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I'm chasing a few issues that are pointing to the battery... Service Column Lock and my key fobs keep needing to be reprogrammed.
The battery is an Optima red top less than a year old and the car starts right up. Is there an easy way to test the battery before I dive into all the grounds?
Just about any auto parts store, but if she starts right up, there may be other issues. You can try a DVM across the terminals both while running and not. Any codes?
Just about any auto parts store, but if she starts right up, there may be other issues. You can try a DVM across the terminals both while running and not. Any codes?
I'll check the codes again to see. I'm getting service column lock and the fuel cuts off at 3 mph. The key fobs started losing their memory a few days before the column lock.
Car starts right up. It was running just fine when it suddenly did this.
My Dad bought the car new and I bought it from him last Thursday. It has been his daily driver since new and it currently has 91k on it.
The car started doing the key fob thing early last week. He thought it was the key fob battery and changed it but the same thing happened. My brother brought it up to me and on Saturday the Column lock issue started.
Please have the battery tested at the autoparts store.
Have them test the Cold Crank Amps and REASEVE CAPACITY.
Reserve capacity is When you sit in the parking lot listening to the radio for XXX period of time waiting for someone to return from shopping. If you have GOOD reserve capacity, it will crank just fine when your ready to go home.
Bad Reserve capacity is it wont start cause the battery voltage dropped off to 8 VDC when you turn the key!
Once you rule out the battery, I have other things to check.
Certainly you should get it load tested but you can measure the voltage across the battery posts with the neg battery cable disconnected (No Load voltage). If the voltage is 12.5 or less the battery is low. The car will start with 12.2 volts No Load but the electronics in the C5 is NOT happy with voltage that low. Certainly the voltage at 12.5 or less will cause the Column Lock messages to rear their ugly head.
Charge the battery fully. A good battery at full charge will measure 12.7 to 12.9 volts or more. If you can't charge the battery to greater than 12.65, get your Dad to buy a new battery. He sold you a car with a bum battery. I'd never sell my kid a car with a bum battey......
I have all the receipts, including the battery one, so I'm heading back to Autozone today. I disconnected the battery last night and waited an hour and a half to make sure everything reset. Meanwhile I charged the battery. Just using the DIC display it is no where near 12.5. As a shade tree load test, I turned on the headlights for 10 minutes on a timer and it dropped to 11.5.
I took it to autozone and they said the battery was bad. Gave them my receipt for a new one and they informed me I was at the wrong store (receipt was for Advance). Doh! names are too similar.
Take it to Advance and the tester says it is good. However the voltage reads at 12.3 and it needs a charge (just charged it last night and removed it from the car).
So... I think the battery is fried. They asked me to take it to another place they work with that is testing it now. I'll run back over there in a bit to get it and the results which hopefully are I need a new battery. Advance was pretty cool about it to a degree... they put another optima on charge for me to make sure they had one fully ready to go when I get there.
At least my old '66 is getting a workout running all over fixing its much younger brother!