The short-throw in my 2000 coupe must go. I'll blame my wife for not having the strength to shift. There's too much centering force needed to shift. you need Herculean strength to shift right to left. So, what to do? I don't know which type of shifter is installed now. I'm considering a stock C6 shifter. Is this a difficult replacement? I've looked at loads of threads and DIY's but I'm still perplexed. Help. Thanks

 

Depending on the brand of shifter you may be able to remove the centering springs,making for an easier shift.If you decide to replace it,it's a very simple job.Takes less than 1 hour to swap them out!

 

So if the springs can be removed that will ease the force needed to shift? If not, I'll need a new shift kit? Is the receiving platform (where the shifter mounts) the same for all shifters? I've seen video's that show other components being changed under the shifter. Can you recommend which part I'll need? I'm not sure what to purchase and where to get it. Thanks for your response.

 

Hurst short throw shifters come with different bias springs, in regards to tension.

Even if you take the springs completely out, the force to shift this short throw shifter isn't for the wife.

I suggest going with a C/6 shifter & C/6 shifter box.
I would also get one that allows you to use the C/5 *****.

I've had good experience with this unit from RSD. (See link below)

http://www.racespecialtydesigns.com/...?productid=113

 

The springs control the left-to-right stiffness.The fore and aft stiffness is controlled by a detent in the transmission.The anti-venom mod will alleviate the fore and aft stiffness.I ended up using the C-6 setup after several attempts with different shifters.Short-throw shifters are always going to be stiffer than stock.Shorter throw = less leverage!

 

How do you know it even has springs if you don't know what brand shifter you have?
The Hurst billet shifter looks like this...



I like the retro look, so I just removed the Hurst billet shifter, and replaced it with the old school chrome stick with a custom base that is not spring loaded... It has the same throw as the short shifter, and the factory C6 shifter, and no spring loading...



As long as the current shifter is working, do not remove the base. Just remove the 4 bolts that hold the top of the shifter to the base and pull it out..

 

If you want to reduce the effort to shift for the benefit of the wife, why not just put a stock C5 shifter back in the car? I would think a used one would not be hard to find. This is a longer throw (offering more leverage) than even a stock C6 shifter.

If you still have the stock box that the shifter mounts to, you might want to consider putting new mounting bushings on it as these get brittle and break up after a while due to the heat in the vicinity of the tunnel - easy to replace while you're in there - and if the bushings really are messed up, it could be part of your current problem as these would be most stressed and sloppy during the side-to-side movement through the neutral gate.

Check out the MGW site for instructions on how to install their shifter - you could use it to see if yours is an MGW unit, plus it has very good video and guidance on how to get to a shifter swap done.

 

My problem is too much side to side effort is needed. The fore and aft is stiff but manageable. I plan to remove the console and remedy the issue. That stated, I have no idea if the shifter has springs. Can I simply install a stock C5/C6 shifter and mount it to the base? Is this a bolt-in without any other parts needed? Is it necessary to replace the mounting bushings and where are they located? Any recommendations on where to purchase a stock shifter? Thanks for your comments and advice.

 

There's been some good advice given here, first thing you should do is remove your shift boot, and see what you have.

 

Based on the advice given I have an idea of what to do. Assume the current shifter is removed and replaced - what I'd like to know is does a stock shifter bolt-in (do you take the old one out and slide the new one in)? I can handle most topical repairs/replacements but want to avoid starting a project and then have to take the car to a mechanic. For that reason I want to know what I'm going to encounter before I take things apart. Sorry for the redundant inquires. Any recommendation on where to purchase a new stock shifter?

 

Yes, the installation of an OE shifter is a simple "R&R". HOWEVER, before you spend any unnecessary money, it would be wise to determine what you currently have. As mentioned, if you have a Hurst, it CAN be adjusted to a point where the shifts are pretty much effortless....

 

dboldt - did you look at the MGW site and their video on C5 shifter replacement? Even though your current aftermarket shifter may not be a MGW, this is still a really good video and will show you what the components are and how to remove them. In short, if your current after-market shifter bolts into the FACTORY shifter box, then yes, all you will need to do is remove the 4 10mm bolts out of the shifter and pull the shifter up out of the factory box and drop in a stock shifter(this is after you remove the center console, boot, and rubber tunnel shield, all shown on the video and it's easy to do). If after looking at this video, you decide it is too much for you to handle personally, then yes by all means take it to a Vette shop and they should be all too familiar with the issue.

The rubber bushings are on the shifter box (the thing the shifter bolts into). There are two of them and they isolate the shift box from vibrations that come off the tunnel. Because of the heat from the tunnel, they become brittle and sometime just disintegrate, leaving some slop in the shift box and by extension the shifter itself. This is why I suggested looking at those bushings, because if they are sloppy or missing, it is going to make the left-right side-to-side movements in the neutral gate hard to get them to go where you want because the box will have a small amount of rocking left and right while you are also moving the shifter left and right. If the bushings are worn, you can easily remove the shift box and pop out the old bushings, put the new in and re-install the box. I've seen some guys do this without removing the shift rod that runs from the tranny to the shifter box.

Also, don't forget to re-align the shifter before you close it all up, again simple to do. Every time I have my shifter out, I slather some grease in the pivot points to keep it smooth.

Look in the parts forum for a shifter. I have two stock C5 shifters and I'd be willing to let one go if you can't find one.

 

Thank you for your detailed instructions. I have looked at the MGW vid's, more times than I care to mention. Because of reduced vision it's tough for me to see smaller objects, especially in confined spaces. Therefore, it helps me to have a good idea what I'm looking for before I start. I will definitely give it a try. Thanks again!

 

Thanks

 

If it's just your wife that's complaining, she could just grip the **** at a different position. If you grip it from the right side (sticking the elbow out a bit) for going into 1st/2nd and from the left side (wrist and hand twisted 90 deg CCW from neutral) for going into 5th/6th/reverse, you use a more dominant muscle group and it's significantly easier to fight the centering force.

I've gotten use to my MGW, but anyone who drives my car and holds the **** like you typically would, either with a top grip, like it's a ball, or a joystick type grip, starts bitching about the weight. If I've just been working out my arms alot, I'll sometimes use a different grip to make it easier.

 

Do a search for the anti-venom mod. $2 and 15 minutes may solve the issue.

 

You can always remove the shifter springs and get a taller style shift ****. That would put it at about the stock shifter handle height.

Stock shifter on a stock ZO6 lower box:





Stock shifter:






Taller **** on a KIRBAN Shifter:





KIRBAN vs STOCK shifter handle:





Neutral zero pin inserted in shifter base:





Removing the DEMOND Key:





DEMON Wedge out of the shift **** so you can unserew it:

 

Great pic's....appreciate your feedback.