My engine wont start?!?!
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Savannah Ga
My engine wont start?!?!
so I jumped in the car today to go to lunch, cranked it up and moved it, then turned it off to help a friend move the C3 that was blocking me to get out..I have a 1997 C5, when I got back in it, the fuel pump primed and all the dash parts worked except the radio, it said "reduced engine power"
it wont even let me roll my windows up...whats the deal??
my oil life is at 15%, could that be it? I was planning on an oil change this weekend..
I scanend it and it brought up a code for an O2 sensor
what could be the problem??
it wont even let me roll my windows up...whats the deal??
my oil life is at 15%, could that be it? I was planning on an oil change this weekend..
I scanend it and it brought up a code for an O2 sensor
what could be the problem??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Tallahassee fl
It could be a bad battery. I'd check that first. I have been reading a lot on this lately because of my own problems and that seems to be the very first thing to check.
After that... you might have a bad module somewhere. read this thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/c5-tec...r-issue-2.html
After that... you might have a bad module somewhere. read this thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/c5-tec...r-issue-2.html
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Savannah Ga
It could be a bad battery. I'd check that first. I have been reading a lot on this lately because of my own problems and that seems to be the very first thing to check.
After that... you might have a bad module somewhere. read this thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/c5-tec...r-issue-2.html
After that... you might have a bad module somewhere. read this thread. https://www.corvetteforum.com/c5-tec...r-issue-2.html
I was thinking it could possibly be a bad battery too, I unhooked the battery..im gonna try to hook it back up in an hour...
its an optima red top, and a lot if similar issues vis google search results have to do with..you guessed it...optima red top!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,223
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From: Tallahassee fl
Yeah, and guess what I have.... Optima Red top. that is one expensive turd of a battery.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,223
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From: Tallahassee fl
The old red tops seem better. the new ones have issues. I think mine is dead and the one that it replaced was only 4 years old at the most.
The company was sold to Johnson Controls back in 2000. They started moving production from the US to mexico over the years with the final nail in the coffin for the US made products being 2009.
Chances are if you have a good one it was made in America.
The company was sold to Johnson Controls back in 2000. They started moving production from the US to mexico over the years with the final nail in the coffin for the US made products being 2009.
Chances are if you have a good one it was made in America.
Drifting
Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Bahama North Carolina
Low battery usually does not set this code. You need to pull the codes using the dic in the car. Even an expensive scanner will miss many C5 codes. Here is a link that describes how to pull the codes. http://www.stengel.net/diccodes.htm
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Post #3
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Tallahassee fl
Melting Slicks
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Savannah Ga
well what would make them go bad?? and why would my car crank up, then literally 15 seconds after I shut it off, it wouldnt even attempt to crank again??
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Tallahassee fl
read the damn thread i posted earlier. it explains how the different modules of the ecm are in series and when one goes bad the whole thing craps itself. So, a short in say, a power seat, can cause this.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Savannah Ga
well holy sh*t!!! I just went through the DIC and got the codes...there were quite a few...hopefully someone can look at these issues and tell me why it wont crank...im assuming it has something to do with the theft deterrent system? or maybe the key cylinder switch fault??
P1626 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Enable Circuit
U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range
b0856 THIS CODE DID NOT SHOW IN THE DEFINITION LIST
B2606 Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
C2120 TPM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received)
P1626 Theft Deterrent System Fuel Enable Circuit
U1176 Loss of Communications with RFA
U1064 Loss of Communications with BCM
U1160 Loss of Communications with LDCM
B0361 Left Actuator Feedback Short to GND
B0363 Left Actuator Feedback Open
B0441 Left Actuator Out of Range
B2252 Key Cylinder Switch Fault
B2282 Battery #1 Fault
B2284 Battery #2 Fault
B2264 Vertical Position Sensor Fault
B2283 Battery #1 Fault
B2285 Battery #2 Fault
B0851 Battery 1 Out of Range
b0856 THIS CODE DID NOT SHOW IN THE DEFINITION LIST
B2606 Seat Rear Vertical Position Sensor Failure
U1096 Loss of Communications with IPC
C2120 TPM System Malfunction (No Sensors Received)
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Savannah Ga
i have been having some weird issue with my memory seats, they dont go forward all the way to what theyre set to......also I read your thread yesterday before you posted it..it really didnt help me much with figuring out whats wrong with mine..that was the first thing that popped up under google search
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From: Savannah Ga
vetteLT193, I pulled this from the other thread you linked me to and im not quite sure what theyre talking about..I looked under the passengers footwell and removed a panel and still dont think I saw what they were talking about..
My other recommendation (other than the door accordion) is to remove the shorting bar from the serial bus connectors located under the BCM. Under the passenger footwell, you'll find a shiny computer (BCM); under that, you'll find two connectors that are kind of clipped on to the BCM support. Unclip them, and you'll see one has many wires going into it and one has fewer (four?) going into it. This is where all the serial bus connections in the car meet.
If you remove the end of the connector with fewer wires, you remove the door modules and the seat control module (the most common problem areas for electrical issues) from the serial bus. If those are shorted, after you remove the end of the connector, you should start seeing communication restored between all devices except RDCM, LDCM and SCM. At that point you have a much simpler time determining which of the three modules it is.
If you remove the end of the connector with fewer wires, you remove the door modules and the seat control module (the most common problem areas for electrical issues) from the serial bus. If those are shorted, after you remove the end of the connector, you should start seeing communication restored between all devices except RDCM, LDCM and SCM. At that point you have a much simpler time determining which of the three modules it is.
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Joined: Jul 2013
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From: Savannah Ga
I also pulled this from the other thread
what is the STAR connector?? and how do I pull it?
OK - just to keep this up to date.
Having pulled the STAR connector
The car starts fine - no dash errors. No service soon, reduced power etc
The DTC's stored show these
Having pulled the STAR connector
The car starts fine - no dash errors. No service soon, reduced power etc
The DTC's stored show these
what is the STAR connector?? and how do I pull it?