional driver.

Will report back.

eta
The car came with a redtop battery of unknown age.